Tbone

I want to run some 205/60-13's and have a choice between 13x6 rims and a set of 13x7's. I can't decide. Help!

It is about 250mm deep and follows the same resistance full to empty as the 2002 unit and gauge.

I don't know the year of the 2800 this tank came out of, but as far as I've found, they should all be the same.

(nt)

Following up on my post from a few weeks ago, and the pictures to prove it!

The 18 gallon tank from an e9 bolted right into my '70.

-I had my muffler tweaked to clear, as it comes much closer to the spare tire well

-The trunk floor is about .75" higher

-Ground clearance directly beneath the tank is about .75" less, but the drain plug hangs no lower than the differential.

I towed my '02 by the front on one of those Uhaul dollys with a '92 Cherokee 120 miles without a problem. I just disconnected the '02's driveshaft at the differential.

I've sourced an e9 tank, it sure looks like it'll fit. I'll make a post with pics for the faq if it works out.

Thanks all for your thoughts!

Hi all,

After an extended road trip last week, I've been poking around for info on larger fuel tanks, like the Turbo had. I found this article on the tii register:

http://www.2002tii.org/phpmyfaq/index.php?action=artikel&cat=19&id=7&artlang=en

This sounds great, has anyone done this? What "earlier 6 cylinder model" is it out of?

TIA

(nt)

I've found both "yes" and "no" answers in the archives. Anyone know for sure?

Thanks

(nt)

My dash is in poor shape so I wont feel guilty about cutting holes in it. Aren't tii clocks are mounted like this?

I dont mean to go crazy, just the standard oil temp, pressure and volts.

If I go with a turbo style pod on the parcel shelf next to the instrument cluster I'll have to move my driving gloves!

its just too far away to reach comfortably (I have long legs and not-so-long arms) I'd like to have it 1.5 to 2 inches closer so I could bend my elbows a bit.

Any ideas?

If an aftermarket wheel is the only way to go, which comes the closest to stock in appearance while being this much closer?

Thanks for your input

Just looking at the top gears:

A 1.00:1 top gear and a 3.64 rear end, final drive is 1.00*3.64=3.64:1

An overdrive top gear of .81:1 and a 3.64 rear end-->.81*3.64=2.95:1

Couple that large drop in torque delivery to the ground when in 5th and the wider gear spacing that pushes the upshift rpm drop even further away from your peak torque at the crank, the OD box should feel like the parking brake is stuck on (after you've had a close relationship with a CR box)

The best answer would be a close ratio 6 speed, with 1st through 5th similar to the ratios in your CR box AND and overdrive 6th. I'll keep dreaming about that one!

I know this is a longshot, but I'd really like one of these units with the internal thermostat, much more elegant than my 1.5 inch thick sandwich adapter that puts the filter really close to the steering box.

Have cash, Paypal, other?

Thanks

I've been running Mikuni phh 44's for a while now

-Starts up immediately, no matter how cold, hot, wet, etc.

-Tuned them up right-- car is pretty quick

-I average 25mpg city, 28-30 highway, and I goose it frequently

-I tried the megasquirt route for a while, but got fed up with the concept that with such a fine control over fuel delivery, I could tune and tune and tune and never get it "perfect." With a relatively more coarse control over the fuel delivery with carbs, pretty f-ing close = put the screwdriver down, you're done!

Plus, for me, carbs have the right look, the right sound, the right technology for the era of the car. But I like it oldschool. Your tastes may vary.

for the last 70,000 miles, 6 years. Wouldn't have it any other way. I typically cruise at 70-75mph, ~3200rpm, 28-30mpg.

I have been searching/hoping/praying to get my hands on a 3.64 LSD though, so I'd love to have your current predicament!

you talk to Marshall or Dean (if he still works there, haven't seen him in a while) They are the 2002 experts and will help you out. The other 3 or 4 guys that work there deal only with newer stuff.

IMHO

The big york piston type? My equal length 4-2-1 wont do it.

Thanks

Now I have some idea on how to tow a Laser or 505; I may just have to do it...

Cylinder head to exhaust header flange, like Lee's SS flange that I came across during my search

Rear caliper mount bracket for conversion to VW calipers and rotor

LSD friction plates (there are two types?)

I have some lab time with a CNC mill and the Prof. has graciously allowed me to crank out a few of these to earn my grade, the catch being that the 02 is my ride to campus, so...

Thanks in advance[/url]

I strongly suggest disconnecting the driveshaft at the diff input flange and secure it up out of the way--it's only 4 bolts and a bungee cord

1 to 1.100 inch spacers (the type with studs pressed into them) will allow the stock 13" rims to clear the brakes and fenders. Getting a hold on some is another matter--I made my own

Has anyone tried (successfully) to run these before? What jets would be a good starting point?

Carbs have 34mm venturi's

Stock block and head

292 cam

header & free flow exhaust

TIA

I've done this a few times by removing the radiator passenger side grille and pass. side motor mount which should drop the engine down enough so that the cam just clears through the cowling (at least on my car)

But, I've yet to come up with a good way to hold the rocker arms out of the way