dapbmw

I brought that Touring from Gothenburg, Sweden into Canada it was originally in Sahara. Sold to Scott many many years ago.

Can you replace the throw out bearing just by undoing the tranny bolts and mounts , exhaust pipe and dropping the tranny to the ground with the front end jacked up?

If you had both sets from me you won't have fitting problems,  we made molds from brand new OEM BMW 2002 turbo parts so they should fit like it was a factory part. What I do know is these fibreglass parts won't shrink or expand like abs plastic parts and are repairable when they get cracked unlike abs plastic, you just throw them away.

BUMP! not sold yet

Needs cleaning. Buyer pays for shipping.

All Driver's side in various conditions.  What you see is what you get so please look at the pictures carefully. Buyer pays for shipping.

#1 - $30  No glass

#2 - $70

#3 - $70

#4 - $45

#5 - This is the one with no number on a piece of paper, probably for another BMW, E9, E3?

11 hours ago, Texaco51 said:

Ill take it

 

Pm me your address

From my collection of parts. These are NLA. Good shape for its age. There is dent on one of the end pls see pictures. Will need refinishing and new rubber mount gaskets.

Will ship to USA via Canada Post or UPS. Buyer pays shipping.

I recall on my other 02 we used an e30 M3 clutch disc with an 02 pressure plate, it was fine.  So using the e30 M3 pressure plate is a good idea as well, better clamping force is what I am after. 

Sound like a race tranny with straight cut gears, shifting is okay when cold but when warm it's hard. So what could be the problem. Clutch and pressure plate are fairly new. Release bearing and slave and master are older 

We can supply you with a DBilas intake manifold, 2 it'b's pre-drilled for Tii injectors and the linkages for the itb's, but you have to make the linkage from the itb's to the Kugelfischer pump. Some guys have done it already. DBilas itb's are better coz they are shorter than all other itb's out there and you can use those red Alpina velocity stacks or the DBilas air box  with enough clearance as long as you have a Tii brake booster.  

What would you use or recommend? Don't ask me if for street or race use  but I just want advice, don't care about driveability I just want good balance but my right foot says 4000 or higher. ?. I'd like to add an adjustable cam sprocket which i.e. And dbilas sells. So cam degree setup how to's whoikd be nice.

E12 head 9.5 euro piston, 89.5 bore, Weber 45's. lightened steel flywheel. 

Cams available:

I. E. : 302 or 306

DBilas:

300, 304, 310, 316/304

14 hours ago, kbmb02 said:

 

 

What's your plan - street or track usage?

 

Both but my question was has anyone used an I.E. 306 cam? Better than Schrick 304?

Anyone of you used cams by i.e. frim new billets? Like their 306 degree cam? Is it just as good as Schrick cams?

Thanks in advance !

yes the older fasteners were of better steel for sure than today's made in China junk.

Thanks for the advice guys, points well taken, it will rev past 7k maybe the odd time and why would I throw away brand new oem rod bolts that cost $10 each?  If I reuse the old ones maybe I'll just fleabay the new ones. 

I ordered a set of new connecting rod bolts and nuts which are made only by BMW and tried putting a pair on one connecting rod, it just won't go all the way, idk if they have to be whacked in place or heat the connecting rods then whack these new bolts in, OR are they pressed in?  The old connecting rod bolts where a bit stuck but not hard to take off a bit off whacking they came off easily. I checked both new old and they are the same. So what gives?

Thanks In Advance!

Has anyone done an itb setup using the tii system ? There are itb's available with no pre drilled holes. the only thing prob you have do aside from drilling and tapping is to rig the cold start probably on the intake manifold like Alpina or Engenmann does  and the linkage has to be modified from the pump to the itb's.

We parted the car in 2000 coz it got crushed on the container by the car on top of it and I ended up with these seats, no sliders or head rests. You can adapt your original 02 sliders on these. Pick up preferred but can ship but you have to pay for packaging costs at a UPS store.

Headrests, sliders and seat material can be bought here.

http://nml-depot.de/nmldepot006.htm

Hello Everyone,

Hope you all had a good new year's. I just wanted to post here that I still make the Fiberglass panels for the turbo and the alpina wheel arch flare and airfdam.

Prices have gone up a bit but still reasonable.

You can see the pics here:

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/dapbmw/library/fiberglass?sort=3&page=1

also it is recommended you use a good electric fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator. I would also recommend you buy the 123ignition distributor it solved a lot of carb related problems for a lot of people. 

I would suggest you go to weber tuning specialist who has access to a rolling dyno they will do it right for you the first time and you get what you pay for. You also have to remember you are installing a modification on your car so you have to sacrifice or compromise some driveability issues for the sake of getting more power out of your car, sometimes you can get it to work perfectly and sometimes it will work good but with minor issues.

Did you set all 4 idle mixture screws properly?   Intake manifolds seating properly? Any vacuum leaks? Are all the ignition parts changed recently? Compression on all 4 cylinders are good and within specs? What base gaskets are you using in between the carb and manifold?  

Rule of thumb the last thing you want to blame are the carbs themselves. A new Weber DCOE out of the box does not need to have it's float adjusted as they are set correctly at the factory so that is the last thing you want to do.

You did not indicate if you had 40's or 45's , a 151 is a 40 DCOE and a 152 is a 45 DCOE .  Saw your jet settings some of them need to addressed. My recommendation are for stock and slightly modified engines (292 cam, 9.5 compression, header, free flow exhaust , etc).  45's work the best even for stock motors.

Choke - 32  It's fine but 34 is ideal, but you can deal with that later.

Idle Jet - 60F8  That is too big for a stock motor.  I usually drop idle jets of either f8 or f9 in 45, 50 or 55. Not all engines are the same so some will run better on some jet sizes than others. So how do you know if you have the right idle jets? Let's say you have the idle mixture screws all dialled in properly, so if you turn them clockwise or counter clockwise from the reference point the idle should go low on both instances if not then you need to either go up or down in.5 increments. Once you got it right, then you should be fine.

Main jet - 115 It's a bit small and you would lean out, it's better to run richer than leaner, spark plugs are cheaper to replace than motor that broke due to a lean running condition.  120, 125 or 130 are ideal.

Air corrector - 200  That is too big the engine would fall flat past 5K rpm. 170, 175 or 180 are ideal.

Emulsion tube - F11  F11's starts slower on progression phase, use F9 or F16 as you want to the progression phase from the idle jet to emulsion jet to start much earlier so they overlap each other and you won't have a flat spot or stumble at the 1500-2500 range. Emulsion tubes work on vacuum pressure their job is to meter and emulsify the fuel properly.

Pump jet - 40 That is fine but 45 is much better, better to run richer than leaner. You don't have to change this one if you prefer.

Needle valve: 175  That is a bit small, usually that size is for engines 1300-1600 cc.  200 is ideal.

As far as ignition timing, with side drafts you want a little bit of advance so from the reference just bump it a bit and to check it you have it right, it's must be run with a load as in driving it and see.

Hope this helps you out.

To those who have been looking for me for the parts and carb advice, my apologies for not being here at all. I have been so busy with my day job and my digital record label so I rarely stop by here.  For the Alpina, Turbo and 02 fibreglass  body panels, and DBilas tuning parts, they are always available anytime. The body panels are also available now in carbon fibre but it will cost more and it's not really practical since fibreglass is light and easier to repair. 

Steve used to have them listed on the FAQ parts store when it was still on the old site, it's not now unfortunately as the FAQ was getting 10% of the sales all the time and that helps in funding for this site's upkeep. So Steve if you are seeing this maybe we should have it up at the FAQ store again.

Anyways anyone can find me at FB and message me if they prefer or email me directly at dapbmw at rogers dot com.

Cheers!

Why buy from Alpina when I still make them. PM me privately. Steve used to have them listed at the FAQ products for sale section. Yes they are available anytime .