Happy Face

My dashboard lights are really dim. Even with the light cranked up all the way, you can barely read the gauges.

do I need to pull the gauge panel off and change bulbs or is this a power or grounding issue somewhere?

also saw Senna's avatar and his looks similar (in green).

My car is a '72 so am not sure if the spoiler fittings changed for the modern cars (74 and above). The car in this picture is a '70.

Also, I understand that the black plastic grills of the moderns don't really fit on the old roundies. Is it difficult to make the switch?

In most cases it takes 5 min (8-10 hard aplacations) to get them started then normal driving.

I should have been more explicit, but that's exactly what I did. It was a 30 minute drive around the block....but about 8-10 hard applications during that drive

I've just completed the brake system rebuild on my car. This afternoon I took her out for the first time just to see how it felt. With new pads, I thought it might be a good idea to 'seat' the pads.

after 30 min or so of hard braking, I began to notice a bit of softness to the pedal....and also smelled something (kind of electrical smell, maybe it was the new front pads though - metal masters).

anyway, came home , took a look at the new front calipers and notices 'wet' spots around the caliper threads in the picture above. Also say one or two tiny bubbles showing up there.

Any cause for worry?

I have adjusted hand brake cables to max tight and still have no emerg. brake..

The rear brakes are all new, new cylinders, shoes and drums...this was the last thing I had to do before getting the car back on the street

all I can figure is that somewhere the emer cable is sticking.... I mean if I tighten the cable any more at the handbrake its going to snap....as it is, its so tight I can barely pull the hand brake more than 4 notches, if that...

don't tell me I need to pull out that cable!

Steve,

I've already checked that. The adjusters are not what is causing the shoes to rub. They move without any problems.

I'm stumped

I've gone through the brake rebuild on the rear. The left rear seems fine, after the new hub is on, it turns freely. I still have to do the adjustment.

The problem is with the right rear. It was hard to get the new hub on and clear the new brake shoes. I even loosened the emergency brake cable. It seems that the brakes are engaged even though the system has been completely bled, no pressure in the lines (no fluid in the lines even). Yet, the right rear brakes seem to rub hard against the hub. Can't figure this one out. The other side seems identicle yet it moves freely.

??

what exactly do you mean by bench bleeding. Are you saying to fill it with brake fluid before install? I guess I'd have to plug up each inlet first.

I'm about to embark upon the master cylinder replacement. Any advice/tips before I begin?

This is a part of my overall brake system rebuild. The four brakes have each already been rebuilt (or are nearly finished). The fluid is for the most part, flushed.

thanks

I'm trying to get the rear drive flange to go back on after I finished renewing the rear brake cylinder and put on new pads. I used an extractor to get it off and that went well. I've since regreased the axle and did some pounding with a rubber mallet but this is as far as I've got it to go in.

What's the best way to get this puppy to get back to where it belongs?

thanks

dave in houston

could you use the same stuff for other rubber seals, like the hood side seals, or trunk seals, etc?

holy crap, for a second there I thought it was 2001, a Space Odessy!

I did something similar, although not as effective, put my car up on a fork lift, and got under it with a pressure washer....all the old grease and oil from underneath came off and I discovered a few hidden rust zones while I was at it. I should have had a space suite on like you though. My wife's car was downwind and it smelled like 35-year old grease for a week.

yes, those bags contain one jet each. there are six total, three for the primary, three for the secondary. the part numbers are on the bags themselves....you should be able to read them. Here again is CD's recommendations for the stock 2002 motor and the 32/36 Weber:

PRIMARY

idle 60

main 140

air correction 145

SECONDARY

idle 55

main 170

air correction 175

the only unknown is on your idle jets, there are the fat variety and the skinny variety. You only know when you take the idle screws out to expose the jets. Its a different part number for the fat versus the skinny. On mine the primary side had a fat jet and the secondary side had a skinny jet. Confusing but if you take out the idle jets you'll see what I mean.

I guess what threw me here is the carb has for the primary, a large idle screw and for the secondary a thin idle screw. Both had light green gaskets (perhaps they are o-rings) in there now. There is no way one of those little black o-rings would have fit over the thick, primary idle screw. Also, when I took the carb apart, there were a few of these old black o-rings that came off and I didn't note where they had come from. That's why I thought they weren't associated with the idle screws.

no matter, the carb is back together now and on the car. I started her up just now and she is running much better. I still need to adjust the choke, and the mixture.... still more to learn

I'm in the final stages of reassembling my Weber 32/36 after putting in new jets, etc.

When I was cleaning the carb a few little black o-rings came off. In the rebuild kit two are supplied. The thing is, I have no idea where these go. Anyone familiar with these?

thanks

dave

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I got mine at Top End Performance (818-764-6768), but I know that Pierce Manifolds also sells them.

The rebuild kit itself was $39 but you might also need some new 'jets' (main, idle, air, etc. for both primary and secondary). Also, for the idle jets, you'll need to know whether they are the fat or skinny type. The only way to know is to actually take them out and look at them.

Each of the jets are $5.95 at Top End.

I followed CD's tuning prescription for the jets.

good luck!

dave

I just went through this last week . I found a stamp on the bottom left side (driver side) which gives the carb model #. Its very small and hard to see. Should start with "D"

thanks...that give me exactly what I need...

after I took off the jets from the old carb I found the following:

PRIMARY

idle 60

main 140

air correction 120

SECONDARY

idle 50

main 140

air correction 160

I'll be replacing with this:

PRIMARY

idle 60

main 140

air correction 145

SECONDARY

idle 55 (may stick a 60 here)

main 170

air correction 175

I'm rebuilding my weber 32/26 per cd's prescription. He says Float Level 40mm. Mine are of the plastic variety. how do you measure and where from?

thanks

dave

My car's headlights are weak. I also have some bumper-mounted 'brights' that a PO put on. I was thinking about taking these off and going back to a conventional low-beam/high-beam style modern headlight system. I'd like to get more lumination, but I don't want xenons or something like that.

any recommendations for a good set of headlights to replace the old? Are all these things on ebay worth considering?

I just redid mine last weekend. After it was all assembled I had the same thing happen. The fix for me was the bracket that bolts to the wiper motor itself (from the wiper assembly). The bracket needs to be pointing horizontal to the drivers side (pointing to the right) when the wipers are parked. You can change the wipers all you want, but if this bracket is not pointed E-W, extended to the drivers side, it will crunch down into the bottom of the windshield every time. The reason is that the bracket goes round and round on top the motor. When it is pointed to the right, it has completed the circle. That's where the wipers should be parked, when it completes the circle on the right side (the driver's side).

does that make any sense?

wow, what a difference it makes to refresh the wiper motor. I got the idea from Tom here:

http://laudeman.com/bmw_wiper.html

only I had seen a repaired motor for sale on ebay a few months back and bought it. Got around to doing the fix last night ...learned a little something along the way, but isn't that always how it is with these cars?

anyway, the wipers now turn as if the car was new, both speeds!

I also replaced the wiper water pump motor with one of those Porsche ones being sold on ebay.... http://i12.ebayimg.com/02/i/06/47/0a/2f_1_b.JPG

now I'm singin in the rain!

I have found a few old Blaupunkt radios. The FM on them work fine but I have no AM coming in at all, just static. The "M" band appears to be the same as the AM band (has the same frequency range 8 - 16 or so). The aerial antenna is hooked up. Any tricks here?

thanks

well, there is a stamp on the driver side of the carb, down at the bottom...it says DGAV and in some bigger letters next to it it says 33 B 1....

I have no idea what the 33 or the B or the 1 refer to.

I've talked to a club member (another O2 owher) here in Houston and he tells me that the "A" in DGAV designates "aqua", meaning Water Choke.

The thing is, there are no water lines coming in anywhere to this carb. There is only a single electric wire hooked to the round, cream-colored plastic piece on the valve-cover side of the carb.

Could it be that the carb was modified to be an electric choke? On the other hand, there are a few loose wires coming out the same wire bundle as the single wire that hooks to the plastic solenoid.

Yes, I'm clueless

could not get a hold of Pierce so called Top End Performance instead.

Ordered the parts, but they also recommended strongly a 60 idle jet for both primary and secondary, whereas CD recommends 55 for the secondary....so I got both (extra 6 bucks)