gastephens

Thanks for everyone's help.Yes, Occam is a sharp dude. (razor sharp you might say)

After removing the motor mount and bracket, A/C bracket, and bungeeing the A/C compressor out of the way as far as possible I got enough access to get it out.

Using a right angle drill attachment and reverse thread bits, and lots of Rost-Off and Brakleen, I extracted the sheared bolt!

While it doesn't look like it, you are probably right. Tomorrow I will remove the bracket from the engine and see what I've got. It's a tight fit in there to extract a broken bolt. Thanks for the input.

The bracket for the right side motor mount attaches to the block with two bolts in the rear and one in the front. It appears that the hole into the block for the front bolt is not drilled / tapped. The car used to have a York a/c compressor bracket mounted there so it was covered up. It does not appear to be a sheared off bolt but it is possible.

Any thoughts or ideas?

Everybody wants the best price. Not me. I want a fair price and good service. I generally get both from Blunttech. I got a bad rebuilt E21 Bosch alternator from them. One detailed email and Steve sent me a replacement alternator and a label for return of the first one.

No hassle. No paperwork. No questions. Anyone can occasionally get a bad part. How much is good service worth?

I finally restored my A-pillar door brake brackets and they are so much better. Unfortunately the driver side still makes a tiny pop when I open the door.

My door brakes are in good condition but the plastic sleeve inside the door brake arm is a bit wallowed. Are those plastic sleeves replaceable? I could not find them on RealOEM. 

I've got the 2002. A GTV is just about the only car I would trade it for. Since they would serve basically the same purpose in my autoverse (hardtop comfortable enthusiast car that wife will actually ride in) I can't justify both. If only the BMW wasn't such a great car and if I hadn't restored it completely from scratch. Damn life decisions. Thanks for the insights.

8 minutes ago, laundromatt said:

$27,000???

If you put a really nice, fully restored, non-tii with sunroof and A/C on BringATrailer it would fetch $27K. 

Sorry for your issues. I can commiserate since I've got more horror stories on my Austin Healey than you can imagine. BMW has been pretty good, comparatively.

What I've learned.

Body guys are hacks at just about anything mechanical, including installing all the bolts in the body correctly.

Take off anything that might be of value or in the way. No way you want them touching it.

I have NEVER gotten a body shop estimate that was anywhere close on cost or time. Even from guys who I consider good friends.

The solvents used in body shops and the dust created will kill parts with contacts or moving parts (switches, fans, heater controls, etc.)

After getting a car back from body shop you have to clean and tighten all ground connections.

And the most painful lesson, only give them one chance. If they miss a deadline you give them some slack. Then you go get the car.

Congratulations. Is this written with the wry humor we have come to expect or is it purely a how-to book? Entertainment, enlightenment, or some of both?

I don't know what came on the car but I can tell you that most 16" wipers stick off the curvature of the glass. I gave up on both inserts and the junk replacement blades.

These 15" units install fast, fit perfectly with no adapters, look stock (real metal!), and work great. And they are reasonably priced.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CPZVTS/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was replacing my seal rather than installing a new one. It is scary that I am now re-doing jobs that I did 15 years ago when I restored the car because they have worn out from use and age. Originally I used Wurth Rubber Glue contact cement but I decided to try that new-fangled SuperGlue Gel this time.

I cleaned off the old glue with alcohol, Goof Off, and then Prep-All but could not get all the way down to paint. There was still a line of dark adhesive residue. The Superglue Gel would not stick to this at all so I dug out my can of Wurth Rubber Glue and it worked just fine. I like that you can apply it to the entire surface and the seal and then just carefully stick the seal into place. It does yellow so you must be very careful not to get it on the visible areas. I did use the Superglue to seal the ends of the furry P channel.

Congratulations on a running car. That's a real accomplishment, especially with mix and match parts.

The startup issue is likely choke and possibly mixture.

There are 3 common choke types on a 32/36 weber, electric, water, and manual. Search for weber choke on the FAQ to figure out which you have and how to set it up.

To check linkage, with car off, disconnect the linkage and move the throttle cam on the carb so you can see the range of motion. Then connect the linkage and have an assistant press the pedal while watching the cam on the carb to see if you're getting full range of motion. Adjust accordingly.

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I have one that stays open and one that closes. Both are original to the car. I always thought that the geometry was slightly different on them since the one that stays open seems to open a little further than the other.

Those are flare fittings. Rather than cut them off and install o-ring fittings, I would use an adapter. Here is a #8 example.

http://nostalgicac.com/fittings-hose-kits/flare-adapters/8-flare-to-o-ring-fitting-adapter.html

Alternatively you could have new lines made with flares on one end and o-rings on the other.

Are you going R12 or R134? If R134 you should replace the condenser and dryer along with the compressor so you will have almost all o-ring fittings anyway. If you are doing R12 you will still have mostly flare fittings. The reason I point this out is that the nostalgic AC expansion valve should work fine for either application but you will need to adapt it from O-ring to flare to connect to the evaporator and the dryer. You can get custom lines made for this (or make your own) or there are adapters. I went with new lines to minimize the possible leak points.

I got a genuine sanden from summit racing, $200.

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It is probably time for new rubber bushings at the alternator mounting points.

Many people use poly bushings.

Classic 2002 problem. Rubber bushings will wear out in a few years. Use the poly bushings.

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So what do I win?  (other than the booby prize)  [emoji4]

In an ironic twist, your prize for having the youngest BMW 2002 is a neuemotorsports "RESPECT YOUR ELDERS" decal. PM me your address.

My BMW info said "manufactured on June 10th, 1976 and delivered on June 11th, 1976  to BMW of North America ".

Congrats to mmichalik , so far your July 19th is the latest manufacture date.

7/76 is so late it's after the last automatic car was supposedly manufactured. What more can you tell us about the car? Color, options, location, history?

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I just checked my 76 Automatic and my VIN is 2393192.  Could it be one of the last 100 made?

Wow, looks like it. Does your door sticker say 06/76? I would contact bmw to see what day it was made.

Label all the connection points and wires and make wire extensions if necessary so popping the cluster is easy in the future. This won't be the last time you do it.

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The think that struck me is that almost all the fuses are white.

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Looks a lot like the center caps for panasport wheels which can still be purchased.

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My baby suffers from monochromatism.

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