GraysonHaugen

 
Is it safe to assume you’ve never seen your ‘02 run, given the state of your carb?
 
If so, I would be tempted to find a complete carb off a car that was actually running, rebuild that carb, and swap it onto your car, leaving your carb as a spare...
 
Most carb parts exhibit no wear whatsoever (throttle shafts are a notable exception to this): choosing the better parts from two carbs might just make the process more confusing.
 
Regards,
 
Steve
 

You would think, my friend!

However, it’s been quite the contrary. I’ve been driving it for 8 years and only recently has it been giving me trouble. That’s when I went to go for a clean and tune up to discover the tough little solex was hanging on by a thread. I realized then it was far more than a tune up and clean that was needed.

It was a whole carburetor approximately a week ago!

Again, I appreciate the input and advice. The state of the carb was just a complete shock to me because I drove it to the location I took these pictures yesterday!



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1. Buy a rebuild kit.
2. Buy a spare twin to this carb for parts (by posting a WTB ad in the classifieds section of this forum).
3. Buy a bucket of carburetor parts cleaner.
4. If you don’t have access to compressed air (from a compressor), by a few cans of compressed air.
5. Rebuild the carb, taking photos before, during, and after to aid in your re-assembly.
6. As you remove adjustment screws, measure or note how many turns they are off their seats.
 
Or...
 
Find someone to do this for you!
 
Regards,
 
Steve
 
 
 
 

Appreciate the breakdown, Steve. I like cut and dry.

I have what I need to rebuild, minus the spare parts.

Will post to the classifieds section. I suppose I’ll try to link this post and the WTB ad together so the seller may have a better picture of what I’m looking for.

Would you suggest doing a double disassembly (assuming I get a whole spare carb) and picking/ choosing as I reassemble?




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If you want to stick with the Solex. I would place a Want To Buy ad on this board and see if anyone has a more complete carb to use as a base. Rebuild kits will be available but you may be starting from too low a base. 
 
Personally I would put a Weber 32/36 on it but I understand if you want to stay original. 

Thanks for the feedback! I will put an ad up and see what happens.

I would love to stay original but I am not totally opposed to an upgrade. Honestly, I love the big old air filter. Would the Weber 32/36 require any modifications on the manifold?




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Getting at the hero shots. If you compare it with the "I just purchased a car from an elderly lady" to the current state of the car, it's pretty rad! it's not as far along as I would like after nearly 8 years. But these cars are spendy and i've had a couple real doozies where the people of Portland are terrible at parallel parking and set me back heavily. hahaha. 
?
A couple iPhone photos I've taken:::

Hey Guys,

 

I've got a carb situation on my hands that is the, "I am lucky stuff didn't burst into flames" severity. I need some help as carbs is something I've very little experience with aside from small adjustments/tuning. 
My problems consist of:

1. completely missing my secondary throttle rod.
2. open butterfly
3. poor engagement and slipping inside choke / throttle / butterfly

and most importantly; 

4. gas leakage from throttle body, lower throttle rod assembly throttle valve stud, and idle air valve (I THINK!). 

 I would greatly appreciate suggested plans of action / possible parts availability / links to similar threads. I'd be stoked if ya'll had a few old donor bits lying around or possibly best / straight-forward replacements.  I don't want to do any grinding or mods on the intake manifold and I'd love to stick with the original 32/32 carb (whether it be replaced entirely or rebuilt). its unfortunate I am missing parts putting me past a simple rebuild kit... but I don't even know if it will be worth the rebuild as I've never done it before and I've heard of to many horror stories of rebuilding and failing 4-5 times in a row. 

I know the whole thing is is super grimy. A clean up is fully intended. 

Let me know your thoughts! I would even appreciate a text or call if you've got the time.  Located in Portland, Oregon. 

Grayson

Freshly bathed on a sunny Saturday ✨

New cables in! Grounds checked and cleaned, fresh bungee for those of you who were digging at my ratty old one  

i do have the battery clamp, but there isn't enough room on the tray to use it with the battery I have now. FYI. 

 

Took it to a battery shop and had them check the system- they said everything checked off. Voltage reg is good, battery is good, alternator is good (not a live feed for voltage output but he said it gave him the green light). 

 

I hope the new cables and clean ground is the solution. 

 

If not- I'll be back on here and probably

movint forward with an alternator swap. 

 

Any idea what that thing is on the last photo? A horn relay??

18 hours ago, Buckeye said:

Do you have a ground wire connected from alternator to the oil filter housing or engine block?

Does telltail light in the cluster stays on while engine is running?

It is grounded to the engine block- and I cleaned that contact when I replaced the starter motor- of course it could be a little grimy over two years. No lights in the cluster stay on while the engine is running? They all work properly. 

I have another one of these bad boys- only two of them- custom fabrication by a guy local to myself. For sale - 2 of a kind

 

also, a vintage tule ski rack

 

pm me if interested. Rather not ship for obvious reasons. Located in Portland 

2 hours ago, HBChris said:

I would buy a new internally regulated alternator and bypass the external regulator, leave it there for looks.  The three wires between the regulator and alternator may be exposed and grounding each other, it's a very common issue, wires get brittle and they are hidden under a plastic sleeve or tape.  Check them out first, good luck.

 

(and buy a new factory positive and negative cable, those look like crap, the positive is an aftermarket kluge)

Thanks for the quick response HBChris! 

 

I ordered both cables ($80.00!! That was way more than I had expected.) 

 

I'm curious to know if you would recommend a particular alternator with an internal voltage regulator -- any suggestions? 

 

Thanks! 

72 Golf is my currently daily driver and has been for 6+ years

76 Verona sunroof automatic was my first 2002. 

72 Sahara was a doner car I picked up for fixing my Golf up. 

73 Atlantik sunroof automatic I still have and is for sale. ☺

Hey guys,

 

i am troubled and frustrated - I replaced my battery and voltage regulator (a nice Beru regulator and fitted autozone battery (Duralast?)) because initially it popped both my headlights and the same time whilst driving in the dark (fortunately my high-beams worked enough to get me home).

i noticed my battery was puffy so that's when I replaced the reg. and bat. And headlights. 

 

This worked for 2 months and then my new battery literally exploded. Terrible egg smell, battery adic instantly corroded my battery tray and radiator. 

 

Once I got the battery out I gave my engine bay a baking soda scrub down and rinsed - fortunately autozone has excellent warranty coverage so I got a free battery and drove my car over to them to check the system- they said my 2 month old beru V-reg was dead and in the 1mi drive over to them it also killed the new battery the just gave me. So I replaced both again (oh yes, my headlights popped again...) 

 

anyways, all said and done, they have me the green light and said all systems were working properly and no over charge was occurring. I drove it for 3 days and low and behold my battery broke AGAIN. 

 

So so now I need help. Wtf is going on? I had my alternator rebuilt 3 years ago and it has never given me this trouble... and you'd think the v-reg would be doing its job but instead it just breaks. 

 

 

(Also, the atlatik automatic sunroof 73 as seen in pics is for sale. $3500 BaT -after rebuilding calipers and replacing master break  cylinder I haven't bled the brakes... and some dummy pushed my break peddle and sucked a bunch of air in the lines. More pics if re-quested)

Hello 02 community, I have been very inactive in terms of posting on this forum, however I've accessed the helpful information many times for various projects.

Now I'm in a predicament in which I'd love some advice and feedback in reguards to the value of my car before and after a side swipe delt by a large cargo truck.

I am currently driving a 1972 golf yellow 2002 with extensive suspension work, and tasteful/general upkeep and upgrades to the mechanics. The car was a straight, clean daily driver for me and has been for nearly 5 years in the surrounding Portland Oregon area.

The damage done was while I was parallel parked downtown and the rear bumper gouged the driver side fender, hood, nose, deep enough to also crunch the grill area surrounding my headlight and rip the turning indicator off of my car and chrome trim along the edge of the hood.

The insurance company wants to cut me a check for $4,500 and total my car.

I'm on a mobile device right now and will post pictures as soon as I can access a computer or figure out how to upload them to this thread now.

My objective is to have enthusiasts and "seasoned vets" help with formulating an articulate response to get my car back on the road as she once was. If you have more questions about the work done to my car in the past, feel free to ask and I will expand on this.

Thanks so much for your help!

~Grayson

Ps, if I've posted this in the wrong location, let me know and I'll relocate!

Hey, quick and urgent question- are the sub frames to a 72 and a 76 the same? Or even more specifically- the cross members?

Thanks!!

Burning 1 QT. Oil for 250 MI.

I am pretty sure I am going to need to re-hone my Cylinders and get a larger pistons.

Valve Guid Seals also probably need to get replaced as well. Might as well. Right?

Unfortunately I am pretty new at this and I don't have many contacts for mechanics that specialize in these cars. Also, Sense I have never done anything like this, I have no idea what this will cost me (Or what it realistically SHOULD cost me.)

I am Located in Portland, Oregon. And I know there are a lot of 02 shops around here.

Are there any preferred/dependable/good work/cheaper labor (I know, I know, I am dreaming here.) Shops around here?

Please let me know!

Hey Guys, Lots of response to this post which is cool, thanks for your support and stuff.

It would be helpful if you guys could specify price offers with the items you would like to purchase, Also I will not pay for shipping, If its your part and your buying it, Then imma let you guys work out the shipping

I am in Portland Oregon, if that helps for shipping arrangements

Yes sir I did, Thanks

Try that.

My car is finished being repaired and I am looking for a few parts for it

First, A vintage chrome roof rack, much like an old vw rack?

second, I have original front fog lights but I want a round red tail light/ fog light that goes into the bumper.

I want to install stereo deck inside glove box, so trips on how to do that, tips on how to install foglight switches, that would be awesome

Parts from parts car for sale here

http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/cto/2564045701.html

From Scrapbook Photos

http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/cto/2564045701.html

Read the add, check out the photo album, email me THROUGH the add,

and please specify whether or not you found the add through this forum, so I know to take you seriously.

thanks guys,

Grayson

Yeah no problem, is this what you're talking about?

I have one like so: http://lh3.ggpht.com/_J7qOyOZix0w/SjsXNKP_mVI/AAAAAAAAEKg/u2owcoR6zns/s800/IMG_6278.JPG

If your looking for functionality, email me at: Grayboy@gmail.com

I have front and back bumpers, chrome, off a 72. straight, and all hardware there. there is some rust penetrating the chrome on the front driver-side on the bottom.

Let me know if your interested. my email is: Grayboy@gmail.com

Does the year matter? I have everything there for a 72. including the chrome too.. but you already have that

My insurance company. Haha

Yes , i don't think i can drive this chevy Aveo any longer.. I'm determined.