Jump to content

182kartracer

Solex
  • Posts

    157
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Everything posted by 182kartracer

  1. To those of you with cages in your car, can I remove this since I wont need it to support the shock. It seems to just be a source of rust as it almost was designed to trap water.
  2. I have no idea whether it fits a 73. It came off a 76. Not sure if there are any differences. Send me a PM to discuss shipping.
  3. Column and ignition out of a 76'. Does come with Key. Will remove dash panel upon sale for shipping. Also does not come with the wheel adapter. Buyer pays shipping or local pickup.
  4. Gauge Cluster out of my 76'. Speedo, Temps, Fuel, RPM and lights worked when removed from vehicle. Some hazing of the glass. Odometer intermittently worked. Buyer pays shipping or local pickup.
  5. For sale is a set of front and rear ST sway bars for the 2002. Have drop-links for front and almost all the parts for the rear. Do have sub-frame mounts and bolts. Buyer pays shipping or local pickup.
  6. Dash out of my 76'. Does have a hole in it where a previous owner had installed an extra gauge cluster but no cracks. Has the ducts for air vents. Buyer pays shipping or local pickup.
  7. Currently building a racecar and figured id put out feelers in this group for parts before dropping the big bucks on brand new stuff from IE. Engine: Forged pistons (Lowish Compression) HD Rockers Stainless Valves (Stock Diameter) HD Valve Springs Aluminum Crank Pulley Aluminum Flywheel 215mm solid plate Clutch Modern style intake (Not twisty spagetti) Suspension: Adjustable Coilovers Sway Bars Front Big Brake Kit 15" 15x8 Wheels Other items: Fuel Cell (Prefer 15 Gallon) Related turbo/efi application parts Shoot me a message if you think you have something that might help me. Ill keep the list updated as i source things. Thanks for your help!
  8. I think i have one that i was about to scrap. Ill try to get a pic for you. Its painted blue.
  9. If you call the new Stahl(ACP headers) and ask for Greg Stump he should be able to get you what you want. Greg is a great guy. Met him at the going out of business sale and have stayed friends since. He's helping me make a turbo manifold for my car.
  10. In this tread I will detail how to remove the sunroof structure in our cars in a way that causes very minimal damage to the chassis of the car. This issue arose while building my 2002 into a race car. I wanted to maximize the vertical height of the cage and the sunroof channel was blocking 2" i could use to keep my noggin safe. I wanted to remove the structure but i did not want to hack up the entire roof trying to get it out. Below i will detail how i methodically persuaded sunroof to leave my car. To start i am going to assume that we are at the point where the actual sunroof panel, track, and slider mechanism have all been removed. Below is a picture of the sunroof structure already removed. What i want to point out are the 9 points highlighted in red boxes. These are areas where the structure is permanently welded to the frame of the car. When i removed the structure from the car i just cut through these tabs with the angle grinder as i was okay with leaving small tabs leftover attached to the chassis. However in the photo below it is possible to detach the tabs by drilling out the spot welds that i had uncovered with a wire wheel. After these tabs have been detached it is time to focus on the connections around the opening of the sunroof. Here we will find many more spot welds on the front and sides of the opening. For my purpose i drilled these out in their entirety as i will most likely be folding those lips over to where it wont be noticeable. After these spot weld are taken care of the only thing holding the structure in place is some adhesive and friction. Lets tackle the friction first. The rear lip of the sunroof opening is actually folded over onto the structure. I used a combination of pry bars, screwdrivers and scrapers to get the lip up. I didn't have to get all of the lip up until i relieved most of the pressure but results will vary. The final task is to get the blow torch. The areas marked in green have a layer of adhesive between the structure and the roof. I would apply some heat and then try to shove a puddy-knife in between to separate the adhesive from either side. Be careful on this step because too much heat will damage the paint. Below is a photo of the adhesive. Once you have worked your way around all the areas that have adhesive it still may take some wiggling and prying to finally get the structure to come free. The final steps are just touch up aesthetics depending on if you are okay with leaving the areas where the tabs were as is or to file them down or if you want to fold over the lips of the opening or patch the area with a new panel. Hopefully this helps some of you if you plan on doing something similar to me or you want to understand how the sunroof is held together. Thanks!
  11. Could you post photos of your installation. Im looking at ordering a cage kit for my racecar build in the next few weeks. Just want to see how close it is in certain areas. Also the website doesn't provide a great deal of info on the design.
  12. This sounds a lot like my racecar build that i am working on. Im using a Motec M400 ECU for engine management, Individual coil packs, The Turbo from a Focus ST as well as the intercooler from it(I own an ST as a daily). I'm probably going to build a custom intake for the build. As for internals im looking at forged pistons in the 9.0 CR range, Heavy duty valve springs, and a 292 cam.
  13. I have a whole gauge cluster with that speedo in it
  14. I have one for a 76? Would that work or is there a difference?
  15. Do you still need this? Id be willing to cut mine out.
  16. Lots of 02 parts for sale. Getting rid of inventory left from a racecar build. Buyer pays shipping. Prefer pickup for large items but am willing to meet if close. All prices are negotiable! New Sachs Clutch(215) - $50 New Bosch Starter - $75 SOLD Radiator - $50 ANSA Muffler - $50 SOLD Stahl Header - $75 Rear Quarter Glass - $40 each H&R Sport Springs (3k miles) - $150 SOLD Gauge Cluster - $80 Gas Cap (No Key) - $25 Wiper & Turn Signal Stalks - SOLD Driver Side Mirror - $20 - SOLD Dash (Has Hole in it) - $100 Corner Glass - $40 Each Side Glass - $45 each Sold Tan Drivers Seat - $100 (pending ) Tan Passengers Seat - $100 (Pending) Tan Rear Door Cards - $40 each Hoosier Performance Engineering Belts (Expired) - $25 Gas Tank - $150 Pictures Upon Request Hella Fog Lamps - $40 Pair SOLD Tan Carpet Set - $75 Suspension Technologies Sway Bars (3k miles) - $200 Hood Hinges and Latch Bar - $40 Sunroof and rails - $100 Rear Window - $80 Wiper Fluid Bottle W/ Pump - $20 SOLD Window Regulators = $50 each Door Sill Covers - $50 SOLD Again all prices are negotiable! Also will add as i find parts lying around.
  17. As I mentioned before, the goal of this build is to build a car that meets the regulations of group 5 while implementing modern technology to make it faster. A set of the rules is located at https://argent.fia.com/web/fia-public.nsf/whistj?open . The specific rules im following are the 1976 versions since that is the year of my car. I will cover in brief the simplified versions of the rules as i have read them. I would ask if you have time please read them as well to make sure i haven't misinterpreted anything. The Main rules are in articles 268 and 269 Part A states the minimum acceptable weights as a dry weight(actually at end of race but lets add a safety factor) Part B ) The shape of the body must be retained but sections can be removed for weight savings. The Doors, hood and trunk may be made of different material but cannot change shape.All but windscreen material can be replaced. The Fenders are open but must retain the wheel arch shape and cover at least 180 around the tire and the full width of the tire. The interior is open but the driver should remain in the same area of the vehicle, with no sharp edges present. Part C) The block must be same as the original vehicle with displacement open. It must also be in the same orientation as the production vehicle. Part D) Gearbox and diff are open but should remain in same location in the vehicle Part E) The suspension type should be the same type as the production vehicle but points can change location Part F) Steering system is open Part G) Widths should match chart based on displacement Part H) Brakes are open Part I) There must be a safety cell. It may not be in drivers compartment or engine compartment. Part J) Aero Devices may not protrude out past the frontal projection of the car. Front splitter may not be longer than 10% of the wheelbase as measured from the furthest forward point on the original bodywork. It must also be installed below the plane of the wheel hub. The rear wing may not exceed 20% of the wheelbase as measured from the outermost part of the bodywork There are more rules in the earlier sections regarding cage material layout and size but that's a bit too technical for this post. Now time for me to explain the game plan. I have taken lots of inspiration from articles and pictures i have found on the internet. The most helpful was a speedhunters article on the Zakspeed Capri. It had great explanations as well as great pictures of the car less bodywork. http://www.speedhunters.com/2013/02/fire-breathing-neck-snapping-the-ultimate-capri/ Chassis - The main frame structure will rely on a 4130 Chomoly tube frame structure that will include all the major mounting points. This means both front and rear sub-frame structures disappear in order to reduce weight. Also the whole front clip will be removed. This frame structure allows for easier repair and modification to meet the needs of the car. It also increases the structural rigidity of the vehicle. This frame structure will also replace the rear of the car and provide safer mounting for the Rear wing and fuel cell. Suspension - Both ends of the car will have the original parts replaced by custom structures in order to reduce weight and have better kinematics since point dictation is free. Both ends will receive coil-overs with external reservoirs. Hubs will be upgrades to a modern 5 lug BMW setup in order to easier obtain aftermarket big brake kits and for easier choice of rims. Rims will stay a traditional 3 piece but with turbine fans in order to aid under-body air extraction. These wheels will be complimented with modern race rubber. Steering will be converted to forward mount Rack and Pinion Setup(I work for a steering company, its easy to get a spare one) Driveline - The Motor will stay an M10 Block but the head choice hasn't been finalized. The plan is to sleeve the engine down to 1.6 liter or a similar size that allows an already in production race piston. which will be paired to a lightweight con-rod. AS with the spirit of Group 5 the car will have a nice healthy turbo mounted to it. The goal is for around 450HP at the crank. The exhaust will have a side exit just before the passengers door. The Motor will also be equipped with a dry sump system and an external electric water pump. The Radiators will be moved rearward to in front of the rear wheels. This is because the front will have an oil cooler and intercooler. The transmission will be a 6 speed sequential that can either be set up for lever or paddle actuation. The rear differential will be from a newer BMW that can handle the power. The engine itself will be shifted back in the car balance out the weight and to reduce the rotational moment of inertia. Aero - The front will include a larger front spliter with side shields in order to maximize the available front downforce. This will transition into 2 small tunnels that open to the suspension area. The Front fenders will vent on top and out the back and include wing elements before the wheel to produce extra downforce. The side of the car will have large sideskirts in order to minimize air bleed over. The underside will be flat bottom until after the rear diff where a diffuser will be located. The diffuser will extend past the bodywork slightly to help with downforce. The rear fenders will house the radiators so they will have a forward intake and the air will be routed to vent in conjunction with the rear wing. Extra winglets will be mounted on the fender behind the wheel as well as the lower section of the fender will be used as a smaller diffuser section. The rear wing will be mounted with large endplates and in a location as to balance out the aero. All bodywork will be replaced with fiberglass except the roof. The doors hood and trunk will only change material not shape. Other - For safety and easy of use an airjack system will be mounted in the car. Also a fire suppression system will be mounted in the engine compartment. The dash will be replaced by a digital readout. The engine will be controlled by an aftermarket ECU from MOTEC. The race seat will be a proper FIA approved seat. The car will most likely look like Formula SAE met Group 5 which is basically whats happening. Let me know what feedback or questions you have about my plan. I haven't covered everything and there is still plenty of time to change things.
  18. Personally i say go all out and get it plated and then paint it. The plating will prevent rust even if the paint does get scratched off. But obviously thats a lot of $$$. If you do both subframes at the same time it might be well worth it.
  19. To clear this up more tan a year after i posted it, i ended up taking the crank to our universities machine shop and the crank is in fact bent/misaligned. Looks like time to find a new one.
  20. This is the car in question. Its a 1976 BMW 2002 that i bought senior year of high school for 4K. The car served me well and lasted 2 years as a daily and even manged a trip from PA to IN and back. When it returned i took it auto-crossing and binned the valve-train. I tried to fix it in the apartment parking lot but had no luck. This is where the tear down began.I ended up pulling the motor to try and rebuild it. Upon removing the engine i also tried embarking on other maintenance things such as bushings. As the car came further and further apart i found more and more rust. I also started to discover botched jobs that the previous owners did(i'm surprised a passenger didn't fall through the floor). I stopped work to head back to college and this is where i though long and hard about what wanted to do to the car. Did i want to restore it. Did i want to part it out and buy another one. What i finally decided on was that i wanted to turn it into a race car. I could replace lots of the metal with fiberglass to reduce weight and prevent rust, as well as make the car completely how i want to while having fun improving my skills. So this is where the journey of the Group 5 2002 begins.
  21. So what i have done is just order a new set from Ireland that should be original size. Hopefully this will solve my issues.
  22. I checked all the new bearings with Plastigauge and here are the results. Also that wear is from around 100 turns of the crank with assembly lube in place. Looks a bit excessive on 1 and 4 to me Here is a Picture of all the bearings with Cylinder 1 on the right, 1: Clearance of .025mm 4: Clearance of .073mm 2: Clearance of .025mm 3: Clearance of .051mm The 320i ones were not marked at all as to which cylinder they belong to so you are not loosing it. This may be the case. I checked my order from before and i didn't order anything other than stock but there is a chance they were an undersized set that i received I'm thinking my solution right now might just be to order another set of bearings and hoping that they fit better than what I received.
×
×
  • Create New...