Happy Face

14 lb.ft.  what exactly does the +2.9 mean?

Can anyone confirm proper torque spec on these six 13mm hex bolts for the diff?

IMG_1321.HEIC

its turning out to be a challenge to find the correct OEM alternator pulley, the one that has a 'recessed' front bolt.  My current Bosch replacement alternator has the front bolt sticking out and hitting the cooling fan.  This is for my 1972 2002.

OEM alternators have gotten so expensive.  All I need is the pulley!

when's the next H-town gathering?

On 1/2/2023 at 6:28 PM, Howardpowered said:

they are a polycarbonate; less likely to fracture than glass …and lower weight. 😀 most of their weight seems to be in the pot metal heat sink into which the led module mounts.

 

tapping on the covers does not give that satisfying glass sound so i hope to avoid tapping on them any more often then i tap on the rest of the light fixtures.

 

would prefer if the holley name wasnt molded into center of the cover.

 

otherwise i think the visual appearance is spot on a glass sealed beam and wont look goofy in a few years like so many of those jeepish led lamps.

Howard,

are these plug and play? Any wiring mods required?

thanks

Dave

If it’s still available I’ll take it!

Will send pm


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Is the brake booster available?


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Andrew, that’s a really clean looking setup. Is that an Ireland intake manifold, linkage kit too?

The answer to this question might be buried somewhere in the many postings already here but I didn't see it.  What about the throttle cable itself coming from the accelerator pedal.  I've got the overhead webers now that haver the mechanical rod which links to the side of the overhead carb (32/36), but I understand I'll need to replace all of that with a cable pull system to move the throttle on the dual webers (and linkage).  Are there some tips or guidance to set that part up?

hung out with about 70 or so O2 brothers and sisters in Eureka Springs Arkansas!  

kudos Steve.  Thanks for bringing this platform together.  Its been enormously helpful!

damn, I hate welding

got my sync link in the mail.... not much to it....what now? ?

Carl. Thanks. I did see your article and learned a great deal from reading it (especially your explanation of wire coloring codes). Unfortunately my brain struggles with electric schematics so it will take additional study ;-), which I will do!




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sent you a PM Mike

live and learn - I've had this car since 2003, still climbing the learning curve.  So confirmed, my 'early' car has no headlight relays at all.  The low's are fused I'm assuming.  I'll take a close look at the existing switch and will begin looking into adding a more reliable relay system for both low's and high's

thanks chaps for your help!

-dave

A few pictures from further back in engine bay

Yes, I just have two relays visible. I had assumed one was for low beams, but perhaps not




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thanks for the help - good information.  What's interesting is after the car has been on the road for a while, say 45 minutes, the headlights will come on.... mystery...but after the car is parked and cools off, then starting up car and trying headlights... no light

that rectangular regulator is no longer being used so I removed it . The brown ground wires were a bit loose to that connector... I tightened them up and it didn't make a difference on the lights

I pulled off the relays and checked the connectors.... they 'seem' clean.  But I haven't tried the 'click' test.... need the second person for that (espouse) 

I hope its not the main light switch, that's a pain and kind of expensive to replace (I've seen them for $175)

My electrical woes just continue. - the latest, the headlights, low and high, do not come on. All other lights are working. Plus I can pull the stalk lever and the high beams do come on. But I can drive like that pulling the lever to keep lights on

This is a ‘72 car restored 11 or so years ago.

Not sure if this is a relay problem or an issue with the headlight switch.

A few pics of the existing relays in the car.

Any helpful tips or hints would be appreciated. Thanks - Dave

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fantastic.... that explains it and with some additional digging I found some previous posts about this.  I've got a Stahl header system so probably no real place to attach a 'winter' hose.  I think I'll just keep it in the summer position and try to get some 'cold' air into the air intake.  Thankfully we don't get really cold days down here!  Hoping the cold air intake will help on hot Texas days.

I went to the parts bin and reinstalled the summer/winter air box piece back on, with the traditional air filter cover (sitting on top of a Weber 32/36).  The manual shows a second flexible hose going straight down from that box, presumably to the bottom area of the radiator, not really sure where that hose goes but it would suck up air in the 'winter' position.  The top hose fits right into the air filter housing (I'm presuming).  The manual says to keep the air box in the 'summer' position for temps above 50 degrees F.  That's pretty much 365 days a year here in south Texas.

I like the idea of 'cold' air going into the carb, like the original design, although not really sure if it makes a huge difference  Again, still don't know though where the bottom 'winter' hose goes to or if it just drops down to the bottom of the engine bay.

thanks in advance for any ideas/tips - dave

Still available?


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My greatest fear is that when I die my wife will sell my O2 for what I told her I spent on it ....




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What I did to my O2 today (actually it was Friday), I found the electrical fault that was preventing the car from starting.  With full power on gauges, lights, fan, everything, the starter would not turn, no nothing.

Ultimately after some prompting from local 'O2 heads here in H-town, I inspected all wires and discovered that the ground strap coming from the neg battery terminal to the fender was frayed.  Put a jumper on there and Vroom!  she started right up.

Lesson-learned - check the ground strap