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Rich S

Solex
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Everything posted by Rich S

  1. Actually around 135 for compression was ten off.
  2. Update. Compression test went well. All cylinders around 125. Turns out when I did an ohm test on the wires 2 of them were dead. Ordered a new set from IE. more to come.
  3. Compression check tomorrow from cool kid that has the tools…tbd
  4. Switched plug wires no change. Stock brand new Weber 32/36 carb nothing fancy.
  5. Here we go! Resolved last ignition issue ishhhh, but now face another. Cylinders 1, and 2 are not firing. Distributor cap…check, spark..check, fuel…check, vacuum leaks…check, valves adjusted..check. Popping from cylinder 1 when attempting to fire. Guessing creating pressure when valves are fully closed. Thoughts?
  6. Update. Went back to old school points and well, it started up. Now have a vacuum leak caused by airflow through cylinder 1 intake. Diagnosed using carb cleaner when idle went up when sprayed. It’s causing a total dead cylinder hopefully with some rtv it’ll fix it and fire otherwise looks like I’ll be looking deeper….thank you all for the insight it truly helped diagnosed this issue.
  7. First off thank you all for the replies. I may be going full hard ‘R’ on this one. Still have zero spark as compared to a sh@! spark a few days ago. Please see attached drawing now that I’ve got everything cleaned up. First question is could the relay be trash? Second is can I run a ground directly to the coil from frame? Reason being still reading 1.5v at (-) neg connection at coil when ignition switch is in on position. (+) positive side of coil is reading 11.5v when ignition is in on position.
  8. 10-4 thanks. Mine is a six fuse system would that change anything?
  9. 1. Do I need the external resistor inline with anything since it is electronic ignition? 2. The green wire from resistor goes back to ignition, not to coil. Black wire from ignition goes to coil.
  10. @Toby haven’t seen any photos to refer to what you are talking about.
  11. Definitely not sure on correct coil connection. I’ll revisit tomorrow and reply. Thank you thus far.
  12. 1. Purchased about a month ago. Motor and trans out. Went through the top end. New head gasket. Distributor has been moved in order to have it pointing correctly at #1 when #1 is at tdc. 2. new to the 02’ life so looking for guidance on pigtailing or properly wiring to coil. 3. absolutely positive plug wires are in correct firing order. 4. excellent question regarding capacitor….no idea…previous owner stuff.
  13. No I followed the Haynes manual rotating each cylinder to where the lobes were flat on the cam at tdc for each cylinder while adjusting the valves
  14. Motor running rough and won’t idle. Feels like it’s running on three cylinders. work done so far: -new Weber 32/36 carb. -adjusted valves at #1 tdc going by marker on timing chain pulley and lining up with oil bar. -new plugs -new ignition coil -set distributor to slightly behind #1 cylinder when at tdc going off of marker on timing chain pulley and oil bar. I took some voltage readings with the key in the on position and motor not running. It is a non points electronic ignition setup. any thoughts are welcome! Thanks, Rich
  15. It’s a 71’. Somehow fat fingered it. It’s a Ti that they converted to single carb. Numbers and badging match up for Ti. Why is it starting and running with what I unplugged. Electronic ignition.
  16. New to the forum, but have been referencing quite frequently to troubleshoot issues. I am an enthusiast, but by no means expert in the 02 real. My son has bought a 1971 02’ too. We have gone through the top end and it is solid now (new head gasket, checked valves, etc…). The issue is when we start ot it is good for about 3 seconds and shuts off. I unplugged a wire from what appears to be a ballast relay and the car runs without issue. What could be the issue with this? Photos are attached. Thank you in advance. -Rich
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