Paul5801

Hopefully I am not highjacking this thread.  Seemed an appropriate thread to discuss booster questions.  My booster passes standard checks while in the car (1976 standard 2002).  The pedal depresses when starting the car with my foot on the pedal and the pedal is not hard.  It also holds vacuum when tested with a vacuum pump without pressing the brake.  Since installing an AFR gauge I noticed that when pressing the pedal the AFR remains steady.  However, when lifting my foot off the pedal, AFR goes lean ( ~13 then jumps to ~16 ) then quickly recovers.  I also occasionally hear a slight engine stumble when it goes lean. Is this expected behavior that I never noticed before having the AFR?   

I just asked the same thing after purchasing the same panels.

Thanks, John!  That helps.

Anyone have a picture of the attachment of these 2 under dash trim panels? The car didn’t have them and I just got some new ones. The picture attached doesn't make it clear where these fit with the AC console and glovebox.  I also don’t see where the attachment points are under my 76.  I am sure I am missing something simple. Thanks!

Finished reinstalling the center console after the carpet install. I designed a cup holder based on a design I saw on eBay.  I needed it large enough to hold my large Yeti cup. It works surprisingly well. There is just enough flex in the plastic to allow the cup to sit on the carpet while being held tight in the holder. 
 

Looking for a Behr console face in decent condition. Let me know if you have one.  Thanks!

With the carpets done, I was able to turn my focus to the unneeded extra heat from the heater box flaps.  I wasn’t ready to rebuild the heater box.  I tried to place strips of 1/4” EDPM foam around the inside opening of the box. But, that proved to be a PITA with the box still installed and it created larger gaps if I wasn’t really precise.  Instead I glued the foam to the heater flaps. Seems to have worked out great. Time will tell on the durability. But, hopefully by then I’ll feel like rebuilding the whole box.

Before:

After:

Last night was the culmination of seven months of work replacing the drivers side front floor, fixing PO's crappy speaker cut outs, rebuilding the pedal box, removing tar, removing paint, painting, sound deadening, and installing Esty's awesome carpet.  Still small touch ups and the center console/AC to tackle.  

Photo dump of the progress:

Where it started

Rusted out floor and a bit of the rocker

Removing tar with the last bits of dry ice

Down to clean metal in most places

POR-15 3/4 done

Driver's side floor removed.  Went a little too far with the spot weld drill on a couple.

New floor welded in 

Second skin installed through out

After second skin was ensolite(EPDM foam).

Then the awesome carpets from Esty

I have been installing Damplifier from Second Skin in the ridiculously hot garage.  I have installed it on the floors, firewall, and behind the rear seat vertical-ish section.  The heat has not affected it at all.  It did not turn gooey or  really any noticeable difference.  I would have no problem installing that on the roof.  But, I have not gotten to that project yet.  They also make a spray-on version as well.

Damplifier™ Sound Deadening Mat - Second Skin Audio

WWW.SECONDSKINAUDIO.COM

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Check out the Damplifier product from Second Skin Audio - the best lightweight option for vibration damping and noise reduction in your vehicle.

As a point of reference, my garage door in Texas with direct sun hits ~137F.    

Finished patching the rust holes in my pedal box, cleaned, and metal prepped the box. After 3 coats of POR-15 it doesn't look half bad.  Only my third attempt at welding.  Having a welder has opened up so many more options to fix things.  Just practicing on the non-visible stuff before getting to the larger harder parts.

Tack welded into place

Ground down and almost complete

POR metal etch/prep

Brushed on 3 thin coats of POR-15

Started repairing a few rust holes in my pedal box.  It went smoother than I had expected.  I still have one more hole to repair which should be a little easier than this one. The shape of this patch took sometime to get right.

Cut and bent into shape

Tacked into place

Ground down and almost invisible.  Still need a little touchup grinding before paint.

Take a look at the door brake/check.  The little strap that keeps the door from swinging out too far.  That can break and rattle making the sound you are describing.

Starting my first attempt at metal fabrication and welding to fix PO’s previous sins. Figured I should learn on the parts covered by carpet.

Started with a hammer form to create the bead. 
 

lots of hammering later I had the beginning of something.

fitted up quite well. Hopefully, I’ll get to welding it in tomorrow.

Thanks, @visionaut  That is kinda what I figured. Is there a panel bonding adhesive that is more fluid then the rest?  Seems like 3M and SEM are the ones I have found and there are variations of each.  Is one more fluid to drip behind the panel?  

Since the panel is partially separated, I would imagine it is best to remove the whole panel?  Or can I just squeeze panel bonding epoxy behind and use @visionaut method to clamp it?  If I do need to remove the whole panel, is there any trick to removing the panel without ruining the outer body panel?

Thanks, @stephers!  That "snot" is body filler from the PO's attempt at filling in the waist trim holes when he decided to do the worst body and paint job.  I am cleaning this thing up slowly but surely.  The old sound deadening is all coming off and I have some rust to patch.

I began to remove the interior of my 1976 02.  Aside from finding the usual rust in the driver's side floor pan, I found that the reinforcement panel behind the rear interior panels has lifted off.  It took the sound deadening with it.  What is the best approach to getting this reattached without introducing a rust pocket.  I don't see any obvious rust behind it and the exterior panel doesn't show any obvious issues.  Would POR-15 seam and seal be good enough to reattach it? Thanks!

Paul

Are these still available?

It is the discharge valve. 

Fuel pump stopped working on my 1976.  I ordered a new one last week. USPS decided to send it back to the sender. While I wait for the new pump, I decided to take the old pump apart and see what went wrong.  There were 4 pieces loose in the pump. It seems like an easy fix if I can figure out the order to put the parts back in.  Anyone have an idea of the order? Thanks for the help

Thanks! But, it is actually unavailable on his site. 

Let me know if you have one available in good condition.  Thanks!

Do you have a dome light for a 1976?