Dominic Germana

Thanks for the suggestion Rob.  I actually figured out the strange intermittent fuse problem today.  The wiring diagram was invaluable in tracking it down.  It turned out that the hot terminal of the reverse light switch was unplugged, and when it bounced around and touched the transmission case it would short to ground.  I squeezed the terminal so it has a nice tight fit, popped it back on, problem solved!

There is still have one strange behavior with the turn signals.  With fuse 12 back in business, the blinkers work, however, the parking lights turn on (solid, not flashing) whenever the blinkers are activated...  Also, the dash indicator light only flashes once instead of continuously with the blinkers.

Thank you so much, the file looks great!

On 11/18/2020 at 8:09 AM, AustrianVespaGuy said:

I swear I post this weekly and need to figure out how to sticky it or something, but no matter.  The BEST place for the exact, correct diagrams for each individual model year is here:

http://www.2002tii.org/kb/246

Find the one under which your model/region/trim/variant falls and download it.  When you open the downloaded pdf in a real pdf viewer (not just in the browser), you'll see that they have bookmarks for identifying all of the numbered components.  They are all B&W though, so you need to make sure to read them carefully.

 

For Squaries, there's a nice color one available here, but it's a bit 'generic' and is missing many things like the emissions junk that changed some from year to year:

https://www.bmw2002faq.com/articles/technical-articles/electrical-and-ignition/2002-wiring-diagram-color-coded-r289/

 

Prospero's Garage sells *some* nice color diagrams as well, but I don't think they cover quite all of the models.  Might be worth checking out though if you're really after a colored one:

https://colorwiringdiagrams.com/t/1600--2002

 

For those specific ones mentioned thusfar in this thread:

USA '72 tii is here: http://www.2002tii.org/diagrams/bmw2002tii-usa-mod71.pdf

USA '68 1600 6V here: http://www.2002tii.org/diagrams/bmw1600-2.pdf

or 12V here: http://www.2002tii.org/diagrams/bmw1600-2-12v-usa.pdf

USA '76 here: http://www.2002tii.org/diagrams/bmw2002-usa-1976.pdf

Unfortunately, all the 2002tii.org links are resulting in 404 Page Not Found errors right now.  Is anyone aware of another source to download the wiring diagrams?  Right now I'm trying to diagnose some electrical issues on a 72 carbureted car (built 9/15/71) - fuse 12 keeps blowing, giving us no brake lights, and we're having blinker issues too.  Thanks!

I ordered from RockAuto just after @URO Parts Support posted that the new parts were available, and it looks like I received a new design right side (manufacturing code 7956) but an old design left side (code 7457).

I could probably do a return with RockAuto, but I think I would need to pay for shipping both ways.  Has the shipping charge from the Uro Parts replacement approach been inexpensive?

PM sent about the IE front sway bar. I'm very interested in buying it from you or whoever buys the whole lot.

Thanks!

I'll take it. Please PM your PayPal address to me. Thanks!

Hi, I assume this is sold, correct?  If you still have it, I'm interested.

Thanks,

Dominic

5 hours ago, Dusty02 said:

Got the rear seat out. Pretty sure it wont be going back in.
 

1

Wow, that was quite a mouse house!  Glad you found the source of the smell.  Where are you located?  If you decide not to reuse the rear seat, I'm in need of 02 rear seat frames - I have decent upholstery, but it's mounted on e21 frames that doesn't fit quite right.  I'm located in NC.  Good luck with your project!

Thanks for the link Tom! That website has so many tempting goodies for sale!

Thank you for the warm welcome everyone!

19 hours ago, Conserv said:

That doesn’t look like an ‘02 seat to me.  Here is the rear seat from my ‘76.  The ‘75 and ‘76 front and rear seats are identical. Your rear seat, whatever it is from, appears to have been recovered.

1

Thank you so much Steve!  The photos were super helpful in confirming that my seats are definitely not 02 seats, and to show how real 02 seats are supposed to be mounted.  If anyone has a lead on 02 rear seats I would love to pick up a set.

12 hours ago, worzella said:

Hi Dominic. Randy here from Raleigh. Engineer?  Work out in RTP maybe?

 

Anyway I have a ‘75 that has just gotten on the road this spring after 9 yr resto. Runs pretty well and I would be glad to meet up for some comparison

 

I am no expert but have tons of notes and learned ALOT along the way

 

I think I met Dan at a car show a few weeks ago but he had his other car at this show so have not met the 02 yet

 

Randy

2

Hey Randy, I would love to get together sometime.  Where in Raleigh are you located?  I'm in southern Durham, pretty close to Southpoint.  Dan lives in North Raleigh and he has a beautiful e30 convertible that he may have been driving when you met him.  I do often work with clients in RTP, but mostly I get to work at home.  I started a product development consultancy called Impact Embedded about 6 years ago and I help startups and other companies create new devices by developing custom circuit boards, software applications, etc.

8 hours ago, AustrianVespaGuy said:

Those certainly look just like the E21 rear seats that I have in my car.  So yes they should fit, but it's true that the seat back is tight and a bit difficult to get all the way down.  Just make sure it's over the upper clips and then screw in the bottom brackets to the floor, albeit probably in slightly different locations than where the 2002 screwed into.  The bottom seat should have some springy clips on the lower leading edge that clip into the lip of the kick panel, but I'm worried that I can't seem to see those in your picture, so if they're absent, the bottom might not work very well. . .

 

Oh, and since you have those twins, I recommend you get in touch with @bluedevils here on the FAQ (also in NC, by the way) and have him help get you set up with some proper 3-point shoulder belts for the rear seats so that they can ride along with you in the Appalachian twisties too!

1

I would love to see some photos of your E21 seats mounted in your car.  I am indeed planning to install 3-point belts in the rear, so today I removed the stock lap belt retractors.  With those out of the way, the rear seat bottom actually fits quite nicely, but unfortunately, it's evident that somebody ground off the clips that you mentioned.  Also, the upper section of the seat still seems way too tall and a little wide.  I can jam it back into position above the seat bottom where it fits pretty snugly, but I can't get it low enough to slide onto the seat-back clips unless the seat bottom is removed...

5 hours ago, NYTransplant said:

Nice garage & E30 BTW.

 

Tim

 

Thanks Tim!  I've put a lot of work into my garage and it has shaped up to be a pretty sweet place to work on the cars.  It's just a 2 car garage, but I can now fit 4 cars.  I installed the 2-post Mohawk lift about 8 years ago and the 4-post Bendpak is a new addition as of a couple months ago.  It's so convenient to be able to just drive on and raise the car.  I've had my e30 M3 for 12 years - thankfully I picked it up before the pricing went crazy!  It is such a fun car on the track.  I'll be instructing with Tarheel Chapter at VIR at the end of September if anyone wants to come up and ride along! 

4 hours ago, mike said:

It's actually better to put the fuel filter upstream from the pump, to prevent crap from getting into the pump as well as the carb.  Just place the filter so it doesn't touch the cylinder head or manifold to prevent vapor lock.  Clamp all those hoses, and any you find with woven cloth covers, (including back by the gas tank) pitch 'em and replace with US style rubber fuel hose.  Unbeknownst to you, those old hoses can crack underneath the cloth and leak both air and fuel, neither of which is a Good Thing.

 

And welcome to the 02 fraternity/sorority.  I was just in Durham on Sunday (ate at the Page Grill) on our way home from the Outer Banks.  Great place to live--went to school there a half century or so ago...

 

mike

Thanks so much for chiming in Mike.  I was wondering what to do about those cloth-covered hoses, thanks for the encouragement to replace them! I've met you a few times at The Vintage and Ofest (assuming this is Mike Self) and always admired your 02 enthusiasm.  Feel free to drop a line next time you're in town to visit the alma mater!

4 hours ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

Definitely remove the red tube.  That is essentially a vacuum leak.

 

I run the distributor's advance pod off of the ported vacuum nipple at the base of the carb on the passenger's side (above the one with the red tube connected) and cap all the rest of them, as suggested.

 

I am not sure what the diverter needs for a vacuum source, but have read a bit about it in the archives.  My car did not come with one, but I believe they are helpful, in that they allow the pressure to bleed back to the tank when the engine is shut off.  Member John76 has offered a lot of good information on the topic, since his car retains the emissions package.

 

To clarify, the dual pod on your distributor has advance on the front and retard on the back.  +1 for using advance and leaving the retard nipple open.

 

Nice photos.  Keep them coming!  Welcome : )

Tom

3

I couldn't imagine why someone would introduce a vacuum leak by connecting the red hose that way.  I figured you guys would let me know if there was some 02 magic that made a connection like that a good idea.  I'll definitely cap it and seal the hole in the vent hose.  In terms of ported vs manifold vacuum, reading this post made me think it would be better to use manifold vacuum for distributor advance, but perhaps the stock distributor is set up to use only ported vacuum...?  I think you're saying that the port on the dual pod facing the distributor body is for advance, and the hose the plugs in from the bottom is for retard, but I can double check my understanding by watching the rotor spin while sucking on the hoses I suppose.

4 hours ago, Mark92131 said:

Welcome Dominic.  Having desmogged a number of 75's in CA, I put together a list of things to remove/consider to completely remove these components.  You may find it useful as you get this sorted out.  One thing I did notice from your pictures above was the red manifold vacuum line at the base of your carb was plumbed to your valve cover breather hose.  I would cap this one and uncap the vacuum connection above it on the carb and use it to run a vacuum line to the advance side of your distributor pod, and cap the retard side.  Here's that list...

2

Thank you very much for the detailed list Mark!  I'll go through and make sure everything has been completed.  A lot of the smog stuff has been taken out already, but there's definitely still at least some wiring remaining.  From your list, it sounds like the fuel return valve was smog related and isn't beneficial?

Thank you all again so much!

Dominic

Hello everyone!  About a week ago I bought a 1975 2002 which will be a rolling project.  Since then I've been devouring content from this site - you guys are amazing!  I would like to introduce myself, and I'm looking forward to meeting many of you in person someday.  I have a few questions now and I'm sure I'll have many more in the future.

My name is Dominic and I live in Durham, NC.  I'm an engineer and I love learning about and building new things.  I've been a BMWCCA member for about 18 years and I have attended The Vintage for most of the last 8 years (where hopefully I will make more face-to-face 02 owner connections in the future).  I have always admired the 02 and I'm so excited to finally own one.  I want to give a huge thank you to my friend Dan Rosado in Raleigh who took me out for a really fun ride in his 02 as I was contemplating my purchase. The ride confirmed that, yes, 2002s really do live up to high expectations for driving fun!  My folks moved from NH down to NC after my 8 year old twin boys were born, so my car-guy dad and hopefully my sons will be helping a lot with the project and enjoying rides to events as well.

Here's a photo of my new car.  My plan is not to fully strip it down and restore it (I've been down that long road before), but to refurbish the mechanicals, spruce up the interior, and let it be a decent looking, really great driving car.  The 02 will be replacing a 1968 Mustang that I purchased in high school, drove for a couple years, and then tore down in 2002 for a complete restoration.  I replaced almost all the sheet metal on that car, top and bottom (it was a very rusty NH car) before I moved down to NC, but once I got down here I became more involved in track events with the BMW club and the Mustang was mostly ignored, so it's still in primer.  Whenever I do work on the Mustang these days, I'm always wishing that I was working on a 2002 instead, so now I'll finally be putting my efforts into the right car!

As for my first couple of questions, I would love some interior and engine info.  The rear seat in my car doesn't seem to fit into place.  The rear corners of the bottom cushion run into the seatbelt retractors, so the cushion can't be pushed all the way back and down.  The front edge sticks out several inches from the carpet bulkhead, and there's no mating features between the bulkhead and the seat as far as I can tell.  The upper cushion seems to be tool tall to fit all the way down into place on the hooks, and maybe too wide also.  I suspect that perhaps the rear seats came from an e21 since the upholstery matches the front seats, and both front and rear are a slightly lighter shade of tan vs the door panels. Can anyone confirm whether these are e21 seats?  I've read threads stating that e21s can sort of be made to fit, and that's the situation I seem to have. The rear seat upholstery also has 7 pleats per side vs. the 8 pleats that I think is correct for later 02s.  Here are some photos of the rear seats:

The more important issue is that the car idles pretty rough and doesn't run very smooth.  The car has a recently rebuilt distributor, new coil, plugs, plug wires, and fuel filter.  However, I think some of the vacuum connections look messed up.  The car is a 1975, but it appears to have had all the smog stuff (EGR, air pump, etc) removed.  The distributor is part number 0 231 176 084, which has both vacuum advance and vacuum retard connections.  I have inserted some photos below showing the engine compartment with closeups on a few of the connections that I'm concerned about. 

1) First, there's a vacuum line connected from the side of the carb (Weber 32/36 DGAV) facing towards the rear of the car (near label "26") which connects to the vacuum portion of the distributor that is furthest away from the distributor body (I haven't checked yet to determine which side is advance vs retard).  This seems strange because I haven't seen anybody recommend connecting a vacuum line to the rear-facing side of the carburetor in the threads I've been reading through. 

2) The port on the vacuum mechanism that is closest to the distributor body is connected with a vacuum line that tees in to intake manifold #1, towards the front of the car, shared with a vacuum line that goes to the fuel return valve.  This seems like it might be a correct connection, assuming that is the vacuum advance port to the distributor, but I'm not sure.

3) A really weird connection that I'm concerned about is a red vacuum line that connects to the manifold just underneath the carb, which then goes over and is inserted into the valve cover breather hose...

4) There are two carburetor ports just above that red vacuum line connection (on the passenger face of the carb, below the water choke) which are capped off.

Based on this post (https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/67452-weber-3236-smog-legal-vacuum-diagrams/?do=findComment&comment=465166) I'm planning to cap off the manifold port that currently has the red hose attached, seal off the hole in the valve cover breather hose, connect the vacuum advance to the fuel return T hose, cap off the #26 port at the carb, and leave the vacuum retard port open at the distributor.  Does that sound right?  I will also check the points and the spark plug gaps and set the timing.  I'm hoping that these changes will dramatically improve the running condition of the engine.

Well, I think that's enough for tonight.  Thank you for all your help and the incredible wealth of information on this site!

Dominic