GraysonHaugen

Fuel Inlet pipe fixed with a little roughing up and a dose of JB Weld. 

Fuel Filter Basket leak fixed with a little wrap of that white plumbers tape on threads.

 

Idle speed remains the mystery and I think.... I'll need to perform a rebuild. Running at a regular warm temperature, the car is idling at 2300 RPM. The mixture screw is set correctly and the idle speed screw is backed almost clllllllll the way out (see pictures). Can I adjust that large throttle knuckle over one notch to give myself some more idle screw to slow it down more? 

 

If not..

It comes to removing the carburetor and starting to take it apart. In terms of process, a few tips would be appreciated. Obviously I will tap into the wealth of knowledge already found on the form. but as I am taking apart a carburetor that hasn't even on a car in 10 years, maybe there are a few words of caution or pro tips for not totally boogering the rebuild. is there something that has a visual cue I should look for? 

 

all the best

For any of ya'll looking to instal a real sneaky choke cable, this is the tiny hole I was directed to by 'The Tinkerer' ? 

 

Manual Clutch Installation Tip: install it with one arm reaching around inside, and one arm in the engine bay. It was MUCH easy to thread the nut on without eyes but at least having two hands on either side of the fire wall. 

The second photo is the brass nipple for fuel which is press-fit into the weber casting. I don't know why or how it fell out but it did. I tried to forcibly press it back in (without removing the carb, lazily).. seemed promising to a coors light sipping rain soaked dingus who successfully installed their first choke cable. but alas it was leakier than a sieve. I suppose I wasn't that supplied. 

 

Wondering if tapping the weber casting is necessary or if there is an alternate threaded brass nipple with a hexed section I can just Rambo into the weber. My assumption is that the brass would be too soft to pull that off... EDIT: I FOUND SOME FINE FOLK ON THE FORUM WHO HAVE HAD AND RESOLVED SAID ISSUE. see link, HERE if interested 

Final thought: the brass cap on the bottom which also has a slight drip of fuel sneaking out holds like a cup a very fine mesh screen. this had quite a bit of sediment collected up around the screen which is all cleaned out now but I am afraid of overnighting, again, for the brass-resilience and my tendency to rambo-tighten to a point of disfunction. obviously within reason, is it okay to give this a good heave to seat it to a no leaking situation or am I faced with another parts replacement dilemma.
 

 
Also, if your distributor isn't healthy, it will make correctly configuring the carburetor a frustrating endeavor. When you know your static timing and advance functions are good, make sure you eliminate any possible vacuum leaks. A minor vacuum leak will make it difficult to set the idle speed and mixture correctly. I had a cracked cap on one small port and the idle wouldn't slow below 1000 even with the stop screw several millimeters away from the linkage.

Yes. I am having slowing the idle. The distributor has been converted to electric and works well.
Also, upon acceleration, the carb chokes a bit when the jets spray. I am assuming this is too rich but it doesn’t kill the car even when I’ve got the mixture screw in. Practically seated down.... sooo either I’m doing something wrong, the carb truly needs a full rebuild, or I am missing something big.

On a positive note, the choke is installed and works wonderfully.




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The early steering column surround is metal not plastic and has a hole for mounting the choke cable. I have an extra one if you're in the market. 
 
The manual choke 32/36 ship with different emulsion tubes than the water/electric choke models. I don't know why or what the difference, just something that redline told me recently.

Found the hole. Had a little rubber plug in it. Feeding cable thru now but the wire harness and steering column are making it extremely difficult to bolt from the back side.


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I went to Discount Import Auto Parts off of 99N going into Portland. which still supplies and orders all sorts of parts for weber carbs. 

I took a picture and parts number list of their Weber 32/36 DGV in case it was helpful. They had all the various diagrams for all the Weber's as well. 

 

 

On 5/15/2019 at 12:00 PM, '76mintgrün'02 said:

That'd be a red flag to me.  It implies having been wet.  Could mean white crusty nastiness inside.

 

Did the $250 one in the for sale section get away?  That one looked fresh.  You don't need the manifold, but could pass that along.  

 

 

Alright master tinkerer, I need to chew your ear for some direction. I am sticking with the manual choke (for now) on the weber. I went and bought an EMPI choke cable which I hope to run and mount today. Any pointers to where on the firewall I should feed the choke cable through? 

I'd like to mount low and out of sight / no dash mods as well. I am sure there have been many threads on this but I am not turning up much info on where to run the cable. 

direction is appreciated!

5 minutes ago, resra said:

Grayson, im so happy it's running the way it is without a rebuild! I didn't expect that since it has not been on a car for almost 10 years. I would suggest driving around a little bit with that carb on before dialing everything down.

 

Resra, Yes, I am quite pleased it fired up just fine. The control arm for the choke is a little loose and doesn't engage the butterflies very precisely, but I am not complaining. 

I need to sort out the little fuel leak from the brass nozzle before I take it for a spin I think! Should this just be re-seated with a gentle tap tap?

Any tips on tuning and dialing? Choke cable strategies? 

Best, 

GH 

Shoutout to @Resra for the Weber hookup!

Okay, 

I got the used Weber 32/36 with a manual choke. I've temporarily sealed the old coolant hoses that ran through the Solex until I can snag a water choke. Check out the remanence of the old gasket... That took a hot minute to razor off the manifold. 

I did not rebuild the carburetor. I just went for a quick bolt-on solution to see if it would run as is stood. Which it did. It fired right up. The manifold has not been port matched. I had to adjust the air filter housing to bolt on against the Weber.

 

Once the car warmed up, it idles a little high. and by high I mean like, 1300 RPM and the idle screw is backed almost all the way out. 

It looks like there is a little gas leakage on the brass nipple where the fuel like connects. I haven't poked around to see if it twists or needs tightening. 

I haven't tried to put the original air filter housing on yet. But I am assuming I'll need to cut a square out of the bottom of the pan to get it to rest on the mounting brackets.  Since the weber came with an air filter I may not fuss with that right now. What's a good condition air filter housing worth, anyways? 

150.00 plus ship. Excellent condition

Thanks but I’ve made a purchase already. Someone was kind enough to sell me a Spain made Weber 32/36 with the air filter + rebuild kit for $100.


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I have a 32/36 I’ll sell

Price? Condition? Pictures?




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I just watched all 3 parts today


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I have a good used Weber 32/36 carburetor and TWM manifold available.  Located in Vacaville,CA.  Email for pictures: shermanmartinez at Hotmail dot com

No word from you. Still for sale?


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It is the section with the four holes surrounding the circle that I am referring to. 

The washers don't bug me too much. Not having a car that runs / is an explosive fire hazard bugs me. If I purchased the carb with the manifold attached, would there be any strong need to replace the gasket in the photos we've been referencing? (that is a throttle body gasket, correct?) 

Okay, noted on the port matching with the manifold still attached. I am unaware of whether or not it has already been done to the manifold in question. Is the port matching absolutely necessary?

21 hours ago, iinca said:

now I'm getting bounced off the site...glitch asking for new email

 

please message me!

The same thing happened to me all day yesterday.. I just gave it another older email (not even associated with my account) and it stopped asking me. 

Obvi. you want to give it an email you still have access too. 

I hopped on to the forum on Monday (it's been awhile) to do some research and I couldn't find ANY thing! hahahaha. My timing is impeccable. happy to know the explanation though! 

Good to know. I think I'll steer clear of that. He did mention it just sat for a long time off of his car. I suppose the result implies the same cause. 

The $250.00 is still there. I am in communication with him. Discussing separating the manifold now actually. I did notice on the second to last photo in the ad (see link) there appears to be a vacuum or something missing.. On the lower left hand side. 

Also, I would love to stick with the water choke as opposed to the electric. but I guess I'm grounded until I get some sort of solution in the works! 

 

 
^ that photo shows the previous owner's hogging attempt. 

this was their sealing attempt

I traced that gasket and made one with two holes, then matched the intake to that.

 

 
There are a variety of ways to mount the stock filter, but try to retain the original mounting brackets and rubber standoffs; as opposed to just bolting it down to the top of the carb.

Hey, any idea on a Weber rebuild with frozen linkage? How bad is that situation or is that a major red flag altogether?




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^ that photo shows the previous owner's hogging attempt. 

this was their sealing attempt

I traced that gasket and made one with two holes, then matched the intake to that.

 

 
There are a variety of ways to mount the stock filter, but try to retain the original mounting brackets and rubber standoffs; as opposed to just bolting it down to the top of the carb.

Okay,

This is so so awesome and very appreciated! I’m actually getting real excited for this Weber swap. Just searching for a reasonable price for a carb! Don’t have a lot of financial wiggle room at this stage in life [emoji51][emoji23]

much appreciation!

GH


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Is this setup still available? 

Shoot me a PM I am in need of a replacement plug and play for my thrashed original Solex Carb. 

Hey, 

Not sure if this ad is still rocking. 

Looking for a donor Solex 32/32 carb or a functioning Solex 32/32. Or a functioning Weber 32/36. 

4 hours ago, shermanmartinez said:

I have a good used Weber 32/36 carburetor and TWM manifold available.  Located in Vacaville,CA.  Email for pictures: shermanmartinez at Hotmail dot com

Thanks, I sent an email your way. 

1 hour ago, TobyB said:

Gotta say....

 

those Solexes were taken off of almost new cars, and replaced with the earlier SINGLE BARREL carb,

just to give you an idea of how beloved they are not.

 

t

would suggest a Weber.  And yes, you can adapt the air cleaner with a little tin work.  It's worth it.

 

I am pulling a ton of varying prices on this carburetor There are manual choke options, electric choke options, DGV / DGEV, and all sorts of options advertised for specific car-make. 

 

Any advice you could lend in terms of which/what 32/36 Weber more specifically is the "right" (one or if it matters.) ?  I'm seeing prices from $150-$450..

Thanks!
 

1 minute ago, Conserv said:

My rule of them is that carbs need an overhaul every 4 years or 40,000 miles, whichever comes first....

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

 

That is a fantastic rule of thumb. I am a young buck who hasn't had a lot of experience or "trials by fire". Not to mention not one of my friends has ever owned a car older than the mid 90's, so I am just learning as I go! 

I have successfully navigated a long list of repairs and maintenance to this car which I am proud of the success I've had with doing everything for the first time based on a Chilton Manual. 

 

I'll add your rule of thumb to my fairly green list of rules. 

Hey all, 

You may have seen all the photos from my plead for help; Here. Major carb troubles. 

I am looking for a complete, or parted out carb. Upgrades are welcome. Grinding, mods, manifold manipulation are not things id like to do. A sweet and simple fix preferably original to the car. 

Take a look at my post in the hyperlink above and reply/shoot me a message! 

I am mechanically inclined but not a mechanic or a super know-how. in fact, I am a semi-broke college student who has figured out how to keep a car on the road since my first car which was a 1976 2002 over 15 years ago.

Help is much appreciated! steep prices are not a viable option for this guy though. 

Take care, 

GH

 

Really sad Pedro Racks seem to be no more. The website is kaput. Anyone have his contact information? 

No idea who that is but I still have both of these racks if you’re interested. In Portland area.


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