Redtail

How long have these rotors been unavailable for? I tried to get a set last summer when I replaced my front calipers (obviously with no luck). Has it really been years? I might want to pick up a set just to have on the shelf...

Good write-up and timely. I was just talking about getting a new set of door seals and I'm a little hesitant to drop more than $500 on BMW seals. I'll give the UROs a shot and hopefully get a set of the new soft type.

56 minutes ago, halboyles said:

 

 

Been searching for a supplier.  Has anyone had any luck actually ordering some of this?

It's available on Amazon: 

https://www.amazon.com/3M-08892-Rust-Fighter-I-Aerosol/dp/B000PJAWN6/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497114511&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=3m+rustfighter

The repairs look good but I'm a little surprised the shop didn't grind down their welds. I always do that step, it doesn't take very long if you're careful not to lay down too much wire and after paint you can't tell there was ever a repair done.

Either way nice job getting it taken care of - must feel good!

19 hours ago, TobyB said:

Kool- It, from a company called LubeGard, seems to do far better.  In my car, with distilled water...

Thanks Toby, I'm going to give this a shot in the Model A.

Certainly a lot to think about here guys. thanks for all the great info.

Yea I figured it was no big deal.

I started worrying after I discussed this issue with my father-in-law who owns a 1930 Ford Model A. Most of the Model A guys will run straight distilled water in the summer with a bottle of Redline Water Wetter to prevent corrosion. 

Thanks for the advice, it saved me $40 of new coolant!

Hey guys, I always use distilled water to mix with my coolant, but last time around I picked up deionized water by mistake and didn't realize until everything was mixed and the job was done. I have heard some say that deionized water will cause corrosion because it wants to absorb ions from the metal to create a balance. However good coolant has anti-corrosion additives that should protect the engine components.

Should I change the coolant out again and use distilled water? Or am I worrying about nothing?

Thanks!

13 hours ago, jrhone said:

Nakamichi CD500. 

Great looking console, very nice work!

On 2/22/2017 at 4:22 AM, JimM said:

Looking at a Hobart 140 as it seems to get the best reviews short of a 220V version, it's Miller's homeowner line and has a pretty broad range of capability for about $550 ?

 

I bought a Hobart 140 to do similar repairs (not on my BMW but still similar work)  and I can say it is a great choice and fully capable of this work. You will also need the gas bottle (roughly another $200) so budget for that as well.

A lift will make your life much easier and infinitely more pleasant.

One car I did was probably about as bad as this one and I had approximately 300 hours in when I finished it up. Keep in mind this will be a long term project, but with the right attitude and desire to learn you should be ok. Good luck!

Is there a difference between these lights and the Super Oscars?

I'm interested in the covercraft too. Please keep me posted.

Oh crazy! That explains why it's been such a problem to bleed. I was wondering how everyone else got at the bleed nipple with 1/4" of clearance all around!

I'll flip it over and bleed again. Hopefully it will make my shifting buttery smooth.

16 hours ago, Son of Marty said:

If it's a O/D 5 speed from a 320i the bleed nipple should be at the bottom and the feed hose on the top, I know that it sounds backward but it's not 

Really? That's the set-up in the car and the bleed nipple is on the top and the hose feed is on the bottom. It was like that when I got it so I just replaced the slave cylinder the same way.

Should I switch it around so the nipple points down? It is a PITA to get at with the nipple pointing up.

I replaced the M/C and after an extensive bleeding session finally got everything to work. I feel like I could use another round of bleeding but it's ok for now unless I should swap the position of the slave. Thanks guys

18 hours ago, Hans said:

which way does the bleed nipple point?

the slave cylinder bleed nipple points up so that should be ok.

I was able to find a bit of fluid seeping past the seals when I pushed back the rubber boot on the M/C. Seems pretty obvious that's the issue. I have a new one on order, thanks for the advice guys.

Hey guys, I just wanted to double check my diagnosis...

Background: 1973 tii, 5-speed, new clutch slave cylinder, hoses, and reservoir. Been through the bleed cycle multiple times with a pressure bleeder. No fluid loss at all.

Issue: Recently the car has started to fully release the clutch while the pedal is still pressed to the floor. For example I'll put the car in reverse and slowly start backing up as normal then the clutch will suddenly fully release and slam the transmission into gear. This happens most noticeably in reverse and first but may be happening with every change.

Diagnostic: Internally leaking clutch master cylinder. I replaced the slave (but not the master) about 6 months ago so this might have been the trigger causing the master to fail.

Ideas? Does this sound reasonable? Thanks for any advice.

wow that is some seriously impressive machinery. What a day!

Fantastic!

Is that the ex-Elvis 507? I heard it was under restoration for a possible PB showing but never saw anything further about the car.

1 minute ago, mmichalik said:

I run the Toyo's on my 76 and I like them.  There a good overall tire and look nice as well.  I have not run Flaken's on my 2002 but I did have them on my c230 and did not like them at all.  Wore quickly and were loud but, that might just be my experience.

I actually ended up going with the Toyos and love them. I also got a set of Extensa's for my vintage Mercedes and I'm going with a set of Toyo all terrain tires for my Cherokee too.

Super cool. Looks pretty soggy there today.

I'd buy a Sahara if you decide to include that in your next run. Not the most exciting color for a pin I know, but I am a little biased 

Super cool! I just ordered an Inka.

3 minutes ago, xferboy said:

Just to be a d!nk, while you were there, 4 more bolts and 1 or 2 nuts, and you could have changed the injector pump belt

The belt is pretty worn and will need changed soon no question. I'm going to put together a big order of parts for next week and replace all the belts plus a bunch of other little things. Now that I have the mystery figured out I'm 90% of the way there!

OK job done. adjusted the position of the FIP belt and correctly re-assembled the crank pulley. I can definitively say these 2 factors caused the problems I posted about in this thread.

The car runs much better now but the idle is a little low and hunts a bit. It's also still a little smoky at 6k rpm. I never drive that hard, but I'd still like to get the injection dialed in. I wonder if the PO adjusted the fuel injection to compensate for the incorrectly timed injection pump.

Anyway that's another story. As is the new (much lower) oil change interval for the car. I'm considering an engine flush next time I change the oil. Worked well for the cooling system.

Thanks for all the advice gents.

Interesting new updates, with pictures!

After some investigation this morning, I am thinking the crank pulley is mounted 90 or 180 degrees out and fuel injection pump belt is off by 3 teeth. Please review the images below and let me know your opinion! And a preface of sorry for the photos - the image uploader rotated them into random orientations...

Position #1

In this first set the Fuel Injection Pump is set to TDC but the crank pulley is out by what looks like 120 degrees or so: 

The mark on the camshaft looks to be off by a link as well:

There is no timing mark visible on the flywheel in this position

Position #2

In this set I have aligned the camshaft to TDC:

And the fuel injection pump is off by a few degrees, and the crank pulley looks to be 180 degrees off:

In this position the line and 0 on the flywheel are visible through the flywheel inspection hole.

Conclusion

Whoever changed the FIP belt last time cocked it up pretty good. Belt & pump out of alignment and crank pulley installed incorrectly. Is this the only issue I'm looking at here? If the cam and flywheel marks both line up at TDC the timing chain should be in the correct position right?

Will do first thing tomorrow. Now its time for a shower beer...

OK so I just timed it via the flywheel marks and can confirm the crank pulley is out 180 degrees unless there is some other funny business going on. I set the timing to the factory spec of 25 DBTDC at 2700 RPM and confirmed it is also at 32 DBTDC at 3,200+ RPM.

Unfortunately the factory settings make the car run worse! I think before I did anything it was set around 45-50 DBTDC. Like I said before it would run just fine on this setting below 4500-5000 RPM or so. Above that, large black clouds out the tailpipe.