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BigLiquid530

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Posts posted by BigLiquid530

  1. I wouldn't even play around, I would get my money back thru PayPal. Too many red flags. Emergency or not the seller needs to keep contact with the buyer, I've seen this whole storyline to many times. If by chance after you get your money back he wants to sell you the parts, he or she can send the items first then you pay, other then that I would never buy anything from this seller ever. 

     

    Good luck.......

  2. 13 minutes ago, Stevenc22 said:

    That outer edge you might get away with the replacing the rubber o ring i linked to earlier and putting lock tight on the bolts (Some of the bolts are through bolts into the oil and can leak.

    Do the link I posted was the wrong one?

     

    Also is there a bearing in there?

  3. So I have a leak from the rear differential Seal. What is the proper name of the seal? Is there a bearing also? Does anyone have a part # of what I need to order? I've done a search and didn't find what I needed, and I looked in the PDF manual and I couldn't find nothing. 

     

    Is this what I need 

     

    http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1972/bmw/2002/driveshaft_-ar-_axle/axle_shaft_seal.html

     

    Also it says one is inner and one is outer. Just want to make sure I order the right stuff. Thanks

  4. 49 minutes ago, TobyB said:

    pretty unlikely at 8" and et 25... that wide, the edge of the rim is just about touching the strut tube.  If not wearing a groove into it.

     

    At 8", in front, the et needs to drop about 12, give or take, as et25 at 7" is just about as far inset as practically works.

     

    Might work in back, but OP said "all the way around".

     

    t

    I would be willing to go 8 in back and 7 in front, that's not an issue. As for tire size that I have no clue. I like the stretched look so that's always an option. Don't mind camber either. If I have to pull the fenders I don't mind that either. Not really sure I like flares. So I would say fender pull would be as far as I would go.

  5. 5 hours ago, Driv3r said:

     

    No doubts. They're perfect alternatives to the original Italian style lights at lower cost of the original.

     

    However, considering the costs of Italian signals, they're not a good alternative for someone who is looking to replace their broken oem signals for a daily car. A better practical option to consider for oem style would be to supply the replaceable screw mounted lens at reasonable price. This way, buyers can have their signal housing polished or anodized, then just buy the lens kit which should supposedly include stainless steel or chrome screws/washers for mounting the lens to the housing & body and a small clear silicon tube or relevant rubber/gasket glue to seal the lens. I've successfully removed the oem lens without any damage. I'm now trying to use 3D scanner and printer to make a prototype (for myself). It will be a slow project but will share my experience and DIY write up once I can make it practical in terms of cost vs quality, durability & design. 

    Well I really hope you are successful, $250 a turn signal is a bit pricey at least for me. I think you will be successful, but I know it all take time. Let me know if you ever need a beta tester ?. I also have a set of U.S. turn signals lying around somewhere if you ever need a set just let me know, just have to dig around for them. Also message me when you post your diy blog really interested in how everything turns out. 

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