mike472

Wish I knew you were there.  I've been down in Englewood for the past couple of weeks and I was up in the Sarasota area yesterday.  I could have gotten my classic BMW "fix" looking at those cars.  Damn! 

I welded mine shut and powder coated the whole pedal box and bracket.  Not too pretty but I don't think it'll rust

The accumulator is like the tank on an air compressor.  It stores air under pressure so there are no pulsations in the air supply and you have a nice reserve of air to take care of any sudden increases in demand.   You E28 pump can probably keep up but I'd rather not have a pump like that running without an accumulator.  It's probably easier on the pump to have that buffer in between too.

I have lots of accumulators on hydraulic pumps at work and they are a must for any hydraulic pump for the same reasons.  Keep your accumulator in the line even though you may not think you need it.  BMW put it there for a reason.

The BMWCCA tech sheet is a good place to start if you want to track your car.  I would add to the multitude of things already mentioned crawling under the car and checking your guibo, center bearing and tightening all bolts on guibo and allen bolts on CV joints in rear(if needed).  Front wheel bearings should be repacked with proper grease and adjusted.  Check steering box adjustment too. Adjust in small increments if you feel play in steering wheel.

I first tracked my 02 with NJ chapter in 1977.  Limerock was sort of our home track back then.  Now most school are at NJ motorsports park in Millville, NJ.

It is something you should do and as some other people mentioned here you will learn more then the guys driving their cars at 70%.  They may get the thrill of straightaway speed but you will learn about feeling the car through the steering wheel.  You won't get that close and personal with a power steering car.

On 5/15/2024 at 1:16 AM, uai said:

You are way overcarbed. 
Get a set of 40 dcoe and a corresponding Distributor and manifold.

You can try to get this running but it‘s a waste of time and money.

Think of drinking from a bucket unless you have a very large mouth a glass works better.
45 make sense when you're running a ported Engine with large valves and a 300° plus cam.
When you're running a stock Engine/cam  with raised compression 40s are the way to go.
And: you'll need a modded Distributor or at least a ti(i) distributor

I've been there and made this mistake buying 45's instead of 40's.  I'd sell the 45's and buy a set of 40's right now.  You might get them running better then they are now because something is badly wrong with your particular setup because your engine shouldn't be dying at rpm's past 1500, but they will never be fun at low speeds.

18 hours ago, Preyupy said:

There are so many possibilities.  You are sure the spark plug wires are correct, ignition timing is correct?  Show us a picture of the way your throttle linkage is hooked up. 

 

There are some basic Weber things you need to look at.  Where are the idle mixture screws set?  Close them all the way but DO NOT TIGHTEN THEM, gently turn them until they stop then open them 1.5-2 full turns out.  This should be a reasonable place to start.  There is also the possibility that the Aux Venturies are not installed correctly, they are held in place with a set screw and if it is not tight they can turn and or someone put them in backwards.  I've seen it more than a few times.  Back the idle speed screws out all the way on both carbs and make sure the throttle plates are closed.  If the linkage does not allow them both to be closed at teh same time you need to adjust the linkage until they do.  This is the starting point for balancing them.  

 

We all started somewhere working on cars and it is hard to advise you with limited information.  How good of a mechanic are you? We might assume that the basics are things that you have already gone over 3-4 times and you have a complicated 1 off problem or we might encourage you to make sure you have the firing order correct with your spark plug wires.  You installed the carbs?  Have you checked for Vacuum leaks?  What kind of gaskets did you use between the carbs and the manifolds?  The isolating type can be easy to mess up and you can have a major vacuum leak. 

 

A few places to start 

Preyupy is right in that there are quite a few things that could be wrong with your basic engine setup.  Sometimes it takes more then a basic level of expertise to figure it out too.  But many times it winds up being something other then the carbs.  As one of our contributors to the forum likes to say... "All of your carb problems are in the ignition"  It's true more often then you think.

If you do end up having to do a rebuild Metric Mechanic is a good place to go.  They may be a little pricey but they will build you a good box. 

If want to go for the gusto and you have a spare 4 speed laying around they can take that and your 5 speed and make the 5 speed's gearing shorter by 5% in 1st through 4th gears and still give you the nice OD 5th gear.  Plus other improvements they make to the box in general. Or, just do a stock rebuild of the 5 speed.

Find a good sunroof roundie Tii and paint it Colorado.  That would be easier then waiting.  Unless you're a collector and a stickler for originality.  You might wait forever to find a car in that spec.  When you find it it might be in really poor condition requiring a ton of money to make right.  A paint job is much simpler if the car is in good shape.  Trying to make all those stars align will be tough.

Heck, I would be happy to find a nice Colorado 02 sunroof roundie even if it wasn't a tii.  Then you could modify the crap out of it and not worry about ruining a good tii.

I have been involved in the Ham radio hobby since the late 60's.  I am W2CWK and have a pretty modern ham radio station.  I see most of those units are receivers of the 60-70's variety.  That type of vintage equipment is the ham radio community is affectionately known as "Boat Anchors" meaning really heavy.  That is mostly due to the huge and heavy power transformer used in most of them.  I'm glad you didn't try loading that in your 02.

Sounds like valve guides. If you really want to see if it’s valve guides take it up to about 50-60 or faster if you dare and take your foot off the gas and let the car coast. Do it in 3rd gear   When you back off look out your rear view mirror. Look for smoke then. Classic symptom of shot valve guides. This is after the engine is warm. You’ll really see it at high speeds when you back off. If this is the case you really need a complete top end valve job not just seals. You don’t take a head apart to do that without doing everything else. Go to a specialist like Korman or Someone like them to do it for you. 
Oil leak behind pulley is a seal that should come in a kit from Blunt for front cover. Best way to put it in is a press with proper sized socket. You can drive it in with a hammer but I like the press method better   Less chance of damaging the seal and it goes in straight without tipping 

8 hours ago, TobyB said:

uhhhh....Polymer said oil, and the water pump won't leak oil.

 

That said, having a water pump at hand isn't a bad idea, as they're still cheap and readily available.

 

John, you're leaking from the upper timing cover as well.  This can happen when the head and front upper cover 

aren't the same height, or when the upper cover hasn't been snugged down correctly- you need to just barely touch

the 6 front bolts, then snug the 2 down bolts, snug the front bolts, tighten the down bolts, and then tighten the 6 front bolts.

 

I've driven messier for ages- a bit of oil helps prevent rust.

 

t

 

Toby you’re right. If it’s oil it’s probably the upper cover.
Get the water pump anyway. I’ve driven messy motors too but  I’d give that motor a good cleaning before I started taking it apart. You don’t want any of that crud falling into the oil pan. 

Buy a water pump. That’s what’s leaking from under the fan hub. When you replace aluminum washer under bolt of “protruding thing” otherwise known as cam chain tensioner make sure you bleed it.  Once you bolt front cover back on and you’re just about ready to close things up, take an oil can with some fresh engine oil in it and squirt into the small cavity the tensioner sits in til it’s overflowing. Take a screwdriver and pump the piston in and let it spring out and keep doing it until you feel strong resistance when you do it. You will see bubbles coming out too. Once the bubbles stop and you feel the resistance get heavy, it’s bled. You don’t want to miss this small but important detail. 

You might want to check the condition of the plastic chain guides and tensioner rail along with cam chain, oil pump chain and sprocket's for cam chain on the crank and the  top sprocket bolted to cam while you have the cover off. Look for wear on the rubber part of the tensioner. Also take a look at how much slack there is in the oil pump chain. I took apart an engine with 60k on it and oil chain was stretched and had enough slack to just about hit the casting on one side. I had a bunch of shims but when you have to use too many like over 5, get a new chain. New chain was needed in this case with one shim. The cam chain, tensioner and plastic rails in that engine were still okay.  These are a little more involved to change. If you decide to do this set engine cam marks to top dead center. Do not just leave engine in some random position when and if you take the cam chain off. 

Come on guys, there’s still a little rubber left there. Just fill in with a little of Marty’s shizzle and you’ve got it

56 minutes ago, Pablo M said:

I sent him same, couple emails, DMs, also stalked him on FB and when I sent a message there he replied to my email lol.

I just got a set as well and found him to be a little late sometime but have bought two sets over last ten years plus a spoiler and have always found him to be reliable.  Much more cost effective to buy them.  You'd have a hard time making them as nice at home for the material, time and trouble.  They are heavy guage material that you're not going to bend too easily or get as nice a bend as the pro shop that makes these unless you own a really heavy break to bend it and a nice method of cutting either with plasma or something similar.  

20 minutes ago, AustrianVespaGuy said:

Yep, almost 4 years now and I like to think that old write up helped get me the job. So Mini has been my first 'new' ECU launch rather than just incremental revisions so I'm quite excited about it! So if you're ever in GA come on by the DIY shop and say hi!

You definitely helped me with tuning and throttle linkage. I can see why they hired you. Good luck Carl!

Just now, beammmer said:

Quote received from Just Dashes about three months ago was $3500 and 7 months for delivery.

 

Don

Not surprised.  I contacted them over 1 1/2 years ago

Call 718 370-2018 and speak to Javier.  Tell him you’re a friend of mine with a 2002 and you would like him to fix your dash. I’m about a mile away if you want some company or you want to see my cars.  They’re not big on having a website. There talent lies elsewhere 

Checked out "Justdashes.com" after seeing them on a Jay Leno episode.  They will do your 02 dash for about 2800.  Completely new skin vacuformed over your old foam after it's been repaired.  Beautiful work.  Saw some dashes on their website they had done for 02's and a CS.  I got mine done locally with my interior guy Brimar Upholstory for $700 with great result.  It had a few cracks and a hole I drilled in it to install a guage cluster to the right of the instrument binnacle were repaired and the texture was matched.  He then painted it with a vinyl paint which looks great.

Got a front and rear from W&N in 22 and it shipped in good shape first time out.  It was packed pretty well and looked like it stayed on the pallet it was originally put on with UPS

You could buy a Megasquirt ECU and use that instead.  It will work with all the components you have and is user friendly and has support.  I use it in one of my cars with almost the same setup as yours.  Do a search on the forum and you will see a lot of people here use MS and have posted a lot of interesting information on it including maps.

Don’t try to open up relays to clean them. Just buy three new ones. They’re cheap enough. That’s a good preventative maintenance thing. Especially in 50 year old cars 

You don’t need the harness for a 75. It might make your lights a little brighter but the wiring in the car now is good enough. If you had a 73 or earlier I’d say use it. 

6 minutes ago, zinz said:

You'd be better off shaving a bit off the outer diameter of the Guibo.  I did this on my '71 and that Guibo has gone almost 30,000 miles so far. It didn't take much to get good clearance. Rough sandpaper, or a sanding disc on a side grinder will get it done.

 

Ed

Ed is right about this method.  I didn't think of it but it's definitely less risky then trying to bend the shaft back.  I would only do that if you can't shift smoothly through the gears.  You don't want to put the trans in and then find out it's binding as you try to go through the gears.  After you do it I would check on it after a few hundred miles to make sure things are good and it's not rubbing.

Look for openings in your firewall under the dash.  Frequently the speedo cable grommet is missing where it passes through the firewall into the engine compartment.  Also the three rubber seals in your engine compartment have to be in good shape.  The two short ones on either side of the engine compartment near the windshield and the long one that goes across the underside of the hood the comes to rest on the body right in front of those two short ones.  Once you open windows in the car you create a vacuum within the car sucking all those fumes from your engine compartment into the ventilation system.  I'd say that's the likely culprit.

I'd make sure your transmission still can shift through all the gears.  Usually if you bent it that much it would affect the shifting.   You have almost no clearance at 1.8mm.  If you want to bend it up further you might try heating it but you will burn the seals and have to replace them.  If you try this I would take the seals out of the trans first.  You don't want to burn them and have them stuck in there.  You'll have to get it almost red hot before it will bend.  This is best done with trans out of the car.  Try to see where the bend is and put a small straight edge on it first to see how much it's bent and check as you bend it back to see how much you need to bend it.

I'm glad I bought 4 sets.  Installed on the Inka car and I'm going to change out the Marchal Ampilux lights on my other car.  I actually think these throw a little more light and have a great look to them.  Love that thick glass lense.