im3crazy

Thanks guys.  Thought this was a piece of crap. Finally figured out that my distributor's vacuum advance doesn't work- no diaphragm!  Guess it's new dizzy or find the part time.  Any ideas on a dizzy rebuild vs. "new" dizzy??

I rebuilt my 32/36 and started to set the carb up yesterday and noticed that my vacuum distributor advance was bypassed. I was hooking it back up and noticed a sticker on the hood that says "This car is equipped with a Karkit, do not reconnect the vacuum advance." I have no idea what a Karkit is. Anybody have a clue??

Thanks.

I'm fairly  sure there are attachment points in a USA 76  model.  Other's here can confirm/deny if this is the case. My 69 USA has them. If you search you will find a set of pics of belt installs.  I think Bill Williams here in MD has a set of pics that show the rear belts.

What belts are you looking for?  3 point or just lap?  Depending on ur year you may have bolt hole receivers in your floor.search "seatbelts" on the forum for some good pics.  I may have a set of rear lap only retractable.

Dave in Baltimore, MD

Both are doable if you understand the installation process and are up for a moderate challenge.   If you want a very reliable local shop I recommend Smith's in Baltimore on Caroline street.  I've used them for 30 years for glass, upholstery, vert tops and headliners.  They have always done consistently good work at a competitive price, on time, and no surprises.  http://smithautoglass.com/

I'm in PIkesville off Old Court Rd.

Dave in Baltimore.

I usually purchase my Bosch parts from Rally Lights (Susquehanna) and their site has a number of good wiring references and guidelines.  I've been very satisfied with the fog lamp relays and wiring in installed a few years back, and the heavy gauge wire made a significant difference in the voltage drop at the lights ( only 1/4 volt lower now that the 2 volts on the older PO wiring).

http://www.rallylights.com/auxiliary-lamp-wiring

Attached are two wiring diagrams that show the horn, relay, fuse connection, and horn ring grounding point.  My experience with horn problems in order of failure (except wire and connector and ground faults esp at steering column) are: (1) fuse, (2) relay contacts or relay itself, (3) carbon pin in steering wheel popped, and (4) horn units. 

Thanks.  Here's a detailed description of the wiring and what functions are related to each terminal.  This will help if troubleshooting.

The relay is a timer relay.  When stalk switch closes momentarily (brn/blk) it grounds terminal 31b on the under hood relay.  This does two things (1) it starts the washer motor, and (2) it heats up the curved strip in figure 18 in the wire diagram. The strip expands and connects to terminal M triggering the Wiper Motor thru terminal 53 (BLK wire) for about 5 seconds.

Normal operation: Power is supplied from fuse #6 (YEL/BLU) wire to + marked terminal on dash mounted switch, Figure 23 wire diagram; note this wire also leaves this terminal to power other devices from the dash switch not related to wiper.

Two wires provide High or Low operation; YEL (low speed) wire from terminal 53b to corresponding  53b on wiper motor; and BLK from switch terminal 53 to same 53 terminal to motor (center conductor); 53a on switch is + power from fuse #6 YEL/BLU (this connection is the single connection on one side of dash switch in case you can’t see the terminal marking).   Note that the wiper motor also has a 53a terminal that gets the same power from fuse #6 , also YEL/BLU.  This allows the motor internal contacts to “Park” the wipers in the correct position when the switch or the relay power is turned off.  This is often the source of confusion on setup, and frequently this contact set in the wiper motor faults.  This fault can result in a run-on motor, or no parking.

Lastly, the wiper motor’s 4th wire is a ground BRN (grounds and negative connections nearly always are BRN).  Please make certain this is grounded well (shares ground with the heater blower motor ground point).

I've attached a wire diagram confirming yours.

bmw2002-usa-early pre71.pdf

So I know the right wire diagram, what year is the 02?  Stock wiring, or wire harness upgrade??

Thanks

Maybe the site needs a listing of suspect emails and user names and related info when they prove out to be phonies??  I

'm a cyber security guy, and you really have to trust your intuition on these guys.  Some are so good they are going to get us.  I always check the "good reports" section to see if the seller has a good track record.  But, bad guys are good at being imposters.  I don't like the Paypal rates, AND I have had security issues with Paypal (solved with my two factor ID smart card) but unless they have a proven track record on the sites I frequent, I'm using PayPal (not an endorsement, just our policy) or if I'm selling a USPS money order in advance.

Because it gets cold here I don't want to dump the whole setup.  I have a manual choke on my Power Wagon which is foolproof and thought of going to a manual choke setup.  Problem is that the butterflies bind because of the out-of-round holes.

I haven't mic'd them yet, but they don't appear worn anywhere near the carb body. As expected, the most shaft wear is on the lever side. The accelerator pump lever is also badly grooved where it contacts the main shaft cam lobe (which is also obviously worn).

Great approach. I'm used to using the JB weld and think this would allow a "soft" fit up with the bushings & shaft in place to make sure it doesn't bind. Thanks.

Good documentation. I'm doing this as well for the same reasons.  Well done.

Im rebuilding my 32/36 and discoverd that my choke shaft binds badly due to the shaft gouging the holes way out of round.  Bushings seem to be the way to go, but I've not found any references to this fix.  Any thoughts on correcting these??  Thanks.

Welcome to our comprehensive guide on creating a remote trunk release for your BMW 2002 using readily available parts! If you've ever struggled with accessing your trunk in tight spaces or wished for the convenience of opening it from a distance, this step-by-step article is here to make your driving experience even more enjoyable. We'll walk you through the process of setting up a remote trunk release system using off-the-shelf components, ensuring seamless integration with your car's existing features. Embrace the modern comfort of unlocking your trunk effortlessly and embark on this exciting DIY project to enhance your BMW 2002's functionality and convenience. Let's get started!

I reviewed several articles on the forum and the web to see how others approached releasing a “bear claw” latch. There were many fine approaches. There seem to be two reasonable ways to release the trunk latch: (1) using a motor actuator, or (2) a brute-force solenoid.

Although it used a lot of power, the solenoid seemed more reliable in the long term than the motor. I had just installed motors in the doors, and I had my doubts about their work-life. Using the solenoid approach also made sense because I already had 30 amp capacity in the trunk feeding my stereo amplifiers. I used a heavy-duty 30 amp double pole relay to release the solenoid. A #8 wire feeds the trunk from a 30 amp central fuse box directly from the battery for upgraded accessories, and a #10 wire fused at 20 amps serves the release relay and is fused at 20 amp slow-blow - absolutely necessary for the solenoid draw.

Before I purchased the solenoid, I used a spring scale attached to the trunk release lever to determine how many foot-pounds would be necessary to release the trunk. If I recall correctly, it was approximately 45 pounds, quite a shock.

I found a supplier online from which I purchased my first solenoid that had this rating. I quickly learned that the rating was cited for the end of the stroke and not the start to stroke - a significant difference! I located another provider that had a solenoid that appeared better mechanically and electrically more capable, and I purchased the device for about $45.

One of the first challenges you have with a solenoid is both the start pull capacity as well as the stroke length. I determined I needed a minimum of a three-quarter inch stroke at the 45-50 lb rating. My second candidate worked well.

I also determined that two other vital factors in making this work: (1) securely mounting the solenoid to ensure there was no slack or lost effort, (2) providing A fine adjustment along with a way to absorb the massive shock of the instantaneous pull of this big solenoid.

To accomplish this, I used a “10 lb” 4” spring, a rubber grommet, and a turnbuckle. This allowed me to make the adjustments necessary to fine-tune the assembly and also to absorb unnecessary shock to the release lever. Please check out the pictures and the accompanying text.

The tension spring is attached at the existing trunk release lever base just below the latch return spring. This thing needs a lot of energy to release!

A long-throw alarm switch was installed so it could be easily adjusted to determine if the trunk lid was attacked and pried open.

I hope this approach might be useful to someone contemplating the same.

View full article

my confidence is high that #1is go for liftoff.......

ALSO- search here on the forum for DIN WIRING STANDARDS article.  Links to other sources may be changed in the future, but the local article will hopefully still remain.

WTB: Cold air intake hose for stock air cleaner. In good or better condition. Shipping to Baltimore MD 21208

WTB: 4 way flasher switch; ONLY NEW, NOS, or unused condition; prefer in box. 61311356193

Shipping to Baltimore, MD 21208

Confirmed PayPal here.

Suitable for rebuilding. Owner had it under porch for 5 yrs; does turn, plugs in and all ports were sealed. Looks skanky but nice and clean inside. No idea how many miles on this- was the former owners spare. Sorry don't have the serial # but can provide to interested parties. MAKE AN OFFER. Pickup ONLY in Baltimore, Maryland 21208 "We gladly accept Nigerian Money Orders and will send you cash :)" Seriously...TERMS: Pickup, Cash and Carry only CONTACT: dave@flyingtigertransport.com

These are two Command Electronics high brightness DOT units- Clear plastic, but red LEDs. One mounterd on each side just under rear headliner using common steel two-hole angle straps bent 66 degrees.

A trailer module controls these two wire units for compatibility. Shown is the "tail light" display.  Turn signals light all LEDS on either Left or Right side and are very noticable. 

Stop inidcation lights all LEDS on both sides and is very bright during bright daylight and a little overwhelming at night.  The first time I tested these inside the house it really stunned my vision for a few moments:  these are seriously bright.

Installation was very simple and took about 3 hours to wire in the module and the two units; mounting took about an hour and was straight forward.  The feed wire just clips to the DS headliner down to the controls so I can remove both the units and the wiring if necessary.

I use one or two of these in all our restorations and have been very happy with the respone on the road. 

I will update post with turns and brake pics day/nite shots when I can get them.

ONE TAP ON THE BRAKE OR 4 WAYS AND CLOSELY FOLLOWING DRIVERS BACK RIGHT OFF!

I posted on this a few years back but it seems still to be a hot topic.

A 3rd brake light just didn't seem conspicuous enough.  Drivers are more engaged with a high tail, stop , and turn signal than just a brake-only lamp.

I've installed two "Command Electronics" clear Stop/Tail/Turn lamps just under the headliner on left and right sides. These are freaking lasers.

They are installed off the rear light circuit using a "trailer" module that controls the lights.

I have a switch that engages these (which I always keep on) and the units are removable for purists.  Pics provided if requested.

http://www.commandel...ail-lights.html

HOTLINE CLEAR FOR STOP TAIL TURN.pdf

Ditto with JackF for the battery disconnect as a security and safety measure.  You can get creative on hiding a low current switch and use a relay in series with the IGN to starter solenoid circuit from iGN switch.  RS sells very small low current switches easy to hide under dash.

WTB: NOS rear PS and DS vent seals 51367441112 and 51367441113 unused in like new condition.The long seal (#3) in image below.

Shipping to Baltimore, MD.

Thanks!