Goodnight85

Im not sure about any other brands for rollbars other than the custom alternative, but Festive Garage sells the Autopower street/sport bar for $390.00 plus shipping. I just put the street/sport bar in my car and it works great.

Im not sure about any other brands for rollbars other than the custom alternative, but Festive Garage sells the Autopower street/sport bar for $390.00 plus shipping. I just put the street/sport bar in my car and it works great.

Got everything together, just needed to adjust e-brake more. Got everything adjusted and set and the brakes feel great. Thanks tjones02 for the call, I appreciate it.

I went to replace my rear drums, shoes and cylinders today.Everything went fine until I went to put the new drums on. The left side wont go on and the right side took quite some effort. For the left side, I pulled the adjusters in and the emergency brake is off, what more can I do to get this drum on? Thanks, Andrew.

PS.I could use the help asap,so if anyone is inclinded, they can call my cell at 703-801-9665

Im looking for some pics of an early 2002 with turbo flares but no front air dam. If anyone has one, I'd appreciate it

I have been having some issues with the clutch in my car and found that the linkage piece (similar to a hyme joint) that connects the clutch pedal to the clutch master cylinder appears to be worn. The picture below shows (the top picture) what I believe the stock piece should look like and the bottom picture shows what my piece actually looks like. As you can see, there is a lot of play in the pedal before it actually engages the master cylinder. I am correct about the stock piece? Also, where can I can this piece?

I am having some issues with shifting in my '71 02. Almost every time I shift into first or reverse from neutral at a stop and give it a little gas to move, then clutch in again with the shifter still engaged, the car stills pulls as if the clutch isn't completely disengaged. Also, when I stop with the car in gear and clutch in, it can be difficult to move the shifter from whatever gear (usually first) to neutral.

I figured it might be some air in the clutch hydraulic system, so I bled it and pulled some nasty old fluid and some small air bubbles. It seemed to work, but within a few miles of driving, the symptoms returned. It is now raining and too dark, but I plan to flush the hydraulic system again and more thoroughly.

Any other suggestions on what might be occurring here?

1. I got my Weber 38/38 on and I have a few questions about the jetting. I just rebuilt the carb and installed 170 air correctors, 140 main jets, 45 idle jets and F50 emulsion tubes. It is a stock engine except for Crane ignition on a 002 dist and a tii exhaust manifold. The carb works OK, but it isn't as smooth as the old Weber 32/36 carb. It does however have much better throttle response and torque, so I would like to keep the 38/38. Any suggestions on a jetting set up?

2. Also, on the 'passenger side' of the carb, next to where the choke mounts to the carb body, there is a small opening that emits quite a 'sucking' sound when running (the choke is off on this carb). With the car running, I can put my finger over it and stop the 'sucking' sound, but no change in running or revving the engine. Anyone know what this port is?

I just recently put in a Coreau Clubman, which is a fixed backseat and I love it.

If you can, drop down to a cooler thermostat. Your radiator might be blocked slightly, so a good flushing and/or a new radiator might be in order. For a great flushing of the cooling system, drain all the fluid after it has run for a little bit and with the heater open, fill up with mostly water and a good parts cleaning solution. At the shop I work at, we normally use Spray Nine brand: 'Grez Off' cleaner. Run the Grez Off and the water thru your system, then drain, repeat with less Grez Off and more water, drain again, then just water, drain, the finally fill with a good 50/50 mix and check it a week later. You might have to drain and fill up again, but in the end, its pretty damn good. Also, check that the gauge is actually reading the temp correctly or that your sending unit is good. Hope this helps.

It could take a little, like some new gas, plugs, cap, rotor and some starter fluid to get it going (other than doors and a seat to drive it). But it might need a whole new engine just to get it to run. The brakes might be shot and/or frozen, making it unsafe to drive on a good engine. As you said, it has already been stripped of some exterior and interior parts, it might of been stripped of some of its running gear parts. You should do some more research on this particular car, find out whats wrong, what else its missing and what it needs. It could be a good deal for a new 02er, but it also might be a money pit that could never run again.

I just noticed that the fan switch on the dashboard pulls out. But it doesn't seem to do anything diferent, no matter what 'fan speed' I have set. What is this function for?

You can get a round filter from Pierce Manifolds: http://www.piercemanifolds.com/airfilters.htm , they also have a snorkel that allows you to mount a remote filter. ITG makes a great filter, they are just kinda hard to get and can be expensive.

You can get a round filter from Pierce Manifolds: http://www.piercemanifolds.com/airfilters.htm , they also have a snorkel that allows you to mount a remote filter. ITG makes a great filter, they are just kinda hard to get and can be expensive.

Some people should have been smothered when they were younger.

Some people should have been smothered when they were younger.

Has anyone used the K & N Weber DGV Snorkel? I saw it on the K & N website and wondered about its value. On a relatively stock engine, would it choke the amount of air?

Im about to swap out the old Pertronix for a new Crane XR700 kit. I have reading a lot on the forum about the proper coil and whether or not to use a resistor. Ireland Engineering suggests a Blue coil. But I have read about using the Red coil with a resistor. Which set up is correct?

I only need one for the driver's side. How much for the one? (If one is OK)

I got a Corbeau seat for my 1971 2002 and I need the mounting bracket. On Corbeau's website, they have a master bracket guide, but there are two odd listings for the 2002. They have the D146T for 1600, 2002 TURBO 68-76 and the C22008 for the 2002, 630, 633 77-89. Im pretty sure I would use the D146T. I have contacted Corbeau, but they are having me measure the stock mounting location and I wanted to see if anyone here has gone through this and/or knows the answer. Please email me at goodnight85@cox.net if you have any info. Andrew

Went to check and set the timing today. I cant see a ball or pin in the fly wheel. While revving through the rpm range: nothing. But on the crank pulley, there are three marks. Two about 1/8 of an inch from one another and then the third about half an inch away. Are these the timing marks? If so, what does each mark mean in degrees?

I replaced the cap/rotor (which are three months old and unknown mileage) and new plugs and wires. After a little roughness, it is running fine and seems to be making good power.

So Im driving the 250 mile trip home from school in my '71 Golf 02 and at around the 120 mile marker, the car started misfiring. As the drive continued, it got worse. I did most of the drive at 4000 rpm / 70-72 mph. Today, I open up the distributor and find that the cap and rotor are wasted. The rotor has a lot of corrosion on the end and the cap as similar corrosion on each of the four contact points. It also looks like the center contact of the rotor was rubbing against the main contact point of the cap (there is alot of black dust on the main contact of the rotor and a charred looking circle around the main point on the cap). Im going to change everything and see, plus check all other ignition related connections (including the Pertronix ignitor and the Bosch red coil), but could there be a larger problem in the ignition system causing this failure in the cap and rotor? Any input would be greatly appreciated, Andrew

I have a Behr 320 radiator in my car and I want to know the size of the treads on the temperature sender (at least that's what I think it is) in the bottom left corner of the radiator. Im guessing either 3/8" or 1/2" NPT, but i could easily be wrong.