IdaBimmer

I'm not sure if this will help or if it has anything to do with your problem but I thought I would throw something at you. I had a fuel leak recently on mine and during my investigation I reached in the trunk and felt a sponge of fuel on the top-right corner carpet where the tank is set inside the trunk. You could feel the fuel in the carpet. You may want to check for that too. If I filled the car over 3 gallons it would drip onto the ground on the right rear. I had the fuel tank pulled, drained, washed and then later pressure tested for leaks. There was a hairline crack in the tank making the fumes and odor unbearable inside the car not to mention the puddle in the garage. It was re-welded, re-pressure tested, undercoated and new seals added where tanks is bolted in. All problems have been solved. ***I did not find a leak under 3 gallons as I siphoned most of the full tank out. This is what guided me to the assumption (proved to be spot on) that it was the tank itself. A good friend/bimmer builder is working on a prototype - all aluminum tank that will be available soon. He's ironing out the exact fitment for the tank, the filler neck, and the sending unit at this time. I'm not sure of the price point and date of production but I'm sure if made here they won't be cheap. 1972 Tanks - 41 L are NLA and all that is left after recent searching is the 51L and I think that might call for body work to make it fit however I could be wrong and those are about $1,200 from Germany. I am opting for future purchase of the aluminum tank and I'll store it up until my original totally poops the bed!

Thanks to any all who have replied. I appreciate you!

Mike, Indeed. Your instruction very much got me back on track. During the build, there were two different bulb holders (brackets) used and the wires WERE CROSSED! The light worked but the blinker was overpowered by the crossing of the wires not to mention the wire colors were different from left to right turn lights as I took the other one apart to inspect/compare. Probably different model years and bmw changing the colors? That confused me a bit but one was "striped" on each side which clued me in. I noticed the ground on the wrong side, swapped wires and voila! Cheers to any and all who helped out! I am very grateful!

Thanks for all your responses. JimK, you say ditch the old mount. Any suggestions? I've seen a few today while searching the interweb but I'm curious to what you may have done.

I did read about that and I'll take that into consideration (re: conversion). Not too many of these cars here to ask a friend but I did order a new flasher this afternoon. Spendy little buggers. It's odd how it cancels the blinker with the headlights on but I'll give it a try. Thanks much for your reply.

2002 base 1972. All lights and blinkers seem to work and blinkers work fine during daytime operation. The left front (drivers side) turn signal remains solid when the headlights are turned on. As soon as the headlights are turned off the blinker resumes. All others that surround the car work fine with headlights on. Grounds have been checked repeatedly and should be fine. I'm at the end of my rope regarding the left front only working when the headlights are off. The flasher, albeit old, continues to operate as normal but the left front simply does not blink with the headlights on. Any ideas? Any and all input would be greatly appreciated.

Need proper torque for motor mount bolts located - drivers side, below starter, connecting bow to engine block. Two bolts approx. 1" in length. Can't seem to find this in my tech manual. Maybe easy to some of you but I'm a newb on this motor. M10 stroker 1972 Base. Can be seen with one missing bolt in center of photo 1 and second for clarity. Thank you in advance!

"You can please some of the people some of the time but not all of the people all of the time" The earlier peanut gallery was quite interesting to say the least. It's not my car and I certainly would have done certain things differently however I am sure the owner took great pride, time and effort into the build regardless to whether I like every modification on it. I have personalized my own car and I respect the same of other people's. There are obvious differences of opinions. Opinions are like rear bumpers and most everyone has one. If every bumper was the same, life would be quite boring I think.....

Ultrabox Japan check it out on YouTube and many other sources.. Neat car!

I agree 100% but I must say I had to view several posts to gather enough data to accomplish this. Hence the reason I posted a HOW TO with pics.Thanks so much!

I'm not sure if that will do it or not but I'd be interested to hear back from you. I must say when I first got involved it seemed daunting but it was extremely easy to accomplish after all said and done.

FIRST OFF, THANK YOU ALL FOR THE GREAT FEEDBACK! Here's what I did after reading many of the great responses and other posts. On the rear of the instrument panel, behind the Fuel and Temperature gauges there are two lugs that have slotted screws (fig 1a). I created two, relatively short (perhaps 14 inches)16 AWG ground wires and connectors. I attached the newly created ground wires to the two slotted screws behind the fuel and temperature gauges (fig 1a2). I then tacked the two newly created ground wires to the dashboard frame via a single sheet metal screw. This frame is also connected to the firewall and chassis providing a decent ground. I later added two quick connect/disconnect points in the middle of each ground wire to allow for ease of removal and twist-tied the cables together for cleanliness. If I ever need to pull the instrument cluster out again it will be that much easier. What happened next was miraculous. Not only did it remedy the gauge fluctuation, the idiot lights are brighter and the gauges read more accurately!!!! The tachometer also has a ground connector which I could piggyback from to create an additional ground (brown wire marked with ground symbol on the back of the tach) but I had no need to do this just yet as it functions properly. The entire process could have taken 30 minutes to an hour - less the trip to local hardware store. There are two thumb screws that hold the cluster in place plus the speedometer cable and all three were easily removed and reconnected upon completion. Once those are removed, ease out the panel and removed the wiring harness plug. This is easily removed and reinserted as there is only one way to install it with the half-moon shaped hole (can be seen in photo 2 with all the pins) Enclosed, you will find photos that may help others with the same troubles. THANK YOU ALL!

I'm about to head to the Boise Roadster Show where Chip Foose will make an appearance as well. https://firebirdonline.com/events/46th-boise-roadster-show/ I'll try the jumper. If I jump this and test the battery for charge with my alt tester, should it then appear normal then telling me that the regulator is bad?

It is not. Only briefly at start. I need to get the Hanes. I have the Chilton's Manual. Is the Hanes more in depth. It appears so.

Does anyone know the factory correct output voltage reading on the original voltage regulator of my 1972 as well as the colors of wires that provide input, output and ground? I have since checked, tightened, dialectic greased all grounds but I am getting zero from alternator charging back to the battery. Two tests performed by myself and NAPA claim the the alternator is bad OR obviously not getting charge back. Although I might have a bad alternator I believe it would also be affected by a bad voltage regulator(?) and the one I currently have looks original from 1972.... I have since ordered one before I venture off to removing the alternator and having it tested. Out of curiosity I am wondering if anyone knows this to allow me to test it at the regulator with my volt meter.

I have since tested the alternator with my tester and at NAPA and I am not getting proper charging during normal idol. Would the voltage regulator be a good starting point? AND yes, I checked - loosened and re-tightened the grounds. Thanks in advance, I think I am getting closer!

I have since checked the grounds. They appear ok. Would the alternator affect them as well?

Both fuel and temperature gauges seem to want to fluctuate and jump around. Temp gauge randomly locks in overheat (red) location then jumps around. Happens during higher RPM's and bumps while driving seems to remedy it at times to the point it seems to relax in a normal position. I have read a few other posts but not sure if what was in the posts can help so I started new. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 1972 - 2002 Base... Best Regards, Paul