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Mucci

Solex
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Everything posted by Mucci

  1. Could the flywheel just be resurfaced instead of replaced?
  2. Alright transmission is extracted. What am I looking for here / what kind of checks should I do? The whole thing was black with leakage everywhere. Took me a couple hours to clean it up. As expected the rear main is leaking. 1.5in or so rubber plug near the transmission input shaft also looked like it was leaking. IMG_6737.MOV
  3. Ok I'm getting confused on which bearings are which. In RealOEM they're all called "bearing". #5 below is a "4spd transmission bearing kit" that looks like this when i google the PN: Which bearings are included there? And here's another diagram with bearings from RealOEM:
  4. Alright, I guess I'm going to bite the bullet here and pull the trans to assess and likely change the pilot bearing. Here's my "while I'm in there" list: - 242 Elring gasket & seal kit - Rear main seal...since every other seal on this motor is leaking I'm going to guess this one is too. - 215mm Sachs clutch kit (dic, pressure plate, TO bearing, and alignment tool) Anything I'm not considering and should be? All the driveshaft rubber & bearings are new. Shifter and shift plate bushings are new too.
  5. Here’s a video of the noise difference when engaging and disengaging the clutch. Noise goes away with clutch pedal depressed.
  6. How would this cause the noise? Not sure I understand.
  7. Well, unfortunately the noise prevails after changing the trans oil… I can actually feel it through the shift knob. The vibration feels grittier.
  8. Had a quick look under there and the rear of the tranny is wet. Looks like seepage around the rear case gasket. I’ll get it in the air tomorrow and check the fluid level. So how quickly do things go badly when the tranny fluid gets low? Stock 4spd.
  9. So the other day I started getting a loud chattering noise from what I assume is the clutch or flywheel. The noise goes away when the clutch is depressed but is quite loud and chattery when clutch is engaged while idling in neutral. Any ideas what this is and why it would have suddenly cropped up?
  10. Unfortunately I don't have a vacuum gauge, only pressure gauges. According to the blue book all my timing figures are within spec, although the 42 total advance is at the high end of the spec (38-42 degrees). I can try to dial a few degrees out of it. If my timing was too advanced how would that produce a lean condition up top? Wouldn't I experience some kind of pinging, power loss, terrible noises etc.? CD's figures are with a plugged secondary enrichment circuit so those numbers aren't really apples to apples unless I was to do that. I haven't changed the emulsion tubes so I assume it's the F-50s according to this: I'm just relaying what the engineer at Weber told me. He seemed very well versed in the 32/36. He even developed the sync-link.
  11. Unfortunately it seems that the primary idle jet wants to be fatter if anything. With the 65 my mixture screw is right at 2 turns out in order to get the highest idle. On either side of 12.5 the idle speed drops. I had the 60 in there before and the mixture screw and throttle stop screw both had to go beyond Weber's spec in order to hit highest idle and a smooth idle RPM around 900. That's why I was asking about the secondary idle jet's influence. If it was in fact influencing idle I was thinking I could increase that jet, turn the idle screw in a bit so it wasn't on the 2-turn cusp, and hopefully fatten up the secondary / top end. Only reason I haven't tried it is because Weber doesn't give you a 70 idle jet in the kit.
  12. - Brass floats. I think I set them to 40mm but that was a year ago when I rebuilt the carb so I should check again. I remember I was told by a Weber tech back then to set the float height 2-3deg down from horizontal to account for the change in buoyancy of modern fuel. Not sure what that equates to in mm. - Stock dizzy, Bosch 003. Vacuum advance diaphragm plumbed to the vac port at the base of the Weber. No vacuum retard. - Stock fuel pump. Not sure what you mean by return valve. There's a return line that runs along the drivers frame rail. - Plugs may actually be BP6ES, I'll have to check. I had 2 empty boxes and couldn't remember which went in the car. I've had a lot of motorcycles that ran BP 6 and 7 plugs so I've got stacks of both.
  13. They were on actual motorcycles. Mikunis, Keihins, Dellortos...
  14. Thanks for the info folks. Ok here's the full spec list currently: Car 1975 2002 Location Santa Cruz, CA (sea level) - 60F Motor Stock internals. Valve clearance set to .007. Long tube headers to 2.25" exhaust with IE muffler. No resonator. Ignition New STI plug wires with NGK BP7ES plugs. Pertronix ignition Flamethrower coil Advance per RPM: 12 @ 1000 29 @ 1500 31 @ 2000 36 @ 2500 42 @ 2700+ Carburetor Weber 32/36 DGEV P. idle: 65 P. main: 140 P. air corrector: 170 S. idle: 60 S. main: 145 S. air corrector: 160 Mixture screw 2 turns out. AFR Idle: 12.5 Low RPM / Low Throttle (cruise): 13.5 - 14.2 1/2 throttle Acceleration: 12.8-13.8 WOT / Low RPM: 15.0-16.5 WOT / High RPM: 15.0-17.5
  15. How would improper float height would cause a top end lean? I can understand this in motorcycle carbs where the mains are above the fuel line but the mains on these Webers are at the bottom of the bowl. Wouldn't I have to drain the entire bowl before starving the mains? I don't have a fuel pressure gauge on the car unfortunately. Accelerator pump squirt is only active for a moment when cracking the throttle correct? How would this produce high end lean condition?
  16. Thanks again for all the info Toby. I opened your pdf at work then realized it’s a Sunday morning with coffee and time to kill kind of read. I’ll get to it soon. I thought this was making a lot of sense until I tried to put it to the test tonight. As stated before I had a rich condition at partial throttle - low rpm and a lean issue at WOT high rpm. My idle is within spec so I went +.10 on the primary air corrector and -.10 on the secondary corrector. This solved my part throttle rich condition a bit so that now I’m cruising at 13.5-14.2 (better) however my WOT now leans out to 15-16.5 at all rpm! I’m not sure why it’s leaning out more at WOT after reducing the secondary air corrector. My next move is to bump up the secondary main .05 in hopes that it’ll only add fuel to the top end range. That sound right? If the secondary idle jet doesn’t come on until the secondary starts to open at 2/3 throttle why is it called an idle jet? Another question…what kind of problem would a pump jet step up be the solution for? Just curious as I’ve got a 55 (+.05) single sided pump jet in the Weber kit.
  17. I'm purposely not sharing my mods or jetting recipe to avoid numerical prescription. I won't learn anything that way. I'm looking for information on exactly how the carb meters air/fuel within different RPM and throttle ranges. Once I understand that process I'll know where to pull and push jet numbers based on what the wideband log. I'm a little hazy on why it's critical to know exactly when the secondary is coming on. I read somewhere that the procedure is to get the primary jetted accurately and then step all the secondary jets down .05 from there (i.e. 145 p. main / 140 s. main). Is that accurate? Is that rule of thumb reversed for the air correctors? ...meaning secondary air corrector would step UP .05? How does the above method work for testing primary main jet at 2/3-WOT throttle position since that's secondary territory?
  18. I did notice the AFR leans out as I get higher in the RPM range. If I understand it correctly that's the air correctors coming on? How much effect do the secondary passages have on AFR prior to the linkage being engaged? Is idle AFR a 50/50 split between primary and secondary idle jets when both TB's are closed? (or maybe more accurately, a 53/47 split?) Are the idle jets active throughout the entire throttle range? When do the mains start to come on?
  19. So I finally got my Wideband setup and have been trying to fine tune my Weber 32/36 but I’m having trouble finding information on what passages are active at what throttle positions. I’m used to tuning motorcycle carbs and there is a popular graph that shows which jets/passages are active during different throttle positions. Does something like that exist for the Weber 32/36? I’ll preface by saying I’ve already gone through and verified my ignition timing at all RPMs and have gone through the Weber tuning guide to get the car running pretty well. Currently my best idle is 2 turns out at 12.5 AFR. My cruising AFR at 1/4 throttle is pretty rich at 12.5. Part throttle acceleration is also around high 12’s. However WOT at high rpm is 14.5-15. How do I lean out my partial throttle range and richen up at full throttle?
  20. Thanks Mike. My multimeter automatically switches ohm scale and was still showing open circuit so I guess I found the stumbling issue. Whacked my exhaust on a speed bump the other day and I think the distributor hit the firewall. Likely broke the HT lead internally and moved the dizzy. I need some stiffer motor mounts...
  21. How do I bench test the coil HT lead wire on a ‘75 2002? I don’t get any resistance (OL) when I probe the removed wire however it does generate spark as verified by holding the distributor side close to the valve cover during cranking. Is there a inline resistor that’s preventing me from testing with the multimeter or is there a break in the wire? Has Karlyn/STI wires on it I believe. (The brown cap ones)
  22. I’ll check again but they were equalized for the alignment 2 weeks ago and the wheels and tires are new. The alignment print out said something about CA requiring them to all be 30psi during inspection.
  23. I was driving the car for a couple weeks after all the new front end rubber. It tracked perfectly straight before the steering box came out.
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