FunkyLaneO

Still available from BMW (I know because I broke a couple)

M12X1,5X43

Part number: 33413604178

The later cars had a little hole in the valve so that water wouldn't sit in there and rot away your heater core, it allows minimal flow and you can feel it if you touch the core but it doesn't noticeably warm the air.  The earlier cars had valves that sealed completely and I guess there were problems with cars that never turned the heater on so they updated the valve, not sure what year they did that.

Yup, TDF horn by Fiamm, same ones I have in my car.  I set up a relay that is driven off the rear defroster switch (since those never work and I live in Southern California where it is never needed anyway) that switches the horn button on my steering wheel between the tour horn and the original stock BMW horn.

Here is a thread discussing these horns:

All the wiring encased in blue vinyl is part of the emissions loom, I believe those relays are part of the emissions system as well, they control the magnetic valves (which appear to be removed and why those wires are not plugged into anything) check the emissions system diagrams and do a search for desmog and you can see what can be removed. The only wire in that loom that is required for the car to run is the resistor wire that goes to the coil.

That was posted on 4/23, pretty sure it has been picked clean by now. Whenever I race down to the pick-n-pull for a new e21 somebody always beats me to it, they usually put them out the day before they post them online and word gets out fast.

The ignition wire does go to the fuse box but it is not fused, it is plugged in on the feed side of the fuses.

You have a blue coil so you no longer need the resistor wire, a regular wire is all that is needed, blue coils have an internal resistor and adding a resistor wire would introduce too much resistance and create a weaker spark.

10 hours ago, TobyB said:

Reminds me, I need to make one for the race car.

 

I THINK I have 3 wires around somewhere....

 

t

Less Ismore

All the same color of course.  Because race car,

Is your key in the on position when you are testing? If you car is pre-74 then your turn stalk will activate the single side parking lights, if you are bridging the contacts with the key off then what you should see is solid lights on one side of the car.

If you hazards work then the relay should not be your issue.

My experience is if the piston was cracked or a ring land busted then it would likely be smoking like crazy.  Was it blowing smoke when it started running rough?  Like was said before, that damage to the piston could be old and not really a problem, I have taken apart an engine where a spark plug electrode had broken off and bounced around inside and left little dings all over the top of the piston and the head but it didn't happen while I owned the car and I had been running it for tens of thousands of miles with no issue.

Do a compression or leakdown check, if it looks decent you can and put a new plug in and see how it runs.

If you still suspect the relay, test it by applying power and ground to the 85 and 86 terminals (they are usually labeled and it doesn't matter which is ground and which is power) it will click if it works.  If it is indeed dead let me know, I will send you one.

That looks like a standard relay from the era, I usually grab a handful of them from the Pick-n-Pull whenever I see an E21 there. Pull it out an look to make sure but you should be able to use any generic automotive relay in that socket.

It looks like you may have the older smog bracket bolted on a newer motor in which case nothing goes in that hole.  If oil is pouring out of that hole then you are missing your dipstick tube (but you aren't because I can see the later style dipstick and you can't have both without some creative drilling), either way no bolt goes in there and if you aren't running the smog pump then you can remove it altogether.

Wow Toby, you look a lot younger than I pictured you.

On 5/19/2020 at 8:45 PM, iinca said:

They don't call the place 'Hardly Safe' for nothing...

"Hazard Fraught"

The power to your coil is not fused and it is a resistor wire so that is not the best place to pick up power, the voltage will be low at your pump.  I would suggest you find the green/white wire with an open connector below your dash and use that, that is the one that was used for the tii electric fuel pump, that way it will even list the correct fuse on the sticker under you hood and in the owners manual..

Yup, that was always my understanding too.  The "every rotor is warped just enough to push them back" story gets tossed around way too much.

You can get an inertia switch for next to nothing at any pick-and-pull that has Fords, they can be found at the base of the passenger side A pillar on any F series truck or Expedition (as well as other models but since I got mine from an F-150 I know where they are on that model).

Not much in Tehachapi, my father is a major train enthusiast and so we used to camp there in a friends RV when I was a kid, unfortunately Danco is pretty much correct from what I remember except I think they are meth heads as opposed to crackheads and will steal anything not bolted down (actually they will probably steal that too).  There may be nicer areas of Tehachapi that I have not seen, I am definitely no expert but hopefully you have visited the area before you take the plunge.

I have been getting wire from https://4rcustomswire.com/

they have all the striped colors in any length with free shipping.

ShadeTreeArticles1.pdfShadeTreeArticles2.pdf

At some point somebody uploaded them because I ended up with copies.

Here ya go!

 

 

 

@FunkyLaneO  perhaps?

 

(he's got a speedometer repair video on youtoob).

 

@KFunk possibly?

 

(that's all I've got)

Tom

 

Ha!  no, not me.

Is there any in and out play in the input shaft? if there is more than the tiniest amount then the rotating weight is likely working its way forward and contacting that aluminum cup that the needle is attached to,  every time it touches it will bounce forward quite a bit.

The pictures are not very clear so I cannot tell what the issue is but that would be my first guess, if that is the problem you can take a wooden dowel and use it as a punch and gently tap it down, do not  deform the pinhole on the shaft (that is why I use a wooden dowel and  not something metal) but don't tap it so much that it is tight, you want just the slightest fore to aft play when you are done.

If the input hole is rounded out then I would think you would need to find another speedo for parts or a complete replacement, I have seen quite a few speedometers and never seen one rounded out but I guess it is possible.

Here is a video I made for another guy on the board a long time ago, it addresses a different issue but shows how to access the odometer drive gear that most likely needs replacing on your speedo.

1 hour ago, Toca said:

Does the number end in 9562? If so it hasn’t changed.  Is this the PM me messaging I’m trying to figure out how to do?

Looks like I have an old number for you, I just messaged you on the board.

7 hours ago, Toca said:

How amazing to hear from you again. Still have the photos I took. Still have the 02?  You’ll have to give me your number ( I’m self- partnered so I have a lot of time on my hands when not performing on tour).  Once I figure out how To PM people I’ll send you my cell number. Hope to hear from you soon. 
 

    How did you know I was the same person you met what? 9 years ago?

Yeah, I still have the car and I still have your number in my phone.  If your number hasn't changed I will text you mine. If you need a hand with anything HMU, I actually recently replaced the tie rods and drag link on my car.