72_02

Did the alternator just have 3 wires going onto it or the proper plug? Maybe they are mixed up. I think that can cause issues without knowing any other info. Check diagrams and look at the pin outs to the pin outs on the regulator.

Just a guess tho.

bump still got it basically new!

You did better than me for 3400! Nice one. Pretty straight!

They make an excellent project

I love that Iowa car for 2500. Holy moly. i dig that color.

On July 27, 2011 at 8:45 PM, MrSharky said:

Still stumped.

Okay, so Betty has been on the d/l for such a long time that I forgot about the turn signal problem. Here's where it is now - the quick recap:

NEW flasher button (in center console)

NEW Turn signal switch (brand new from BMW)

NEW (used) rear turn signal housings installed, with all new bulbs - all wiring checked & cleaned before install.

Turn signals do NOT work from switch.

Hazards DO work. - press the button, and all 4 go like crazy. All the time, every time. Can't get them to not work.

Horn works, wipers work.

I've gone through pretty much everything I can think of - just put all new bulbs in the gauge console too. Again - the flasher relay is the aftermarket one - I've double checked wiring on that several times. I've even now grounded the "spare" wire that is there.

What else? What can I look at? Need something before I pull out all of my hair...

thanks,

Matt

Want to sell you old rear housings?

'

I need to rebuild mine and a spare set would be good have.. I don't like the design and want to modify them. I find the bulbs are never snug enough and they always loose connection after decent bumps in the road. Mine are pretty old.

No points, im using a pertronix ignitor series I.

I wonder if the voltage regulator is wired wrong.

I did rewire it. Checked, double and triple checked that wiring, too.

I will look at the diagrams in my manual.. 

Regards low tension wiring- where will that wire come from exactly ?

I'll see when I get it back

Drove all day Saturday, went really well, even up to 70mph, then while driving home it gave up. Jolting started an hour from it's home. Tow truck came and took it to the shop... 2nd visit to a mechanic ever! (Could be a sign)

Hopefully it's something simple that happened. I re-did timing by ear on the highway and limped about 6 miles, but then jolting started in 1st and 2nd gears at low speeds, and the car totally stalled. Ah well, I tried! New rotor and cap replaced on the highway too, re did timing again, nothing. The coil was very hot.

BTW I measured my coil on idle fluttering around 11.7 up to 17v. I thought I read it wasn't meant to go above 12... ?

I shall see.. hope it's not damaged from driving :/

I am still ironing out issues with my engine and how it runs. It's a lot smoother, especially after a quick sanding of the points as I'm waiting for a new dizzy cap.

But I would like to replace the spark plugs - I ordered ones thinking I had the original engine. (my car is a '71 2002 - recently found out it's actually not a 72...)

But, it has a 76 E21 2.0 stamped on the head. I pulled a plug, it's a WR7BP. I ordered WR7DC+. Is that even the original head? Or is it is so simple - an e21 head from 1976?

The BP is much shorter. Does this still matter?

Thanks, Tom. This is amazing!

the BB jumps about half the length of the flywheel inspection hole, my guess is i need to rebuild the dizzy.

think ill get a spare and send it off.

Update and the car is better. Starting and 2-3k is smooth after timing done using BB at 1400rpm.

Car pulls pretty well, can even hear a tire squeal into 2nd gear but still nothing after about 4000 rpm especially in 4th gear. On the highway once I hit 65mph, it dies, comes back to life, and all over again. I sort of limp along in the slow lane and hope people understand it's an old car.. but I know it's better than that!

Could it be my dizzy, or coil? I have a 3 ohm resistor, and a pertronix hooked up on the coil side of the resistor (closer to firewall) which is the correct wiring.

Carb > dizzy vacuum pipe was also only recently connected to the vacuum on the carb... it was previously on the intake manifold. (made all the difference to the 2-3k dead spot actually).

Are there any other diagnostics I can do? Are springs inside the dizzy still an issue if I have an electronic point system? Is it possible the rotor is bouncing around since it's so old?

Was about to buy a blue coil to see if it helps.. The resistor and coil get fairly hot. But I should really measure them with a digital meter before chucking.

Before I think it's fuel, (filter is perfectly clean), should I try a refurbished dizzy? I found Bosch 071's on A1 auto for $150 bucks "rebuilt".

Many thanks.

No offense to Jim if he is real, then I'll take the deal for sure buuuut..

I was offered a nose clip, rear QR panel, seat parts and hood bar for $300 shipped CA to NY. The conversation went along a while (he had seen my wanted posting on here) and then emailed me.

Searched around for similar scam stuff but couldn't find anything. Just an FYI. Seems a bit too good to be true.. 

If it is true can I have dibs on the body panels ! 

Photos of the car.

Anyone know what to do with the old vacuum line hookup on the intake manifold?

I just gave my car a breathe of life after taking the line to the dizzy from this port to the port on the 32/36. The lower rev range is far smoother, but the top is still cutting out.

Do you just leave the intake manifold vacuum port? I found the car to be dying if I plugged it.

I wondered what the cure was for this issue? 

Ive got the same problem.

pertronix, nice and smooth and pretty good power with secondaries open until 4000rpm especially in 4th gear, then, it jolts, dies, and sort of pulses?

car timing is set using a light on the BB at 1400 rpm.

new leads.

could the coil be busted? Fuel filter is perfectly clean.

Thanks Guys. Matthew yes I will definitely try. I thought it may be out of whack its only every 2nd or so part of the guibo that hits, so likely its distorted.

When the torrential rain in NY stops Ill get back to it! Cheers. Will post update when I have the new flex.

Also realized the input shaft on the gbox has a bit of play. Maybe 2mm worth.

my old gearbox makes all kinds of noise but i think its only the release bearing.

can 2 boxes be turned into one by a novice? I really dont want to get too deep into gearbox rebuilding!

Well I fianlly got mentally prepared to do more mechanical work today. Went to pull the old gearbox and clutch out and found that my replacement 4 speed's shifter shaft actually hits the guibo/rubber driveshaft joint donut. So it wont spin clean.

What the? Im guessing its been dropped? The seal is a little open on the top so it must be.

Can this be fixed easily using parts from my old one? Can I just take the back off both boxes and swap parts? 

Is that nose panel for sale? Don't worry, just read you'd shipped to NY. Bugger!

How much for the dizzy? Has it got a pertronix in it?

I just did this job overhauling the whole from end.

They strip so easily. I did find taking the hub off helps, it was honestly not more than 5 minutes to remove the bearings (good time to replace them and the seals at 10 bucks a side), and then take off the brake cover and respray that while you're at it, an then you get a clean shot at these bolts. Otherwise you're at an angle and it's so easy to strip the heads. Maybe soak them in PB Blaster, I sprayed it on a few days before I did the job and it helped I think. If you have to replace them they're bloody expensive at 10 dollars each!

Let me know where you get safety wire! I haven't re done mine yet.. 

I also think I got 2 out with a spanner, and the 3rd with a big vice grip. I ended up buying 2 new bolts.. should have done the lot but I read somewhere you can re-use most fasteners on these cars and they were clean without too much wire rusted in. (the reason I had to replace 2 was the wire was basically fused inside the bolts).

On August 10, 2016 at 10:17 PM, 2002VT said:

Awe snap - found cancer on the interior tear down. Front upper floor is gonzo!  Do you all take out the sound padding - and then just go dynomat?  

 

Ps - any parts I should not toss (like NLA stuff)?  I think I should toss the center console and the seats. Seems someone went bonkers with the screws in the console. *facepalm* 

 

 

 

 

have you still got the seats?!

Really need the driver's side part that un screws between the part you sit on, and the part you put your back against. Let me know! Happy to pay something for it. Just hard to find.

I attached a photo. After both sides if you haven't trashed them!

PS really tidy car. Next to nada rust. Awesome find! 

I ordered the 8 prong and need the 6 for my car.

This is a new in box 8 prong with resister hazard switch from fcpeuro. 

NOTE - I stupidly bent a pin, then bent back into place after realizing it wasn't worth trying to make work.. Definitely a disclaimer. Read that you can retrofit and decided to just get the correct part.

50? Can ship within a few days.

bump. 

free if you pay shipping or take away sometime. can have it in brooklyn if you need!

3 hours ago, thehackmechanic said:

In order to use a mutimeter to measure resistance (or continuity), you have to isolate the thing whose resistance you want to measure from the rest of the circuit. If it's a wire, you need to disconnect the wire at both sends, set the meter to measure resistance, hold one of the meter's probes at one end of the wire, and the other at the other end of the wire.

Because the wires are permanently attached to the Pertronix, there's no way to isolate the wire. There's no way to put one probe on the end of the wire at the Pertronix. 

 

So, unless you use a wire-piercing probe and pierce through the insulation, you can't. 

 

Do I understand your question correctly?

 

The wiring hookup on the Pertronix is:

 

--Take the wire that was connected to the spade connector on the condenser and tape it up and zip-tie it out of the way

 

--Red Pertronix wire goes to the INPUT side of the ballast resistor (the side facing AWAY from the ignition coil)

 

--Black Pertronix wire goes to the side of the coil labeled "1" or "-" (the trigger side of the coil that goes to the points

 

 

Rob

Thank you very much Rob.

Makes sense indeed.

Though, I am curious why the Pertronix connects to the input side of the 3 ohm resistor? I thought it was meant to be on the output side so it receives less current / therefore not burning out? That was how I understood the pertronix instruction manual.

If I do hook the pertronix onto the resistor facing away from the coil I only have one spade connector on that side. I can just piggy back in?

I already replaced condenser wire with a single wire that runs from the coil to my tach.

Cheers again, going to order the book.

I have a really embarrassing question.

How can I measure the resistance of the wire coming into the + on my pertronix?

Earth to positive hook up on pertronix ? Or - on coil to whatever I am hooking my + pertronix wire up to? It's been a long time since I used a multimeter.. 

similar question but haven't yet found my answer and cant find a diagram with a legend on it.

I installed a pertronix on the weekend, car runs, but I'm wondering if I'm actually damaging anything. (way better at high revs, still have a dead spot though).

I ran the negative to the ignitor from the - on the coil.

I ran the red wire to the ignitor from the THING that sits beside the coil, that has all the wires going into it. Is that a regulator? It didnt seem like a relay. I know it has a ground to its casing, and another ground that goes to somewhere near the battery. It also has a + going into the + on the coil. the + on the coil also goes to the resistor. Which makes me wonder how the resistor is actually doing anything, because that doesn't seem to be series wiring to me. More like parallel. Hmm. Try to get photos soon.

Anyone know the name of that part so I can try to figure this out?

Cheers! Sorry for hijacking this thread. My car is also a '72.