DennisR

e-mail sent

I agree. It was a good drive and a beautiful day. Unfortunate things do happen and what was reassuring to me was how everyone pulled together to take care of the details and support both driver and car. It was a pleasure to meet the group and I'm sure I'll see you all on another saturday morning drive.

Try this link:

http://www.jaxed.com/cgi-bin/mash.cgi?cat=cp&itm=bmw+1970s&loc=&fil=2002&ys=1976&ye=&submit=++++go++++

Should help. . . Good luck with the insurance

I'd check these guys out too. They are close to home and the dealings I've had with them have always been positive. . . They have been around forever.

Walnut Creek Auto Radio Inc

2016 N Main St

Walnut Creek, CA

Don't know if they are 02' experts but they always seem to have high-end vehicles in their shop.

I'd check these guys out too. They are close to home and the dealings I've had with them have always been positive. . . They have been around forever.

Walnut Creek Auto Radio Inc

2016 N Main St

Walnut Creek, CA

Don't know if they are 02' experts but they always seem to have high-end vehicles in their shop.

Hi John,

I'm certainly not the 32/36 expert here (check out the forum searches for weber 32/36 for more info). But here's what I've learned over the past couple weeks about my 25+ year-old 32/36 DGAV. Mine was installed on a 76' CA car. . . The water choke on mine was goofy and a simple adjustment (when the car was cold) to insure that the choke was fully open on a warm car cured my "hot" starting issues. . . I know this is not your problem but it may be a variation that leads to a solution.

During the quest to determine wether to re-build and/or re-jet I was asked to stick my finger into the throat of the carb and try to wiggle the "aux venturi" (not in carb-ese but those are the small cylinders suspended in the center of the throats of the primary and secondary sides of the unit). The recommendation was that if they are loose then the carb needs a significant rebuild (ie machine work and shimming). The play in the mounting apparently allows the fuel to leak/drip/pour directly into the manifold through the carb. Mine were mega loose and again, not being a carb guy, I added up the cost of the rebuild kit, labor, machine work, postage and down time while things got mailed back and forth and decided that the best move for me was to just buy a new carb and re-jet. I'm planning to give CD's Rx a try. It's costing me a couple of bucks but if this one lasts another 25 years it'll be worth it. . .

One other thought, if you plan to keep the car in UT and end up replacing the carb, consider de-smogging and going with a 32/36 DGEV (electric choke). From what I've read this may be a cleaner set up on a 49-state smog car.

Good luck. I'll keep an eye on your thread to see how things turn out for you.

I spoke to the powder coater today and asked him about the "best" way to remove the black powder coating from the lettering on my valve cover. He told me that they will coat the cover and then, before baking, "very carefully"... wipe the coating from the highlighted areas. Once that's done they set the remaining powder coat in the oven.

My plan is to remove any small amounts of residue ("very carefully") with emery cloth to be sure the edges are nice and tight.

This is my first experience with powder coating anything so I'll let you know how it comes out. . .

Very nice! I think that may be the way to go!

Thanks,

Dennis

Thanks for the ideas. I'll forget about removing the studs and concentrate on finding some kind of castle nut. You are right, in the scope of all the other things I spend my money on for this car, a couple of extra bucks for nuts isn't going to break me. . .

I have a valve cover that's being powder coated black with the raised lettering"BMW", etc. being wiped off to metal when it's done. I was looking at the original nuts that hold the cover on this morning and now I'm feeling like they just aren't going to complement the new cover.

I've had a couple of thoughts and was wondering if any forum readers have any other ideas/comments. . .

Thought 1- buy a seemingly very expensive set of polished or chrome castle nuts via eBay. Concern- I'd prefer black to go with the refurbished valve cover and this seems like the pricy way to go. . .

Thought 2- Remove the studs from the head (not sure if this is an option) and use allen head bolts/socket screws to secure the cover directly to the head. Concern- will the removal and refitting of the valve cover over time cause undue wear on the head.

Anyone have any other ideas??? Thanks!