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Posts posted by Greg Mierz
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I've discovered a rip in my bilstein boot on one front strut. Is there a part # for it. RealOEm doesn't break it down. Or is there an available substiute? Or may be a good used one in Seattle? Thanks for any help here.
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Sounds like its hitting the temp control cable. Move the temp selector slightly and see if it changes.
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Be careful, the car can get a real hold on you. 2200lbs or so is so light now compared to anything newer. The car's dynamics can lead to taking every turn like it is an art form. I've had the disease since 1974 and it's terminal. 46 years of driving it, over 440K on parts of it. Think of it as the car you can't keep your hands off and thoughts off of. Yes Son of Marty the early club days here in Seattle had a great bunch of 02 addicts it sure did
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The head already has hardened valve seats. It is just a four cylinder engine. Your previous experience should work well doing this. Go slow and check and double check clearances. IF you decide on new pistons get higher compression ones for whatever head you will use. The motor will respond to everything else you do with more compression. I love big domes!!! But don't be afraid there is lot of knowledge hiding here and the work isn't beyond what you have already done. Good luck
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1663328 early 1969 was bolted in at one time.
been in trunk for 35 years or so. Works great.
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It's one half on a fuse holder, the other half twisted on with fuse in the middle. Look for a similar end.
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Thought that looked like Max's car, was fast , sad to hear he's past.
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I can speak with experience as to whether pegging the 70 lb gauge when oil is cold causes any long term problems. My gauge is over 40 years old and has pegged every startup in history and reads just fine when oil temp comes up. The pressure range when warm has much more swing to normal pressure changes. Reading only half a gauge swing because of 10 minutes or less seems a waste. Be sure to get a two pole sender for gauge and light. As an aside, I've recently moved oil temp from the pan(sump temp) to the oil filter head. The oil temp comes up faster and think more realistic to the oil flowing through the engine, rather than the accumulated temp soak. I like it, I feel better hitting the redline sooner.
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Ok, I tell my story. 1974 Fullerton California. My only new car a 1966 VW 1300. I drove a friend's 2002 through Laguna Beach canyon and I was mainlined forever. I bought 1663328 for my birthday in 1974. I have put all but 68k of over 440K miles on it. I fell into the Puget Sound BMW club after moving back up to Seattle after the car has never again been stock. I drove it as a daily driver until 2003 when I bought my 86 325es/is. The 2002 has never been a garage queen, it has seen many a track day and many autocrosses. I love driving it still, the sound of Webers at song is truly addicitive. I've put over 30 years on the latest motor, Tisa Webers since the 80's , high compression pistons, Schrick 288 M30 cam ground onto hard overlay M10 shaft, basically a 292 with the higher lift of the 304. A great street cam. I still love tinkering with it, just redid my custom airbox so 50mm stacks can fit. I love the better breathing. But that another story. Ps the lovely lady with my 2002 is still with me also wife of 49 years.
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I've recently done the led bulbs with refreshed rear housing, wire terminal cleanup etc. The damn thing is nice and bright at all corners. I've seen the kits and I'd like a side by side comparison too. I'm very pleased at the improvement. Slight size adjustment but no real issue. Needed a newer flasher and all is well. I'm sticking to reg bulbs for the cluster.
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it's 15 mins from the house, I'll be there.
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I recently did LED's from superbrightleds in taillight turn and stop plus running lights. I used a CEC EF33RL flasher and everything works correctly. Indicator light and all exterior lights work as they should. The setup is very bright and I like. Flasher is like $15 and it works fine.
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I've used the oil drain plug temp sensor for decades. Recently went to the temp sender in the oil filter housing because I had one and Patrick at Midnight Motor sports welded the bung in. A few notes since. The pan sensor reads the temp of the sump as it heat soaks. The other one is bathed in flowing oil and show warmup sooner than the sump. I would believe the non-sump temp as more accurate but I'm willing to hear your theory. The oil pressure switch is in the perfect place, the end of the line, if pressure good there it's good everywhere.
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If behind the rim no problem, mine in glued 3 pieces, Thanks
Greg
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Is this still available? Condition of plastic globe please?
thanks
Greg Mierz
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Is that the smaller roundel that go on trunk panel? If so price please
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What years of Focus please. It looks very workable as the vertical edge is first to go.
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I done have on deep, one shallow, the black slat is deeper than the silver one, still for sale I can negotiate price accordingly. Thanks for the correction, now who wants spares? i need my new recaro ls-c covers
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bump , still for sale
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Of course, local West Seattle 2002ti of viaduct and club fame will be there Saturday. Parts that I plan to bring include grills lt/rt in pretty good shape, Strut, waist trim pieces a 4:10 gear set, and some interior pieces including short console and rear door panels.
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All this is true, but 45DCOE's is what the Tisa had. If the car is more driver than racer definitely go 40's 34mm chokes. I've run 45DCOE's with 36mm chokes for over 30 years, the bottom end loss isn't noticed 'cause of shorter gearing masking it well. Car will get very high 20's mpg on road with 5 speed and 4;11's now with the 3;91 it'll probably get 30. Tuning of any setup is crucial, Byron will probably agree many sidedraft setups get jetted poorly and don't run as cleanly and responsibly as they should. Motor need at the minimum 9:5 1 or better, cam at the 284-300 degree area, I was lucky at the time of changing from the factory Solexes I had to the 45's was in the nice port job done on the BMW intake manifolds, Signal strength is important, so much affects it. If you already have the 40's it is really a no brainer, use them. You don't want to know how little I paid in the early 80's for factory Webers brand new. Hope this helps
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Horn button arrangement must be altered, but otherwise it should slide on, splines are the same. I haven't used it but that;s what I've been told.
replacement front strut bellows
in BMW 2002 and other '02
Posted
Thanks for the lead. Those are exactly what I need and they are ordered and I'm waiting.