josh72ooh2

Set of chrome bumpers and over riders pulled off my 1972 2002. 

The front bumper is straight.  Chrome good.  Slight scratches but no rust.  Has a thumb print ding in the front which would be hidden by the license plate frame (I had no idea it was there until I pulled the license plate off).  Over riders are good.  Good for a daily rider. 

The rear bumper is straight. Chrome is pitted and flaking.  Good core for a re-chrome, or to be painted.  

Over Riders have better chrome. 

$400 takes it all.  Or best offer.

Good question. I had no idea tii pedals were different. I need a bit more travel in the arm that extends off the pedal box and if a pedal could do that, it would be great.

regardless, I plan to extend the arm soon. about an inch would help me get more travel with the throttle cable. 

Great job. I was just about to search out alarm technology to see if any of this changed from 10 years ago when I installed mine. My doors are apart and I am going to revise some of my install.  
 

after seeing this, I will try to move all the control bits to the trunk. Mine was under the dash and in the way. 
 

One thing I did was install relays so one click of the remote opens the DS door lock, two clicks opens the passenger side.
One click of the lock button will lock both sides. 
Somewhere I have a diagram for it and I will share it. 

Thanks!  I am seeing 2 approaches.  One is to coat the whole car with sound deadening material, the other is to be more strategic.  I'm not going to to crazy with several layers but I do think that while the car is apart, I'll add some material to help insulate it a bit.  Kilmat arrived today as well as some Amazon rollers.  

Thanks. I am going with Kilmat because it is cheaper but the Dynamat photos help.  

My car is in the middle of body/work and paint and I'm thinking this is a good time to install sound deadening material while everything is apart. 

I ordered some Killmat from Amazon. 

I'm looking for install photos for inspiration.  I plan to do the doors, rear quarter panels under the windows, and under the rear seat.   Are people making cardboard templates to fit perfectly into some areas? Or just cake it on..?  

yes, Still available. No I do not have the passenger side. 

This has been sitting about 20 years. Never mounted.  Actual BMW part with the part sticker still attached.  

Part number 41-35-1-837-037

Should fit '69-76 2002s.  

$1800

These are NLA in America (i looked everywhere).  WN won't ship them to the USA. 

Bump.  Anybody interested??

Can you MVP guys speak towards the longevity of their trim kit?  For other makes of cars, aftermarket trim kits like that usually fade or get milky within a few years.  I'm hoping their trim will last.  

$1800 is the price. Located in Ventura, CA

Check out the photos.  Been sitting for about 20 years.  Never mounted. 

48 minutes ago, m-tuner said:

pictures,  I have had these 30 years, removed them from a 1600 that was covered in new fenders, quarter pannels, rear back pannel,car was too rusty to build, so i parted it out 

Are those NOS or used? Or do you have 2 sets?

the original ad says NOS. 

I PM’d you. I need a left side rear panel. Maybe the right too. WN won’t ship to the USA.
 I’m in CA. Thanks! 
 

6 hours ago, pierre02ti said:

Look in parts for sale

Thanks and I have... but some of the current listings are across the country.  Not sure if it's worth it. 

I need a good rear panel, and good rear side panels from the door to the tail lights. 

Wrong coast!  Dang it. 

Very expensive to buy new from Europe.  I'm in southern california, looking for an alternative.  
My car is a '72, 2002. 

On 8/24/2023 at 8:42 AM, shermanmartinez said:

I have several of those pieces available.  If you are on the cheap you can simply remove the part and remove material from one or both sides of the pinch area and it will then create a smaller diameter around the shaft when tightened.

I sent you a message. I’d love to buy one of those levers from you. 

An update - I took the pedal box lever off and the splines on the lever are gone. I’m guessing the lever slipped over time to give me less play. The splines coming out of the pedal box are there,  but not great.  I was able to adjust the lever a few degrees and tighten the pinch bolt. Then I had to adjust the cable a bit. It certainly pulls the throttle body lever much more now. Still could go further. I’d say I’m getting almost 2/3-3/4 of the total throttle body lever’s travel. 

I hope to get another pedal box lever (anybody have a spare to sell?) with good splines and extend it another half inch or so from my current lever. That should get me the additional cable pull I need and more Zooooom! 
 

Picture here is for reference. My splines are stripped on my lever.

Fwiw, This is for a fuel injection set up. I might have to weld an extra bit of material on it to lengthen the lever. 
 

I’m in Ventura CA. 

1 hour ago, TobyB said:

Pardon me if I'm being dense, here- are you at the limit of travel on the INSIDE of the car?

 

As in, can you simply rotate the external pullrod, shown in your pic above, on the threads of the shaft that goes

through the bucket into the car?   Thus, raising the static position of the pedal.

That will give you more travel, up until the internal position of

the bent rod's at too steep an angle to effectively slide on the pedal.

 

Otherwise, yes, lengthen the pullrod from the pedal (is there room?)

 

But in your video, I'm only seeing maybe 1.5" of cable movement indicated-

the stock- length pullrod moves easily that far in normal, cable- operated rod setups.

So I think your pullrod's slipped.  It's a common problem...

And without seeing how your cable's attached, below, it's hard to offer more insight...

 

t

 

Yes, that rod that slides behind the foot pedal does a full travel, from low to high. 

And yes, it is nearly exactly 1.5" of movement on the external rod from top cable position to low when my son steps on the pedal (and I'm under the car measuring). 
 

I do believe that adjusting the external rod on the pedalbox spline could get me a wee bit more travel. I am going to try that first.  

I have a serious phobia of working under cars unless it is on a lift... but I'll try to slip under there next weekend and see what I can fiddle with. 
 

11 minutes ago, Mark92131 said:

You would get more pull if the cable connection at the lever was more vertical instead of inline with the lever itself. 

 

 

 

So in theory, I could lengthen the cable a bit and adjust that pedal box arm on the splines so it is more inline (parallel) with the master cylinder and get a bit more pull out of the cable by having it pull straight down? 

 

Here’s a photo of what’s on the pedal end. I’m wondering if some sort of pulley system might increase the pull necessary for the throttle body. 
 

or… what if I welded another two inches onto the pedal arm so it pulls more when I step on it? 
 

Just now, Dudeland said:

You may be able to extend the lever by the pedal box.  Do you have much slack?

That was a thought I had to but not sure it will give me everything I need. The cable has Barely any slack at all. 

54 minutes ago, colorobo2002 said:

Let's see the other end of the cable and how it’s attavhed there.

It’s at my friends shop an hour away. Next time I’m there, I’ll try to get the pedal box off and see. 
 

I'm curious what others have done to solve this.