slowpoke

What would be the compression ratio?

If i was going to keep my car I’d consider it. How are they different from the....   e21 longer control arms?  That’s what i was looking at.  Can you use stock fenders?  I was hoping to get the additional camber without cutting.. I’d accept some interior fender rollling though.

As for your FEA you may not be using the right constraints.  You’ve got a fixed support on the bearing surface and i think that would apply if the bearing were infinitely stiff and the hub was welded to the bearing, neither of which are true.  For example, if there is a load into the page on the top and out of the page at the bottom of the hub face, then the face will tilt and the bearing surface will deform like an oval.  That absolutely happens or hubs would never crack.  You could try some runs at those conditions.

Also, this is aluminum and therefore can’t be designed for infinite life, so do you have life calcs to know how many cycles these hubs should last before they fatigue fail.  can you convert cycles into miles? 

Just some thoughts.  good luck, and we’re all hoping you’re successful.  At least i am.

Cyrus,

I'm with irdave on this one.  In fields where rigorous engineering is required there's LOTS of design reviews.  And the reviews focus on risk, forces, factors of safety, life time, etc. etc. etc...  The BEST engineers are very willing to put all their calculations, testing up for review and peer evaluation.  They know a review is a critique of the design and not a critique of their own engineering capability, experience, etc.  It is merely that, a critique choices and analysis that led to a specific design.  Remember, all design is inherently a series of compromises around a set of constraints ideally optimizing along one vector...  a review of the constraints, compromises and your optimization vector is always worthwhile, especially if its done by a knowledge peer group.  it appears that this forum has a number of knowledge folks that can (and have) been critiquing your design.  I urge you to thank them for the effort they've applied.   Their comments seem valid.  Their goal isn't to crush your new business endeavors but rather help you deliver great products and for the community have a richer set choices when it comes to building up their cars.  Sharing your work, as it were, can: show folks the rigor you have applied, stimulate conversation, drive out potential failure modes, improve designs, and at the very least build trust and confidence in your ability as a designer / fabricator in the community you wish to foster as customers.

I, also, have some questions about your design, and would really like to understand the load cases you've considered and the calcs and FEA you've completed.  at the very least you'll be able to show off all your engineering muscles.  i'm confident there's people in this group that will "get" the math.  

thanks again for all the work you've already put into this and for helping grow the 2002 community!  

interesting...  how does valving compare to, let's say, IE stage 2 stuff?  springs are pretty easy to swap out, but valving - any ability to adjust for more track use?  how's the gecko quality compared to other brands.  and finally, just looked up Danjer --> awesome!!! love to see folks making parts for 02s!

replied..  funny, me and a couple buddies had a Gen1 MR2 as a Lemon's car for a number of years...  fun, but we blew a number of engines...  ended up scrapping it and buying this.  now selling this cuz'in i got a better race car...  

does it need to be a square tail light?  i live in the bay area and have a 1969 2002 that needs to go...  got a roll bar and one racing seat.  been to a number of track days.  fun.  used to have a full interior but gone now.  no rust except a tiny hole in spare tire well.  paint, P.O. did a paint job looks like in his garage.   ping me if you're interested.  not perfect but i think it might be a good project for you...

Had to take the rear windows out to get the cage in but I’m putting them back in this weekend. The fronts are in and work fine. The car is waterproof, meaning if it’s raining nothing came in when all the windows were installed. 

Sorry. No sunroof 

hi, i think the little headliner dome light in my car was original because just the other day it basically crumbled into my hands.  anyone know were i can get a replacement?  its an oval and is about 2" long and 1" wide and is right next to your head.  has a switch.

selling the car and the headliner is nice, it'd be cool if that wasn't just a dangly wire that I asserted still worked, but rather it was a working light.

thanks,

added a bunch of pics...  detailed pics of suspension in the album...  when i get a chance to take some "under car" pics i'll put them up as well.

1969 1602 for sale.

EDITS

11/16 10am

 - added some pics.  sorry for the dusty nature, father-in-law did some farming the last track day down at Buttonwillow...

11/6 1:30pm

 - added album link in body:

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~`

putting it here first prior to craigslist, ebay, whatever...  

also, have to preface by saying the price could very well be completely out of whack.  i have a long demonstrable history of valuing cars i own for less then what they are worth so would appreciate some, er, guidance.  

Bought it about 3years ago.  Didn't have any intention to sell it but had an opportunity to buy an honest to goodness real race car.  Had to go for it.  how many chances am i going to have to do that???  Sadly, extra sadly, no room for two.  i really like this little car.

i've driven it to work, a bit around town, thrashed it, er, driven it briskly, on back roads up in the hills, and done a number of track days with it...

ok, previous owner of importance was a guy in LA and it appears he did a bunch of work on it (engine, suspension, interior, paint) and i have some receipts from Jack Fahuna's shop.  in general pretty quality work.  i've generally brought it to BR Racing in Los Gatos for track day prep.

oh, for more pics, check my albums. 

https://www.bmw2002faq.com/profile/52576-slowpoke/?tab=node_gallery_gallery

Suspension:

- P.O. upgraded it.  IE stage 2 i believe.  really well balanced, pretty stiff.  adjustable rear sway bar.  used it for 3 track days and works great.  if i was going to keep it and keep tracking it more camber would be nice. all in all this is well done.

Steering:

- replaced the steering box due to slop.  kept the old one.  turns out i think it was just mis adjusted it.  now its tight.

Brakes:

- have racy pads in it.  after 3 track days still have good life in them.  don't squeal.   appear to be stock.

- spare parts - i have the parts to upgrade the drums in back to the larger size.  no need to date. need more HP to need more brakes. 

Body:

- no real rust. P.O. tried to paint it himself so its one of those great from far / far from great paint jobs...  take it back, i think the spare tire well has a rust thru but that's it.  seems straight aligns well,  i'd say a really good base for someone that wants to do a restore or a nice paint job.

- driver's door has a clunk when opening.  doesn't seem to affect it but.

- door close hard.  i think that's because the seals were replaced.

Interior:

- looks pretty good. headliner is nice.  dash cracked but everything works / windows, heater, etc. good carpet, had good seats.  what do you mean had?  after my first track day it was actually pretty unsafe to be doing that on stock seats and cheesy seat belt.  so put in a roll bar and dropped in a racing seat.  the roll bar is leaned back pretty far so if you've got a high backed seat and you drive on the street w/o a helmet you shouldn't hit it.  sold all the seats.  door cards still in there, room for stock seat belts if you want them.  roll bar is welded in and done by TC Design in Campbell.  quality guys...

engine:

- 2.0L engine was put in by the P.O. before i bought it.  just works and works. starts fine. has a mid-rpm  tip-in stumble, lessens when it warms up.  burns a bunch of oil.  i think its rings. I'd say tired, but since it was put in by i think Jack Fahuna sorta doesn't make sense.  got a dyno pull: -73whp.  has a 32/36, stock cam and i think a tii exhaust manifold.

- i've been collecting spare parts for a while - was planning on rebuild this winter but as they say, plans change...

Finally getting around to installing my headers on my mostly track car.  here in CA we have a bunch of tracks that are 92db :((  Laguna Seca, Sonoma....  so i'm looking for suggestions on a light weight, good flowing, and sadly fairly quiet exhaust for my '69 2L.

any thoughts?

i'm fairly certain the think that's on there now is circa' the 90's and it tiny...

I would also say if you’re buying used pistons make the owner remove the piston rings and then have them take some (lots) of pics of the ring lands, etc...  i bought a pair of used and one of the rings just would not NOT come out to save my life AND when i got all the carbon off the top of one of the pistons there was a big divot.  Usually there’s a reason people remove, and then sell, used pistons.  FYI. Not to say the posting person isn’t truly above board and trying to keep all the 02 parts swimming in the 02 ocean, just a bit of due diligence can go a long way.

Maybe 3-3.5 in front. Rear is lowered and already has a bunch. lots of push in the front. Non symmetric tire wear

Looking for more camber for my track day-ish car.  Coil-overs or the bigger lower control arms. Suggestions welcome!  

What head and what compression pistons?

thanks!

Random advice.  I’ve taken two tries at buying used pistons.  Things to consider.  Have seller remove rings and remove any random carbon.  Have them take pics of all sides.

nothing against Dionk above, i previously bought a set that had carbon on top and when cleaned there was a chunk missing, one of the rings was essentially welded in place, and the upper side of the piston looks to be wrecked, my guess is because of detonation.  So, be wise on the tails of me getting smarter!

that said, what kind of compression ratio do you think these are?

Pm sent

Ok sent. 

Bought a used set of pistons on this forum recently  (looking for a set for a rebuild i'm preparing for) and learned a couple things and i have a question.  What i learned:

1) before you buy pistons ask that they be cleaned up with good pics faces and skirts

2) before you buy ask that all the rings be removed and get pics of the ring lands

Three of the pistons looked good, rings i could get off, no excessive carbon deposits, etc. etc.  The fourth, however, clearly the offending piston which is why they were removed from the donor engine, had frozen rings, and lots of carbon on the face.  Well, after a bunch of soaking w/ PB Blaster i've gotten 2 of the three rings out (the middle ring is still being stubborn), but more importantly, the carbon on the face came off and this defect, divot, (see below) was exposed.  the question:  is this piston usable in any way?  the knick's clearly been there a while, notice the embedded carbon deposit in the interior of the divot matching the surrounding piston. 

This is my first rebuild, but i'm thinking this is a goner.  Too bad cuz new pistons seem expensive. But if this is bad, this is my second bad set that i've bought on the forum.  the first set was good but got banged up in shipping (lots of skirt scuffs due to insecure packaging rendering them useless.  Thankfully the seller refunded me the base cost on the first set.

any other solutions?  do people sell single pistons?  I called IE and they said minimum order was 4....  so i could buy 5 but not one. 

thanks!

PM on the way