im3crazy

1 hour ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

I tried "that style" and they worked fine, but removed it while troubleshooting and never put it back. 

 

The replacement (crappy) stubby Pierberg pump I'd bought was letting fuel drain back to the tank, but when I put the original back on, it worked as it should.  I'm still using that pump and the stubby one is saved in case the old one fails.  I dislike the little Pierberg pumps that are sold as replacements.  They do not clear the coolant hose that runs under them, so they are being heated up by it.  That's not a good thing.  What pump do you have Dave?  It ought to have its own built in check valve.

 

Tom

I have  the stock  pump that i don't think has ever been rebuilt .  So it's probably due.  Inherently it should  hold  fuel  from draining back to the tank, but it's not .  It's time to do some troubleshooting, possibly  there s some  auction on the tank side, shouldn't be , but i will check .

John76: These look like the exact ones I tried that would not draw.  Please Let me know if they work for you. I actually had a hard time blowing through them. 

John76: These look like the exact ones I tried that would not draw.  Please Let me know if they work for you. I actually had a hard time blowing through them. 

To prevent my fuel line from draining back into the gas tank, I'd like to install a check valve.  I've tried two, but they require more suction to open than the oem mechanical fuel pump can provide. 

Any ideas on a suitable check valve that's worked for you in the past?

Thanks. 

UPDATE:  UPS quoted me $145.00 to the same city - of course that was shipping to the door, not pickup at Greyhound station.  Weight and size of the package was no problem (they do to 150lbs).  That surprised me. I thought I remembered 75lbs way back - of course that was before the metric system and the EU when pounds were smaller   

Maybe LTL wouldn't be that expensive??  Any thoughts on alternate shippers??

Currently holding for a gentleman who has expressed interest. But..

I've a couple other responses asking about the shipping.  I can ship Greyhound anywhere they have service for between $35-$120.  Crated it's about 58 linear inches and about 55 lbs.  I'm open to other transport ideas as well

GETRAG 245/4 E21 320i 5 SPEED - MAKE OFFER -Clean 3 piece case.  No output flange or mounting hardware, and it needs a couple case bolts. Was pulled from my '02 after a guibo change resulted in popping out of gear.  I purchased a new 245/4 and had same result- Garage told me that their Incorrect torquing caused the output shaft to move too far rearward and caused the intermittent pop out of gear.  I DON"T KNOW.  All i know do know is that this tranny worked fine until the work was done.  I left the new "0 mile" tranny in the '02 and put this one the side to pull apart, check the specs and possibly do a rebuild.  Never did rebuild it, so it's sold as is.  I have no idea what the mileage is on this unit.  PLEASE CONTACT ME WITH YOUR BEST, REASONABLE OFFER.  PICK-UP IN BALTIMORE, OR I WILL SHIP AT YOUR EXPENSE.  PAYPAL ONLY.  Thanks!

Admins: This post might be best included with the Ireland Engineering post showing the color coded wire diagram. 

The standard DIN numbering codes (e.g. 31, 31b, 51 etc) in this first article explains the function of each wire or device connection.  Used in combination, they help unravel the mystery of BMW (DIN) color assignment by function.  

We still print out the large (18x24) wall-mounted wiring diagrams updated with a side-bar list of these DIN color codes.  Really helps figuring out the daemon electrical faults!

Dave Bickel

Howabout the heater control valve??

These look like they would be a fairly easy build.  And, they are hard and expensive to get and tricky/messy to substitute.

This FAQ shows the valve body and insert nicely.

Nice looking car.  Yes, it's a mistake to list a vehicle on CL and leave an '02 in the background!  Ask me how I know.  My 1982 R100RS for sale on CL in Baltimore.  Responses on the RS= 2; calls on the '02=23.   (no the 69 is not for sale, but I'll make you a great deal on the '82

There are many approaches to this. Here's a BMW parts diagram that shows the original stock options.  This varied by year. Hope it's helpful.  When I installed mine, I used a set of hole matching brackets that came with the seats (still in the plastic bags).

Thanks for the suggestions.  Here's an update with an overlay and hot zone for the filiment "sweet spot."  The right and left bulbs are possible LED replacements.

The red lines show the optimum filiment location.  The center image is a "standard" H3 halogen bulb.  All three bulbs are centered on the same plane as their base plates to show above and below mounting plate dimensions, and their probable focus points.

The Calais brand bulb on the left at least shows the light output area in the zone. I am concerned that the length below the plate (14mm cmpared to 10 for the standard)

The bulb on the right is WAY out; notice the overall height.  I wonder if this would even fit inside my Hellas?  I might try just to make this a realistic test.

Next step is ordering these and a fitment and output test. Guess I'll be looking for a candela/ lumens output app for the Android!

Trying out converting from xenons in the headlights (H1) and in the Hella 500 driving lights (H3). 

There seems to be adequate H1 substitutions out there with near-exact output. 

But I have NOT found any H3 bulbs worth trying in my older Hella 500's as DDLs

I've done a lot of site & Google searches, but no one (except a guy with a Jeep in 2010 on a sales site) mentions:

(1) If the H3 LED bulbs fit dimensionally as well as focus in the reflector, front and rear in the mount ( 18mm from baseplate to filament center incandescent/halogen) and

(2) output enough to be a reasonablly good Daytime Driving Light.   [I'm not thinking that any LED at this point would be even close to the xenon/halogens output]

Suggestions on a good H3 LED??

Thanks, Dave in Baltimore

Adjusting cluster rheostat changes gauge readings.

Searching for similar problems I found this older thread. 

1. On my 1960 02 when I turn the cluster rheostate the fuel and temp gauges increase or decrease about 1/4 readings up/down and stay there.

2. My gauges are erratic with tapping and with bumps- especially bangin the top of dashboard (probably this one is the gauge studs on circuit board)

3. Things I have done/ NOT done:

a. added OEM ground strap between engine, block, battery

b. Cleaned, bared star washered and dielectric siliconed the

  1. dash/firewall ground point

  2. trunk ground point

c. NOT added separate ground strap to cluster yet -

d. NOT yet prayed or sacraficed to various teutonic gods for a spontaneous resolution of this fault -not of my own doing, of course.

Any ideas appreciated.

I willl update this thread when i fix this problem...

BMW 2002, 1976, Automatic, Fjord Metallic Blue, 65,000 miles.
Elegant and Super Clean; unmolested rare original sunroof, original California car.

Many mechanical upgrades; new brakes, bottle cap rims and tires, 320mm Nardy custom wood steering wheel; professional recent transmission rebuild still under two years warranty, original engine and solid Solex carb; runs smoothly, handles well, and has good pickup.
Spotless blue matching interior.

Late model radio/CD/MP3 & speakers.

Excellent 5 speed upgrade candidate (larger transmission tunnel for easy swap).

Overall very solid condition with the exception of a few paint dings that need some attention. Close friend is downsizing and car has to go.   Asking $11,500 obo

Craigslist ad  Baltimore:  http://baltimore.craigslist.org/cto/5783153580.html

CHECK OUT AN AWESOME TOUR OF THIS CAR DRIVER CHAZ REIGN 

A few hints from my similar experiences - hope these help.  BTW- answer to your question "do these ever work this way..."  Yes. interlocks on some models work this way (see below)

Beware of model year/wiring harness mismatches: I've worked on at least 5 '02's in the last year that had wire harness upgrades from original year to later models (74>)  These come with the wonderful interlock circuits and relays.  So the interlock relay and other components may be present on these. 

Wiring type mismatches: Additionally, on one of the cars, an automatic harness was retrofitted to a manual.  IIRC there are two wires to the interlock relay (BLK/BLK from ign switch) that I have seen jumped, or are connected to a relay.

Weird shit done by POs: I'm currently T/S a problem in a 1970 02- brake pedal (or other heavy amp load) must be depressed (active) to start car!  In this case there is a PO alarm with starter interrupt installed that could be part of prob.

Tracing out the circuits is usually the only reliable way to locate the problem.  MANY times I find faulty/wonky multi pin connectors that work most of the time, but not ALL of the time.

+1 throwout bearing

FUEL LINE SPECIFICATIONS & Unknown recalls:  Beware.  MB & 2 BMWs.  I have lost a newly restored 1972 MB 450 and had leaks on a BMW R100rs due to dealer-provided rubber hose lines.  The "original replacement" spec did not include the substitution of a newer product that was resistant to our newer methanol and other chemical additives.

The R100 was actually leaching the alcohol component through the pot-metal carbs, and the hose lines were melting.  I changed those lines.

I DID NOT change the high pressure fuel lines on the MB.  These melted as well and resulted in a catastrophic fire (I discharged two 2ABC fire extinguishers and it still burned)  fire dept arrived in 4 minutes, but still too late. Totalled

1998 M3: Factory recalled fuse box burned - contained to the fuse box and that portion of the wiring harness- no open flames under hood- $1,500 insurance repair.

Now, I make sure the rubber is Euro-spec and/or is certified for modern fuels and their additives.  I frequently check for recalls on the newer vehicles.

PS: I carry two 2lb or single 5lb extinguishers in every vehicle and a 5ABC Halon in cab and a10A 8BC unit on running boards of my Dodge Power Wagon.

Oxidation is not our friend - fast (fire) or slow (rust)

The O is a preset for a "news, talk radio station" the grace note is for your favorite "music" preset and the others select (1) the favorite station on the tuning band location and (2) sets the radio to appropriate respective frequency as follows in german:
L = Langwelle (long wave)
M = Mittelwelle (medium wave)
K = Kurzwelle (short wave)

AND if FM tuning section is present in the radio-
U = Ultrakurzwelle (ultra short wave) FM with frequently another
U and a second preset FM station.

Im interested if the price is reasonable.  In baltimore maryland USA.

Thanks!

Thanks guys.  I have tried every adjustment of which I am aware, and no difference!   We are currently working on 4 other 02's at the shop, and I have inspected them all. 

The only variable I have not yet worked is the tension pre-load on the torsion bar.

Maybe the bar is not "holding up" the latch enough at the point of pre-closure (is that a word?) and it's hitting.   This might make sense because the hood is REALLY heavy to lift, and requires full effort to raise.  I've never had to pre-load a torsion bar before, but maybe this will be the first time.

As I recall assembly, there was little force exerted by the bar...hmmm.   perhaps a clue.

I will definitely followup on this so others don't have to suffer as well.

Dave

Still can't get this one right.  I have read all searchable articles and read all posts on this, but have not found any info pointing to which component is the problem.  Just finished two other 02's in the shop, and working on another- none except my own car has this problem - luckily!

When closing the hood, the side support arms hit when the hood is about 3" above closing.  No article, or know adjustment I have tried has solved this.  It hit before and after recent paint job.

There seems to be at least two varieties of hood supports and torsion bar assemblies. Perhaps a mismatch?

Open to suggestions that don't include " do a search"   thanks!

The post's deleted.

I noticed that my front turn signals began looking dimmer, and a little dingy.   We needed to address the (1) Gaskets, (2) the reflectors, and (3) the wire connections and ground bonding.

The gaskets had long since retired, and the lenses were getting water and dirt inside.  It was time for a rebuild and improvement.  Since this approach worked well on my rear tail light rebuilds, it made sense to clean up the reflectors and cover them with my favorite Aluminum HVAC tape.

GASKETING: It was really a chore to remove the old gaskets because the PO had glued them sdrawkcab with the wide section under the top metal housing that extends under the bonnet.   The gasket should be installed with the recessed face mating to the lens edge, not over the lens and under the metal plate.  How do these things happen?

After thorough cleaning, we used a slower acting contact cement to paint both surfaces of the gasket and the housings

We made sure we did this in stages so it was easier to mate the correct surfaces.

We did the top leading surface of the lens and the inner face of the gasket first.  This allowed us to fully seat the gasket onto the lens edge.

 

Then, we glued the upper surface of the gasket to the upper metal surface.

After fully sealing the inner and top surfaces and upper faces, we did the remainder of the housing surface and made sure the gasket is keyed to the housing, making sure the gasket lines up with the housing "keys."

and fully seated all way round.

REFLECTOR:  We need all the light output we can get!  These were not bad, but never the best design for visibility over a period of time.  The reflecting surface deposited on the plastic deteriorates over the years, and significantly reduces the visibility of the device.   We had a great result (measured at nearly doubling the output of the Roundie tail lights) so we figured it was the best approach for the front turn signals.

We cleaned the surfaces, then almost carefully attached the aluminum tape to the surface.

 

Using the rounded back of a small screwdriver, we burnished the tape to remove most of the imperfections.

We covered all the bleakly anodized surfaces to improve their reflective surfaces.

ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS:  These were never really great, and are the second most common reason for front turn signal failure ( the others being grounding, bulb filament or contact failure, and fuses).

If you don't know and use DEOXIT, please meet my little friend.  I've used this product for years on Hammond organ key contacts, and it's a miracle worker.  My two favorite electrical products are DEOXIT and Dielectric Silicone paste.  I've seen contacts that we serviced 12-15 years ago that are still perfect because of good connection technique, and these two products used correctly.

We liberally applied to all contact surfaces, then applied a bit of dielectric paste on the contacts.

GROUNDING:  We have not shown it here, but will add it back when installed.  We add a short (9" #18 stranded green wire with two #4 ring terminals) that screw to the body and to the turn signal lamp frame; directly to/through the grounding rivet.  More DEOXIT and silicone to finish at the installation

RESULTS:  There's really a significant output difference once this upgrade is done.  Here are a few reflection examples; we will post a before and after shot of the actual lamp output appearance.  (We take the shots at a fixed distance using a fixed digital camera iris and speed setting so we can repeat for as accurate "visual" comparison as possible.

Active lighting results.  Here are a few samples comparing the update reflector frame to the old non-reflective upgrade.  In both the actual bulb reflector has been upgraded.  There appears to be a major difference in the before and after samples.

BEFORE: Little reflectivity along the front portion inside

AFTER: The reflector seems most effective at the 45 degree axis point.

AFTER: Clear boost coming off the inside mount plate now covered with reflective foil tape.

AFTER: Near front-on shows a better even coverage pattern as well.

Check out these VIDEOS of the after tests.

SIDE VIEW -TURN SIGNAL

20160331_184538.mp4

WALK AROUND - TURN SIGNAL

bmw2002reflectortest.mp4

I highly recommend this simple but effective upgrade.

Thanks!  Dave in Baltimore

20160331_184538.mp4

bmw2002reflectortest.mp4

Some time back I purchased a set of mint condition appearance Recaro LXD L-Series Modular seats in a soft black fabric.  Beauty was indeed skin deep on these two. 

Some point in their past a PO replaced a weak suspension with an alternative suspension approach  -  yes the dreaded 1/4" plywood sheet.  The seat base alone in my opinion is just not enough, and not the proper suspension for me. 

We have rebuilt and reupholstered about a dozen of these and their variants over the past decade and have found the following the best, most traditional suspension approach which I have come to prefer over the semi-elastic webbing.  I never liked the webbing's support which I found too firm and not compliant.

The webbing was acceptable on bumps and bounces with a high moment of force, but it didn't provide enough compliance as a driver needs when generally moving about in a seat; it just was too stiff and didn't give as you re-position yourself on long rides.

I removed the plywood and added a suspension system of 3/4" x 2" "75 lb" tension springs [Lowes],

a couple of feet each of 3/8" aluminum rod stock,

and about 20' of nylon webbing. 

Although the webbing gives a bit, the springs and the interplay of the side-to-side and front-to-back tension really gives an extremely comfortable, long-lasting ride with little fatigue.

We zig zag stitched the nylon with a heavy duty nylon thread,

ran the rods through the front and back and sides,

then attached the 10 side springs to the existing holes and added a six new holes where needed for the springs to the seat base front and rear. 

 

As you see in the images, you can pull the webbing with about 20 lbs of force and it just deflects slightly.  When you're seated, you are expanding the springs about 25% of their travel, leaving plenty of room for further excursion.

We were lucky that these were in unused condition and didn't need a recover; we're finding it harder to get the Nardo and Alcanterra in popular colors for reasonable prices.

Enjoy!

Isn't there somewhere, on record, where a shorted out washer pump caused a similar "Jane! Stop this crazy thing!!!" wiper malfunction? I think Jenny Morgan discussed it, back in the 1990s in her Roundel writing? it may not have been a 2002, but might apply to us?

 

Just wondering out loud.

 +1 on the pump trigger.   Yes! This will cause the problem. We had one come in the shop a few weeks ago where the washer pump wire brushed against the exhaust mani and grounded out causing the wipers to run.  Only happened during acceleration when engine pulled enough to make contact!

Dave in Baltimore