M3This

Here is a screen shot of what I used:

However, I can't confirm that's the master cylinder we went with as I just sent to list over to Matt @Ronin Autowerks and he ordered everything up since they did the fab and install on my car. I'm running the IE 13" Wilwood BBK on my car for reference so Matt sized it based on that. I'm pretty sure if you call Tilton and tell them the brake sizes they can help recommend the correct master cylinder sizes. 

EDIT: here is link to photos of what they look like installed: 

Kris Derentz (@kris.derentz) • Instagram photos and videos

WWW.INSTAGRAM.COM

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159 likes, 15 comments - kris.derentz on July 1, 2023: "Posted this earlier in my stories but here are some better shots of the floor boards back from po..."

On 11/11/2023 at 7:01 AM, lunarkingdom said:

which one is the front windshield the green one or the clear one?

To be honest Im not sure I can’t remember as I didn’t label them when I removed them. If anyone knows a easy way to tell them apart I’m happy to look closer

Hi All,

Sorry for the late reply.  I had surgery before the holiday so been out of commission a bit. 
 

Im happy to ship the glass except for the windshield and rear window as Im not sure the best way to package that without extensive packing and shipping costs. 
 

pick up is always available here in Boise. 

I’m interested to see who comes up with the best seals as I think as of today the OEM BMW ones are NLA. So right not the only choice is URO. 
 

I tried ordering OEM from getbmwparts.com and they came back and cancelled the order and old me they were NLA. Was able to still grab all the window seals but it looks like we are SOL on doors. 

Hood that I pulled of my car when I got it. Has two layers of paint on it so likely needs to be stripped and repainted. Includes hinge as well. Pick Up only. 

Used, working radiator that was pulled out of my car. In the process of a S14 swap so switching to a E30 Radiator. Willing to ship, buyer pays shipping.

Hi Guys,

I have all the glass out of my car and ordered all new glass since only half of these match, so If anyone is interested in single pieces please let me know. 

Windshield: $125

Rear Window" $125

Vent Windows: $85 each

Door Windows: $85 each

Rear 1/4 Windows: $75 each 

All costs plus shipping 

On 10/11/2023 at 5:31 PM, Lucky 7 said:

Yeah man, happy to help.  Keep in mind that I’m just leaning, so my process may be far from correct. I did watch some YouTube videos, so I can’t be that far off.🤣

 

Here’s how I did it:

 

Step one:  start by running the standard blind running stitch along the seam. Fabric is face-to-face with the stitch line along the back. I’d recommend having the stitch run 3/8” back from the edge (you’ll see why in a second). I learned that for this stitch, match the thread to the fabric, in my case black. 

 

Step two:  spray tack the ends over so they’re down flat next to the seam. Not too much spray, it really only needs to stay down for a minute or two. 

 

Step three: now you run your topstitch.  Contrasting thread is nice, but to each their own taste. I did mine 1/8” offset from the  blind seam. There’s a marker on the deck, but it gets covered by the fabric so I put a tape marker on the foot.  
 

Worth noting for this stitch run, use a longer stitch length. Most home machines max out at 4, use that. You want your French stitches to have some nice separation.  You can see how I’m keeping the original blind seam on my tape marker. 

 

Step four: enjoy!

 

The straight seams are pretty easy actually, but I found that it gets much more complicated when the seam gets curvy.  Go slow and you’ll do okay. 
 

 

Hope that helps. Like I say, I’m just learning, but I’m getting more comfortable each day. At first it took me half an hour to get the damn machine threaded!🤦‍♂️

 

My father use to do upholstery in the 70s (motorcycle seats and VWs) when he was in college and I have always wanted him to teach me.  I feel like this is a skill most guys overlook but is a really valuable skill to have. 
 

Great work on teaching yourself and it looks your doing an amazing job for just learning. 

Hi guys,

took my steering column completely apart and had it media blasted and powder coated and then rebuilt everything with a new bearing. 
 

With that said it seems like it’s locked 🔒 I still haven’t reinstalled the ignition switch back in the main housing so is it locked by default and the once the ignition switch is back in and I turn the key it will unlock? 
 

Got the rear brakes done and fixed a spacing issue I had with the front ones. 
 

Also got the wheels on and the car back on the ground for the first time in over 2 years

44 minutes ago, HobieDog said:

Love seeing updates on your build.  
 

What’s the story with the frame welded in above the floor pan?

I have aluminum floor boards that mount on them to raise the heels up a bit for the hanging pedals. 

Yesterday I got the KWs installed on the rear of the car:

and today I worked on the steering column got the new bearing in, removed all the rust on the hardware and reinstalled, and got everything in the car with the Momo steering wheel. 
 

IMG_0067.dng

5 hours ago, rrost said:

Are you still looking for 678?

I am! If you can help that would be awesome 

Found two pieces, still looking for a couple more. 

Would even be open to a complete steering column if available. 

Do you happen to have any other parts off the steering column assembly?  
 

looking for 8, 9 and 10 as well as:

6, 7, & 8

Hi guys looking for #8, (the turn signal cancellation ring)
 

also looking for #6, #7, #8  on the diagram below (the brackets that mount the steering column on the dash support):

let me know if you have one or all. Thanks 🙏🏻 

9 hours ago, 2002iii said:

8. Is the turn signal cancel ring.

9. I think is the plate that goes between the column and switches.

10. not sure maybe from early cars?

yeah according to real OEM they are all NLA. Just didn’t know if the best way to find them would be to post up in the parts wanted forum of it anyone else had a recommendation. 

Got the headlight buckets mounted and  now waiting on the grills to come back from refurbishment

also started reassembly of the steering column. Got it back from powdercoat and installed the new bearing. Just need to clean up the old hardware. 

Also does anyone know where to get 8, 9, 10 from? As I can’t find mine or maybe my car didn’t come with them. 
 

20 minutes ago, Mark92131 said:

I recently installed the MVP beltline trim, fitment was very good and installation was quick and easy.  They have a video on Youtube that was very helpful.  I also installed one of the MVP rear bumpers.  You can read my review below.

 

Mark92131

 

 

 

+1 on MVP. I have their entire trim set on my car and everything fit fantastic. 

4 hours ago, PapaG said:

I think I got a thin flat head screwdriver to spread the gap and gently pushed it out of the groove with a second screwdriver. It is difficult but that is what I recall doing.

 

Thanks. I was able to get it off, but man what a PIA. 

Has anyone used real C-clips when putting it back on instead? They at least would be easier to remove if ever needed to do it again. 

21 minutes ago, Son of Marty said:

Good call on using Philips head screws on the retaining ring just spent about a hour Dremeling off 4 of the 6 slotted factory screws pain in the ass.

I had to do that to get them apart for plating. what a PIA. I just ended up buying IE’s rebuilt kits which came with the Philips heads and all new hardware for the rest of the buckets.

I took my steering column part for a rebuild and installed my led headlights into the buckets. 
 

Anyone have tips on removing the C clip above the spring? Normal c-clip pliers don’t work. 

50 minutes ago, TobyB said:

My first thought:  yeah, but 12 pounds off the roof won't make much difference in anything but a race car.

 

My second thought: if I EVER manage to get a race car upside down, the LAST thing I want is a Farbin Kaiber roof panel.

 

t

survivability is sometimes a concern

the steel frame is still there it just replaces the sheet metal and carbon is just as strong. Hence why it’s used in every race car. 

On 8/28/2023 at 2:14 PM, Leucadian said:

If you're not looking to keep everything stock, Son of Cobra will sell you a nice CF roof.  If you're not a fan of CF, you can always paint it and still benefit from the weight savings.

 

BMW 2002 Carbon fiber Roof — SON OF COBRA

WWW.SONOFCOBRA.COM

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Lightweight carbon fiber roof skin for BMW 2002 e10 1966-77. Weight: 3.2kg (7lbs) Weight saving: 8.2kg (18lbs) non-sunroof Also Epoxy Fiberglass is available and ideal for vintage racing (banning modern carbon fiber composites). Our construction is lighter and stiffer...

 

 

+1 for Paul’s roof. I have it on my car and it’s painted so you can’t tell it’s carbon. Also reduces weight at the highest point of the car for better handling 🤘🏻