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slowpoke

Solex
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Posts posted by slowpoke

  1. Still ooo but thanks for the flank gap definition. Don’t know that yet. Is there a spec? I’ll see if i can find it in the manual on my flight home.  Here are some more pics i pulled.  4 sides of same piston prior to any cleaning. Don’t know if the skirt scratches are cosmetic or have depth. Don’t remember any marks on the bore.  Don’t know why this engine was pulled but maybe burning lot of oil?

    Also, i think JOHN76 is right; these are likely Mahle pistons:  the M w/ the numbers top and bottom Mahle describes that mark as their quality symbol - likely time of build or lot number, and alas they don’t look anything like VISIONAUT’s 9.5:1

     

    IMG_8788.jpeg

    IMG_8787.jpeg

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    IMG_8785.jpeg

  2. Pulling apart a spare engine for my first rebuild - this is an example of the pistons. Anyone recognize any of these markings?  I dream they are good enough to use again and are 9.5:1 or something like that. For the first one I pulled the top two rings moved easily and the oil ring did move a bit so that’s good. There looked like blow by / carbon on the sides but not to bad. The bore was really smooth with no lip at the top. 

    IMG_8768.jpeg

    IMG_8769.jpeg

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    IMG_8771.png

  3. Hey, you said that it sounds like no fuel for 5-10 cranks and then the next cranks sounds like it’s trying to start…. Randomly, is there a fuel leak (or i guess carb leak that drains the bowl?). If my car sits for a while (couple weeks) then it seems to take a bunch of cranks to get going.  Then it’s fine.  I spray a bit of starter fluid inn the air cleaner and it fires right up….  So…….   Might try that. If a bit of starter fluid makes it start right away then it might not be a 123 problem…. ???

  4. Ok, just to summarize:

    - e12 head

    - 9.5CR

    - for 89.22mm bore

     

    I think I’ve got an e12 head, now you’re encouraging me to pull my head and figure out if my block has been bored out.

     

    did i get the above correct/

    • Like 1
  5. Looking for reputable shop suggestions for head and block work in the NorCal region.  I’m in South Bay would would drive if needed..

     

    Engine’s really tired and I’d like to rebuild and pep it up some.  Looking for more compression (and cam and and…)  - seems like 9.5 or 10:1 is the most i should go on CA pump gas, and that means new pistons.  Am i getting that right?  The car’s mostly used for track days so more pep is always better.  I’d love to be able to, heaven forbid, pass a Miata.  Turns out the 70whp i have isn’t getting it done…

     

    thanks,

  6. Post refresh what kinds of compression you talking?  I’ve got a cam i could throw at it but I’m looking for “more than stock” compression…. Would this work?  I’m in the Bay Area and ideally we could meet in the middle and i could drop it off at a shop on the way home!  My engine needs a refresh but “swap in a new one” seems better than “pull, fix, reinstall”.  

     

    Thanks

  7. All, I’ve been totally “burned” buying used pistons.  Brandon, I’d propose you get the rings out and do some clean up or let folks know that they are quite possibly trash.  It’s hard to tell from a picture  good or not…. At least one of those looks similar to one of pistons that i bought which was at best a paper weight.  

    though i do thank you for helping keep parts in the stream!

  8. If i was going to keep my car I’d consider it. How are they different from the....   e21 longer control arms?  That’s what i was looking at.  Can you use stock fenders?  I was hoping to get the additional camber without cutting.. I’d accept some interior fender rollling though.

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