Billsmith

My car has two fuel pumps.  A manual fuel pump is located over the cylinder head and a separate electronic pump is located near the firewall.  The manual pump has a leaking gasket.  Gas is leaking onto the engine and there is a strong odor of gas.  The electronic pump is routed through the manual fuel pump.  Apparently this is as the car was originally manufactured.  I ordered a new OEM manual fuel pump and it is not the same size or shape as the old manual pump.  Is there any harm in bypassing the manual fuel pump and operating the car on a single electronic fuel pump.  I need help.

Mike,

Thanks to both of you.  My hazard switch had failed in the on position recently.  I twist tied it off but the button apparently was not all the way in.  When I jiggled the hazard button while activating the turn signals they worked.  Changing the old flasher to a new electronic flasher has also made the dash indicator lights work again.  All is well for now.  Thanks for the help.

1972 BMW 2002 - In an effort to get my inside turn signal lights working, I have caused my exterior turn signals to cease working.  Currently, with the switch off, the outside turn signals will light but not flash.  With the switch off, they will not light.  Assuming it was a faulty flasher, I replaced the original 4 wire flasher with a 3 wire electronic flasher.  I read a previous thread describing the wiring for the 4 wire and complied with it.  The new 3 wire electronic flasher has a P, X & L marking on the flasher.  I wired as follows:  P = black/white which controls the flasher indicator on the dash; X = green/violet, 12 volt input; L = green/yellow, load bulbs.  There is no where to put the ground wire on the new electronic flasher so I left it off per the earlier thread.  Still no turn signals, inside or out.  Emergency flashers work fine with key out or with ignition on.  All bulbs interior and exterior work on emergency flasher mode.  PLEASE HELP!!!

Additional information on above post.  The emergency flashers work inside and out including dash indicator and they work with or without switch on.

My turn signals quit working both exterior and dash indicator.  I replaced the flasher with an electronic three pronged unit with a three pronged plug and pigtail.  I carefully matched up the wires per a previous post on this site to convert from a 4 wire connector to a 3 wire connector.  I did not use the ground wire.  Now when the car is off and I move the lever to activate the turn signal, the exterior light comes on, it does not flash and the interior light does not flash.  When I turn the switch on, neither the exterior nor the interior lights come on.  I need help.  Thanks in advance.

I need a used, in good condition, piece of aluminum horizontal trim for my passenger side door.

I need a new lens in good condition. May include chrome assembly. Please email offers to billhighsmith@gmail.com

I am looking for a pair of headlight retainer rings for my 1972 BMW 2002. Please email photo and price to: Billhighsmith@gmail.com

JGEROCK.......Thanks for the pics.  That helps me understand what I am looking for.  I wonder where I could find some?

So would you recommend that the inside of the deep headlight liner be left natural aluminum as opposed to being painted black?

I am nearing the end of a 5 month exterior paint job on my 1972 BMW 2002.  A question has come up about the way the headlights set in the aluminum frame.  See attached photo.  Is this right?  It seems like the headlight should be aligned with the front of the aluminum headlight shroud.  Should the interior of the shroud be painted black?  Any help on this will be appreciated.

My 1972 BMW 2002 has developed what I think may be a carb problem but I need some advise. Recently the points and fuel filter were replaced. The engine ran flawlessly immediately after the replacement up until about 100 miles whereupon it just died while I was going 45 MPH and would not restart. With the use of some starter fluid, I was able to restart it and it ran flawlessly for about 15 miles whereupon it died while I was cruising at about 35 MPH and would not restart. I expect it could be restarted now with starter fluid and would again run for some unknown duration and then die on me again. It has spark but seems to randomly cut off while driving at full speed. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

I have a 1972 BMW 2002. Recently I removed the cowling under the dash to the left of the steering wheel to "take a look at the flasher". I found it to be just sort of dangling up in there. I looked at it but did not even unplug it. There appears to be some sort of metal clip on the side of it but it was not connected to anything. I swear. When I put things back together, I immediately noticed my flasher and turn signal lights on the dash were in operable. I changed the fuses but that did not help. I doubt that both lamps would have gone out at the precise moment that I "looked at" the flasher. I tried touching the metal clip to ground and that does not matter. Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated.

Keep the stock metal radiator. I just had mine rodded out at a cost of about $200. My radiator shop guy said they are having a lot of problems with cheap replacement radiators manufactured in China with no where near the quality of the original radiator. He strongly suggested that I recondition the old one. After the rod out was completed, I have noticed the temp gauge is about mid way when cruising at 70 mph. Before I had it rodded, the temp gauge at 70 mph was about 3/4. I guess the cores are copper so age must not adversely affect the cores but that nasty old scale build up sure had mine plugged up. The car has responded well to improved circulation. It runs noticeably cooler.

I recently purchased a 1972 BMW 2002. The engine is sound and powerful, transmission smooth, interior good and original. Undercarriage is very good for the age of the car. No rust underneath. It has sat under a shed for the last 15 years. The car has 95,000 documented miles. I paid $5,000 for the car. I am learning about rust. There are two or three spots about the size of a dime on the car. The two worst ones are just below the gutter above the right rear side window and on the left front just above the headlight, next to the left turn signal. The one on the front may require some steel be welded in after the rust is removed. All total, there are maybe 10 spots varying in size from pea sized to dime sized. My body guy thinks he can repair these spots and touch up the repaired areas to match the Polaris - Silver paint color that was applied when the car was repainted in 1989. The paint job is good except for the rust spots. My body guy wants $1,900 to do the repairs. My question is, would it be better for me to educate myself on DIY via You Tube and buy some Bondo at Autozone to tackle this issue for maybe 50 bucks or should I hire the professional and pay the price for the sake of the car. The professional is of the opinion that two of the spots could lead to future structural issues if ignored. Advice will be appreciated.

I have a 1972 and use 87 octane unleaded. I haven't had any problems yet. Have owned it for about one month.

I also have a 1972.

On the left there are two sliders. The top one has DEF on the left and OFF on the right. The bottom one has HEAT on the left and OFF on the right.

On the right there is one slider. COLD is on the left and WARM is on the right.

There is no color on my slider. Simple block letters are located below the slider in each case.

Gents,

For the life of me, I cannot figure out how to raise and lower the headrest. Any suggestions will be appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

Do I have to go with the 165R13 size for the speedometer to function correctly?

I just had the joy of discovering my local tire store cannot find the appropriate sized tires for my 'new' 1972 BMW 2002. They suggested I buy them online from Coker Tire. Any of you guys have any advice for me about tires? The tires that are on it have plenty of tread but the tire store suggested they are 6-8 years old and one day the tread would delaminate like a recap leaving only the steel belts. They are T-Meric by Goodyear. The tire store guy warned not to make long trips until the tires are replaced. Advice from those with knowledge or experience about tires will be greatly appreciated. Size, type, source, etc.

Thanks guys for the well thought out advice!

I just acquired a 1972 '02 and am brand new to this forum. It seems to be in great shape. Engine is strong, transmission smooth, has a total of 95,000 original miles on it. About six months ago, the seller had the head gasket blow resulting in a cracked head. The head was welded and ground as a repair. The seller advised me the car was not designed for interstate speeds. When I read the manual, it seems that is was designed for even higher speeds. My brain is telling me to keep it under 55 but my heart is saying get it up to 70. I haven't really had the car long enough to have complete confidence in it although in the 50 miles I have driven it, it has not tended to overheat and has plenty of power. Any advice for me regarding reasonable speeds will be appreciated.