Greg Mierz

The dome cover is from an M60 v8 valley cover with a custom built backing plate. I did a valley pan replacement years ago and kept the old one thinking about a new filter assembly. The cover is almost 2 liters in volume so the "stack headroom" is much better than my original. Patric at Midnight Motorsports did the TIG welding for me. The filter clears the Tii booster with "just" enough to not hit in reverse. It is an improvement over my old one and I'm pleased with its performance and looks. I feel good that my original design has been copied by others by my first was 30 years ago!

I've been running my 45dcoes for decades. I've done the foam sock airfilters and finally built a custom airbox around a datsun 240z air filter element. 1st version used short stacks and the latest uses larger stacks with a different cover. The latest one and the longer stacks have worked out really well.  The longer stacks make a little more torque lower down.

I've never had a height problem with the rotor , using the correct trigger wheel? The Allison(Crane)system requires some more wiring than a Petronix  but is a better system in my mind, it's always started my Webers with ease.

I can give you peace of mind about the Crane(allison) photoelectic system. I replaced my points over 47 years ago with an Allison Photoelectric system and its worked fine for 440K + miles. Always have the ignition perfect before blaming the fuel. I'm no Tii guy, its Webers forever but I also think the slightly low pressure is the main problem. Your on the right track making sure the ignition is perfect.

I've run my positive cable from rear battery mount along the factory route and then nicely through a grommet through the firewall near starter for over 45 years with NO problems . The tubing cover where it passes through something.

Decades ago when I put my 245 in, I got a 6 bolt flywheel from Byron Sanborn  (Preyuppie) that he had re-drilled for the 228mm clutch. At that time you didn't have any way to use the non-diaphram clutch with the 5speed. My 2002 -1663328 is a 6 bolt crank, it was the only option I had. It has worked beautifully for over 30 years.

Here's a picture of the difference. The left one is the normal throwout bearing and the right is the correct 323i bearing. I ran the wrong one for over 20 years and the slave cylinder eventually went out from the throw difference between the two. I can't really say if the correct one feels any different in use. 

I'm including an article I wrote decades ago on this very subject. To the best of my knowledge the turn signal switch is the same for all early cars but the wiring at the fuse box is different. Early US wired cars have the parking lights paired front and rear, the euro car left and right. Some changes are needed to some US cars to make this work. I did this decades ago as I thought it was a nice safety feature.

02lights001.pdf

It looks like one in there to me. Small pick and patience it'll come out.

Some 13's will fit but not all, it's a try and see situation. My old BWA sportstars fit barely and my Borrani steels did not. But I love the brake combo.

Glad to see you made it from west Seattle to Florida ok. I watched Patrick build this over the months . He did a great job with all the fabrication. Great attention to all the details. Real strong sounding M20. It is a testament to Patrick's skills that you got it home without trouble. I guess the time spent on breaking things in and driving it here worked well. Enjoy the car and be careful I hear traction is precious in second to third, I want your rear tire budget!!

Just remember you'll need some real good grounds up front with the battery in the trunk from body to motor.

On the early cars the rear deck has bolts for what would have been shoulder belts, I used that welded to the body for mine 40 years ago and it works perfectly.

You have the newer style face and those seem to be available. It's the old classic look that is getting very hard to find.

Patrick O'neill at Midnightmotorsports  spoke with VDO headquarters and they told him that they are phasing them out. They show on catalog but aren't really available.

I may end up trying to have them serviced by a pro but it can't be cheaper than new, but for nostalgia I may do that. I'm very curious about the Ebay Indian sourced gauge are like. It wasn't much to see and I've still a line on an oil temp old style vdo gauge new if not out of stock.

It appears as the VDO cockpit line of 52mm gauges is over. I tried to clean the glass of my old VDO gauges, I got them off and cleaned but in putting them back together I broke them. They have been in the car since purchase in Jan. 1974. In searching for replacements for oil pressure and oil temp gauges that I broke, I found them out of stock and non available from many sources. It appears they are no longer being made. I found clones on ebay that look exactly the same except for lack of the vdo font below needle. They are cheap and I ordered them to see if they are any good. I will give a review once I get them. My order for them with Jegs is on backorder, we’ll see if they become available. The moral here is Don’t take them apart, they are fragile.

As one of the West Seattle locals whose been to every one, it's maybe 2 miles from home, I'll bring my old friend out to see its cousins.

After over 45 years with the original starter, once rebuilt, I went with the sr41x M30 six starter , cheaper and available. No issues at all with install and it spins the motor likes the plugs are out. The spin rate is noticeable faster and appears to take less current to do so. You will like the newer style starter very much.

This thread may be able to provide me with some info about the wheels that came on my 2002 which from all info I can get is that it spent some time after purchase in Europe. These wheels were on the car when purchased in Jan. 1974. And if anyone know what the badge on rear stands for.

I found that the URO replacement E9 light is perfect for sunroof switch. Was very reasonable in price and a perfect fit . I think i used Rock auto. This was for the lens , the only part I needed.

The video explains why my 45DCOE 15/16 runs so well with 36mm chokes smaller than the 38's factory sized for an 1800. The aux venturi  see a stronger vacuum signal and the progression and main timing is so good. It should be better than 34's in a 40. 40 years like that seems to prove the point. Love those opera singers!!!

My early 69 had the low shoulder strap attachment. After having the b pillar attachments welded like the later cars and later belts work fine with my Recaro LSC's. It is much nicer higher on the shoulder. It is easy to have done would highly recommend over the lower rear ones.

That really good to hear.

Simple is the best. I put my battery in the trunk over 40 years ago. 00 welding cable directly to starter. 00 ground cable to the shoulder bolt receptacle big 8mm one. Multiple grounds from motor to chassis. It has been perfect for this long time. Run a large gauge wire from starter terminal to alternator, and from there to chassis. The large red wire going into buss bar is from 85 amp 318i unit.  Originally had bus bar next to radiator worker fine, gave me a 12V source under hood and ground to chassis. A few years ago I redid the buss bar and fuses to these photos. Car is early 69 6 fuse with relayed headlights and fuses since the early 80's , electric fan.