Greg Mierz

Simple is the best. I put my battery in the trunk over 40 years ago. 00 welding cable directly to starter. 00 ground cable to the shoulder bolt receptacle big 8mm one. Multiple grounds from motor to chassis. It has been perfect for this long time. Run a large gauge wire from starter terminal to alternator, and from there to chassis. The large red wire going into buss bar is from 85 amp 318i unit.  Originally had bus bar next to radiator worker fine, gave me a 12V source under hood and ground to chassis. A few years ago I redid the buss bar and fuses to these photos. Car is early 69 6 fuse with relayed headlights and fuses since the early 80's , electric fan.

I've had mine since something like 86-87, bought it for like $500, was almost new by today's standards, now over 35 years later it is still working like it should. Second gear likes a little heat in the box, but with a car with over 440k on it it's been nice. Originally with the 4:11 LSD longneck and now with 3:91 short neck E21. 4:11 with the 5 speed was quicker and but the 3:91 is nicer at higher speeds for cruising. It is one of the greatest thing on can do it with lower gears and some added HP. The M10 is quite reworked and been a real pleasure for decades. 

That looks like the rear of a long neck differential shaft, mine was like that. It does work good on a 5 speed swap, mine did until the long neck died.

I've had a oil temp gauge since I bought mine in 1974. Ran the oil pan sensor for many years. Recently had Patrick at Midnight motorsports add one to an extra housing I had. The oil filter reading shows a faster oil temp rise on warm up and should be a more accurate reading. The pan read total heat soak more than flowing oil temp. My two cents on the gauge is in over 40 years my 75 psi gauge has worked fine, the higher pressure at cold startup just pegs the gauge and when warm the full temp sweep is better. VDO gauges as reference

I updated to a M30 starter the sr71x I believe, It spins my M10 like the plugs are out. I like it very much plus smaller and more powerful.

I've been around 2002's here in Puget Sound for 40 years. Patrick O'neill at Midnight Motorsports is absolutely a go to guy. He is a great 2002 mechanic and is fair and honest too. He will do right by you.

The ring gear on the FLYWHEEL not differential might be flipable or just rotated so the motor stops at another location on the ring gear.  I'm sure someone will chime in if this is correct. Just checked one laying in the garage and it might be possible.

Greg M

Damn, that beats my Jan 1974 purchase for my 69 1663328, but I have over 440K on it with over 300k as a hot rodded Weber fueled 5 speed ti clone. That a lot of miles but it is still a treat to drive.

I have an 86 325is that I recently put the E46 trw rack in and I LOVE it, great feel and 3 turns lock to lock. Normal later rack replacement install and the E46 racks are cheaper.

Scanned some old slides from the early 80 Puget Sound BMW events I photographed and one of me by some one else. Enjoy and please comment.

Thanks for all the ideas. The link to the seatbelt site has many choices. I think I'll try just a lap belt as I like the cleaner look on the package tray. Thanks again.

Too cluttered for the rare usage, I'm thinking simple none retractor stuff in side panel when not in use. Thanks

I really like the look of the coupe seats in my car. I want to pose the question of what seat belts others who have made the swap are using. I can live with lap only as the rear seat is very seldom used but a nice shoulder setup is interesting. Thanks for any ideas.

As a reference my 9:5/1 piano tops, schrick 284 big six copy cam(think 292 with 304 lift) 45dcoe 15/16's and I can run 34-35* and still run regular under 80* air or so, check throttle and timing .

12 * advance where and when? total in even with big top e12 pistons should be 33-36. Get a good timing light and check.

I'm pretty sure it is a spade to spade connector, I vaguely remember one somewhere but it is a connector.

Okay, this prove beyond doubt, 1: Swedes are nuts 2: M10 and sidedrafts sounds great (40 years with 45dcoe15/16) and most of all #3 2002's are truly a point to steer and bring it around with the rear kind of car. Great in snow with proper tires and a LSD. There are some skilled loose condition drivers in that video.

vin # 1663328 17 sept 1968 one hook passenger side only

The worst thing I have seen about solid mounting them on 4 cylinder engines is in the old days of BRASS floats we saw a slight increase in the failure rate of the floats.  In 40 years (probably about 250K miles) of running DCOEs on my car I have replaced 2 brass floats.  Depending on the type of throttle linkage you are using, soft mounts make it very hard to keep them in Sync.  

I'm solidly with Byron on this one, I've had my Tisa 45 15/16's on paper gaskets on factory ti manifolds ported to for 45's and with over 40 years and 350K miles I lost one float.  Keep it simple and things work best

On 2/7/2022 at 10:18 AM, Preyupy said:

The worst thing I have seen about solid mounting them on 4 cylinder engines is in the old days of BRASS floats we saw a slight increase in the failure rate of the floats.  In 40 years (probably about 250K miles) of running DCOEs on my car I have replaced 2 brass floats.  Depending on the type of throttle linkage you are using, soft mounts make it very hard to keep them in Sync.  

Here's a photo showing difference. I ran the 320i one on a 228mm clutch for 20 years before the slave cylinder failed. The 323 one does improve the feel somewhat, but was fine with the wrong throwout bearing.

Sleeves work well if done right, I've got over 30years on the one in my block and its is still running great.

There was once a great reference guide called the "Tech Compendium" of the Puget Sound ACA chapter. According to the part substitution chapter, inner L45410 L45449 outer LM11710  LM111749, That regular struts Tii are bigger better. Tii inner LM67010 LM67048 outer LM11910 LM 11949. That should be what you want.

Compendium was a massive rehash of every chapter newsletter for several years all pre internet stuff

Uro has a replacement sunroof lens, i got mine from Rock Auto( try E9) listing for around$10, very nice replica.

At that price level, the idea of the replica schnitzer head begins to make sense. If the people making the replica head can do them for say $5-10K they may very well be a market for them. We could use our carbs and distributors and be price ahead. Are they listening??