182kartracer

To those of you with cages in your car, can I remove this  since I wont need it to support the shock. It seems to just be a source of rust as it almost was designed to trap water. 

I have no idea whether it fits a 73. It came off a 76. Not sure if there are any differences. Send me a PM to discuss shipping.

Column and ignition out of a 76'. Does come with Key. Will remove dash panel upon sale for shipping. Also does not come with the wheel adapter. Buyer pays shipping or local pickup. 

Gauge Cluster out of my 76'. Speedo, Temps, Fuel, RPM and lights worked when removed from vehicle. Some hazing of the glass. Odometer intermittently worked. Buyer pays shipping or local pickup. 

22mm Front and 19mm rear

Weber 32/36 off my 76. Gave it a refresh a few years ago. Car was running when i pulled these off. Was last tuned in a PA summer. Buyer pays shipping or local pickup.

For sale is a set of front and rear ST sway bars for the 2002. Have drop-links for front and almost all the parts for the rear. Do have sub-frame mounts and bolts. Buyer pays shipping or local pickup. 

Dash out of my 76'. Does have a hole in it where a previous owner had installed an extra gauge cluster but no cracks. Has the ducts for air vents. Buyer pays shipping or local pickup. 

Currently building a racecar and figured id put out feelers in this group for parts before dropping the big bucks on brand new stuff from IE.

Engine:

Forged pistons (Lowish Compression)

HD Rockers

Stainless Valves (Stock Diameter)

HD Valve Springs

Aluminum Crank Pulley

Aluminum Flywheel

215mm solid plate Clutch

Modern style intake (Not twisty spagetti)

Suspension:

Adjustable Coilovers

Sway Bars

Front Big Brake Kit 15"

15x8 Wheels

Other items:

Fuel Cell (Prefer 15 Gallon)

Related turbo/efi application parts

Shoot me a message if you think you have something that might help me. Ill keep the list updated as i source things. Thanks for your help!

I think i have one that i was about to scrap. Ill try to get a pic for you. Its painted blue. 

If you call the new Stahl(ACP headers) and ask for Greg Stump he should be able to get you what you want. Greg is a great guy. Met him at the going out of business sale and have stayed friends since. He's helping me make a turbo manifold for my car. 

In this tread I will detail how to remove the sunroof structure in our cars in a way that causes very minimal damage to the chassis of the car.

This issue arose while building my 2002 into a race car. I wanted to maximize the vertical height of the cage and the sunroof channel was blocking 2" i could use to keep my noggin safe. I wanted to remove the structure but i did not want to hack up the entire roof trying to get it out. Below i will detail how i methodically persuaded sunroof to leave my car. 

To start i am going to assume that we are at the point where the actual sunroof panel, track, and slider mechanism have all been removed.  

Below is a picture of the sunroof structure already removed. What i want to point out are the 9 points highlighted in red boxes. These are areas where the structure is permanently welded to the frame of the car. 

When i removed the structure from the car i just cut through these tabs with the angle grinder as i was okay with leaving small tabs leftover attached to the chassis. However in the photo below it is possible to detach the tabs by drilling out the spot welds that i had uncovered with a wire wheel. 

After these tabs have been detached it is time to focus on the connections around the opening of the sunroof. Here we will find many more spot welds on the front and sides of the opening. 

For my purpose i drilled these out in their entirety as i will most likely be folding those lips over to where it wont be noticeable. After these spot weld are taken care of the only thing holding the structure in place is some adhesive and friction. Lets tackle the friction first.  The rear lip of the sunroof opening is actually folded over onto the structure. I used a combination of pry bars, screwdrivers and scrapers to get the lip up. 

I didn't have to get all of the lip up until i relieved most of the pressure but results will vary. The final task is to get the blow torch. The areas marked in green have a layer of adhesive between the structure and the roof.

I would apply some heat and then try to shove a puddy-knife in between to separate the adhesive from either side. Be careful on this step because too much heat will damage the paint. Below is a photo of the adhesive. 

Once you have worked your way around all the areas that have adhesive it still may take some wiggling and prying to finally get the structure to come free. The final steps are just touch up aesthetics depending on if you are okay with leaving the areas where the tabs were as is or to file them down or if you want to fold over the lips of the opening or patch the area with a new panel. 

Hopefully this helps some of you if you plan on doing something similar to me or you want to understand how the sunroof is held together. 

Thanks!

Could you post photos of your installation. Im looking at ordering a cage kit for my racecar build in the next few weeks. Just want to see how close it is in certain areas. Also the website doesn't provide a great deal of info on the design. 

This sounds a lot like my racecar build that i am working on. Im using a Motec M400 ECU for engine management, Individual coil packs, The Turbo from a Focus ST as well as the intercooler from it(I own an ST as a daily). I'm probably going to build a custom intake for the build. As for internals im looking at forged pistons in the 9.0 CR range, Heavy duty valve springs, and a 292 cam. 

20 minutes ago, TobyB said:

The question that you SHOULD ask is, how much can you do with your cage?  Most classes

above (and maybe now including) IT allow an attached front inner fender contact point, AND allow a pad up to 

100 square inches.  THIS is your winner.  Make that contact point as high as you can on 

the inner fender, make it attach right into the fold where the inner panel heads back, and then

do everything allowed in the rules to tie that cage bar to it, including a triangulating brace in the cage.

Then do the same thing at the floor.  Boxing is almost universally allowed- do it!

THEN use your door bar to make the side of the cage as rigid as you can.

 

I was going to get the cage from https://rollcagecomponents.com/bmw-2002-roll-cage-kit/ in 1.75 x 0.90 It will some with the X style door bars, Triangle foot bar, Rear down Diagonal Kit, and i will be adding tie ins to the front shock towers from the cage.

The class im racing in does not have any prohibitions on seam welding. Gridlife Touring Cup

"10) Chassis
a) No major modifications are allowed to the chassis, frame, unibody, floor, firewall, etc. unless
clearancing is required (must not benefit performance in any way), or strengthen/bracing is
needed. Non essential body/unibody items and trim may be removed for the purposes of
weight reduction. Major unibody (or frame for non unibody cars) structural items may not be
compromised or lightened. Material may be added to reinforce problem areas or known weak
areas on chassis, or repair crash damage, but full reconfiguration/”tube frame conversion” to
structural areas of unibody cars is not permitted.
b) Radiator supports may be replaced with fabricated items for purposes of fitment or repair to
chassis area, but general location of radiator must not be altered from factory.
c) Chassis suspension locating points may not be altered or modified. Reinforcement of pickup
points for longevity purposes is allowed, as is seam welding, but location shall not be changed.
In the case of live/solid axle RWD vehicles, suspension pickup points may be added to facilitate
converting to alternate axle locating method style (watts link , 4 link, panhard bar, etc) and
alternate spring/shock mounts may be used.

2 minutes ago, thinksound_mike said:

Body or suspension? I know some people box in the rear subframe and stitch the control arms, but I'm not sure about the body welds.

 

 

I think im okay on suspension. I plan on boxing the front and rear control arms. 

This is great! Thank you! I will be sure to do this.

I'm getting to the point in my 2002 race car conversion where i would like to seam weld the chassis before i add in the cage. I was wondering if i could get some advice in which seams are the most important/provide the most benefit. I would like to be as efficient as possible in my seams to save myself time while providing the most benefit. Any help would be appreciated!

P.S. Diagrams are very beneficial!

Still needed?

I have a whole gauge cluster with that speedo in it

I have one for a 76? Would that work or is there a difference?

Still needed?

Do you still need this? Id be willing to cut mine out.

Lots of 02 parts for sale. Getting rid of inventory left from a racecar build. Buyer pays shipping. Prefer pickup for large items but am willing to meet if close. All prices are negotiable!

New Sachs Clutch(215) - $50

New Bosch Starter - $75  SOLD

Radiator - $50

ANSA Muffler - $50 SOLD

Stahl Header - $75

Rear Quarter Glass - $40 each

H&R Sport Springs (3k miles) - $150  SOLD

Gauge Cluster - $80

Gas Cap (No Key) - $25

Wiper & Turn Signal Stalks - SOLD

Driver Side Mirror - $20 - SOLD

Dash (Has Hole in it) - $100

Corner Glass - $40 Each

Side Glass - $45 each  Sold

Tan Drivers Seat - $100 (pending )

Tan Passengers Seat - $100 (Pending)

Tan Rear Door Cards - $40 each

Hoosier Performance Engineering Belts (Expired) - $25

Gas Tank - $150

Pictures Upon Request

Hella Fog Lamps - $40 Pair SOLD

Tan Carpet Set - $75

Suspension Technologies Sway Bars (3k miles) - $200

Hood Hinges and Latch Bar - $40

Sunroof and rails - $100

Rear Window - $80

Wiper Fluid Bottle W/ Pump - $20 SOLD

Window Regulators = $50 each

Door Sill Covers - $50 SOLD

Again all prices are negotiable! Also will add as i find parts lying around. 

Looking for license Plate lights?