71roundie67mgb65spitfire

2 hours ago, Furry Camel said:

I was watching the ebay listing for this, and it clearly stated that it was (and is, H1) a 4.10, so this question is a little weird.

As far as swapping in your old flange, you can't. 02 = coarse spline, e21 = fine spline.

Not a weird question. I’m still learning how to ID BMW diffs and have learned the hard way more than once not to trust the word of eBay sellers.

thank you everyone for helping me figure this out. Looking forward to getting it rebuilt and situated with my 5 speed swap. 

Photos of the lsd and stamping.

this was a cheap eBay find, so well aware that there will be some figuring out to do. I also know the rarity of the 4.11 and was skeptical when I bought it. 
 

There are no stampings on the side of the diff which is odd. My plan is to add new bearings and seals, then install it with my 245. 4.11 would be amazing, but 3.91 or 3.64 is also fine. 
 

it is missing the front yoke and one of the half shafts, so will have to move the yoke over from my current diff and source some redrilled e21 half shafts for it. 

Hello everyone,

looking for help identifying this diff that I bought for my 2002. It was sold to me as a 4.11 2002 diff, although the 6 bolt side cover suggests it is likely an e21.

no stamping on the drivers side, no S, but there is an LSD in there. I have yet to count the teeth to determine the gear ratio.

The biggedt thing I want to know is what parts I will need to rebuild/ reseal it and install in my 2002. Verifying what car it originally came in is the first step.

thanks,

Chris 

Hi all, looking for a little tuning advice.

I recently installed a Lynx manifold with dcoe, and have loved it on my 2002. With open velocity stacks, the carb runs perfectly with

38mm chokes

55f8 idle

155 main

180 air correctors

F16 emulsion tubes

I recently bought foam air socks for the trumpets, and cannot get the car to run well with the filters on. It will idle fine, but is clearly starved for air under WOT. Remove the filters and it runs perfect again.

I’ve tried dropping my main jets all the way down to .140 but there was little to no difference. Next I will try changing the air correctors, but my understanding is that the air correctors really only affect the top end.

any advice? I am really surprised that the foam socks are this restrictive and can change my jetting so much. For those with the Lynx 45 setup, what air filters do you run and how has that changed your jet settings?

thanks in advance,

chris 

Thanks, it’s weird to me that changing pump jets didn’t make it much better at all. I understand the physics behind it though. In the British car world, SUs have that front damper that essentially gives a variable choke size to help with this problem. 

Hi everyone,

thanks to some previous threads on the forum, I have gotten my Lynx, single dcoe 45 setup very close on my 2002 (engine rebuilt to stock specs). The issue I am having seems to be on the pump circuit. At idle, if I go to WOT, the car stumbles hard and sometimes dies. It does not have this issue above 2000 rpm.

I’ve tried a variety of pump jets between 35 and 60, and even no jets at all with no noticeable change. There do not seem to be any vacuum leaks and the car idles perfectly. 
 

current jet setup is 

idle: 60f8 

Main: 150

Air corrector: 180

emulsion tube: f16

chokes: 36

pump: open 

stock fuel pump and tii distributor set to 7 degrees advance at idle. Pertronix ignition and flamethrower coil (no external resistor)

Could this be a fuel pump issue? Would it be worth switching to an electric pump? No AFR gauge to tell if it is going lean or rich at WOT.

Thanks in advance,

chris 

Thanks all, email sent. For some reason I couldn't find email addresses on the mobile version of the website. Easy to find on the computer.

Fingers crossed

Wondering if anybody on here has been experiencing a delay with IE lately? I put an order in 2 weeks ago, and it still hasn't shipped (Estimated processing time is 6-7 days). I've bought a lot of stuff from them in the past with great results, but am getting nervous with the timeline. I am getting shoulder surgery at the end of the month which means no working on cars for 8 weeks. Need to get the 2002 finished before then. 

I've tried calling a few times to see what's going on, or cancel the order, but it goes straight to voicemail. 

1 hour ago, AceAndrew said:

 

Took the words out of my brain.

 

The KW's for the 2002's are not an off-the-shelf part number.  For the states, I do batches on behalf of CoupeKing (doing another run right now).  We the vendor can spec whatever we want within reason, given they are "custom".  However, over time I have a couple setups that are pretty well suited for a couple applications we typically use and I don't like to deviate from them given the liability and associated price tag.

 

I would suggest going to MCS, GC, or IE if you wanted to custom spec something.  Pricing will vary.

Based on my note above (priority is dirt roads, and vintage rallies) do you have a kw setup that would fit my application? 
 

Right now I’m running ie stage 1 springs and bilsteins. Overall I feel like the setup rides well, but am annoyed at how the springs constantly unseat when at full travel. In addition, I’m a mechanical engineer and like to tinker and adjust setups to my liking. I’ve been thinking about trying coilovers to fix the unseating problem and give myself a new aspect of the car to play with.

I’m interested specifically in KW because I know they have a solid reputation and build quality. 

1 hour ago, M3M3M3 said:

you are not going to find a damper/spring combination that is happy on dirt, street and track.   anything that is fun on a paved track is going to be way too stiff for dirt....and fun on dirt will be awful on track/auto-x.

 

even if you change springs for different events, no good damper is going to be adjustable for that wide a range of spring rates.

 

ya gotta pick one.  a compromise for everything will be fun nowhere...

Thank you, yes I realize this. Everything has trade offs. My priorities for this car are dirt roads and vintage rallies. For the few times I will be autocrossing it, I can deal with a softer setup.

2 hours ago, Ian said:

Motion Control is excellent for custom options.  You may want more shock travel for dirt than pavement.  I worked with MCS on a set that has 7" of shock travel on a lowered  car that might be in line with what you need.

 

Would love to learn more about this. 

23 minutes ago, Ian said:

Motion Control, Ground Control, and Ireland Engineering make coilovers for the 2002 if you can't find the KW you are looking for.

Thanks, I will have to do some research to see if a KW v3 is going to be too stiff for dirt even in its softest settings. I've seen Ceika also makes coilovers for the 2002 and have a rally/ gravel option, but for around $1,000 I am very skeptical of build quality. 

10 minutes ago, uai said:

Yes KW makes them but they are a street setup.

More details? Do they only make them in their V1?

Hi All, 

I have been looking through suspension options for my 71 2002. My goal with the car is to run rallycross, dirt roads, daily driving, and some autocross/ track. As such, I have been looking through options that have some adjustability. 

Does KW make coilovers for our cars? I found a few old threads saying they do, but haven't seen any options online. Any other suggestions for a suspension setup would be appreciated. I am currently running ST swaybars, IE stage 1 springs, and bilstein dampers with poly bushings and 13 inch tires. 

12 hours ago, Mark92131 said:

I've done this conversion a couple of times after trying to deal with jetting on the Weber 38/38.  I have been very pleased with the results, nice sound, good idle, good top end power, no carb synching issues.  I started the conversion with a 1975 with a stock bottom end, the video is below.

 

I did the same conversion on my hot-rod Cabriolet (292 Cam, Pauter Rods, shorty header, 123 Ignition Distributor, Getrag 245 with LSD, etc.)  That car was scary fast.

 

 

Great engine bays, and still using the stock fuel pump I see. Essentially looking to do the exact same with mine. Maybe one day my 71 will have the same specs as your cabrio…
 

Pm sent. Do you have the linkage?

Hi all, 

almost two years ago I picked up a used and abused Weber 38/38 for my 2002. After rebuilding several times, playing with Jets, etc etc, I just am not happy with it. On wide open throttle above 3,000 rpms, it is fine, but down low and at idle, I can't get the idle jets to perform correctly. I suspect a vacuum leak somewhere, but haven't been able to track it down. 

I've been thinking about switching to a Lynx setup from TEP. I have a rebuilt motor that is overbored .030" but otherwise stock with headers. In the future I may go with a compression bump and fast road cam, but nothing too crazy. I like the idea of the single DCOE because this will be a long distance rally car for me, and the simplicity of one carb is appealing. 

Wondering who out there has made this switch and if it is worth the $1200. Another option would be to pick up a new 38/38 or keep diagnosing, although I have never been a huge fan of downdraft carbs. 

Thanks!

16 hours ago, Son of Marty said:

Looks like the pick up block is rubbing on the magnet ring too and it's crooked, I'm not well versed on the IR distributer but most magnetic ones I've seen the pick up block is equidistance along its whole front. 

 

It could just be the angle of the photo. I didn't do any adjustment when I bought it. I assumed IE assembled it correctly. 

I should also mention that the wires did not normally touch the cam lobe. I pulled them in to get a good view of the screw. 

Assuming IE doesn't get back to me, I will likely just buy a pertronix unit and install that. Sounds like the mounting points are the same. 

5 minutes ago, TobyB said:

What coil were you using?

 

The electronic modules are pretty sensitive to primary resistance.

I blew up a genuine Pertronix that way once.  

 

That said, there have been at least a few posts about this particular item...

 

t

 

Bosch Blue, internally resisted. 

3 minutes ago, tech71 said:

I see what appears to be carbon tracking in upper frame where leads disappear, is it shorting to ground there maybe? Looks like it may be chaffing against the distributor lobe.

Good spot, I haven't looked at it too closely, I just saw the crack in the center magnet and assumed that was the cause. 

Just wanted to throw a warning out there. I bought the reproduction Tii distributor from Ireland Engineering a few months ago. So far I have less than 500 miles on my 2002, and it already broke and left me stranded. 

You can see in the picture that the center unit cracked. I reached out to IE via email to see if they could help make right of this, but no response so far. I am trying to figure out if I can put a pertronix unit in as a replacement. 

I will take them if they haven't sold yet!

PM sent on Bosch blue, shift knob, and STEBRO muffler.

57 minutes ago, tech71 said:

I considered a header at first but with the modest engine build I am doing it was not really worth the aggravation and the IE stainless late model exhaust had been out of stock forever so,

Going with a Tii exhaust manifold, stainless down pipe and genuine BMW exhaust.

When the non sport Ansa exhaust comes out will probably try to give it away. 

You can buy the oe design non sport ansa right now. Rock auto and ebay both have them. I haven't heard much on how they compare to the oem exhaust, but I imagine it is comparable. 

1 hour ago, Son of Marty said:

This won't be popular, but with the mods on your stock engine with a 38/38 weber your throwing away both money and horsepower with a header, the stock manifold desmoged and the stock down pipe will be fine until you go to at least a 292 cam and duel side drafts then a header starts to make some sense, 

I understand what you are saying, but I'm not really looking for power gains, just a nicer sound.