M10Fan

Window regulator stopped working. Got the door card off and discovered the arm of the regulator was moving freely unattached to the glass. The pin on the end of the arm is intact. Found a couple washers and a spring. But no circlip. Does anyone know the size I'm looking for? Or a part number by chance. Pelican Parts seems to think it is a size 7. But I thought I'd check with the experts first. Thanks so much.

Appreciate the feedback folks. I drove the car for 30 minutes then checked the temp of all the rotors. The passenger side front was 40 degrees hottest than the rest. I took the rotor off and took it to O’Reilly’s for resurfacing. There was apparently a significant worn spot (the previous owner had a good time in this thing!). They were able to improve the rotor though not entirely fix it. I reinstalled and the shimmy is 90% better. I’ll be replacing the rotors at some point in the near future. But this helped immensely.

Hi all. I have the Wilwood break kits sold by Ireland Engineering installed on my '76 (front and rear). I am getting some significant shudder and am planning on inspecting the rotors and pads. Wondering if anyone else has these kits and if you have done this job before? Any tricks or befuddling issues encountered working on them? I did not install these kits, they were on the car at the time of my purchase. Any advice appreciated. Thanks so much!

🤷🏻‍♂️ taking things one step at a time.

Oh that’s an interesting idea. Regarding the test in AC mode with a multimeter: should this be performed in the same manner as the alternator test in the FAQ article? With the motor > 1000rpm, headlights and blower on?

Thanks John. I will move the ground. I have actually already tried a new regulator since it was such an easy and inexpensive option. No dice. Symptoms unchanged.

I’m hoping this is brief and kind of straightforward…. ‘76 02, carb, not tii. Charging system problem. L light comes on dim once car starts and idles. With throttle, it brightens and the volt gauge goes well past 12 up to 14-16. Very linear relationship between throttle, L light brightness, and volt gauge. I followed the very nice article on troubleshooting of the charging system. The battery is right at 12.6V. The alternator at 1300 rpms with the lights and blower on reads 12.3V. I performed the regulator bypass with the wire bridge and this had no effect on the aforementioned symptoms. I futzed around with the alternator ground and actually moved the distal end to a bolt on the engine block that I believe is the intended - though not original to me - location. I am fairly certain based on all this and the sub 14V at the alternator that the alternator is the culprit. I have included 2 pics to hopefully rule out any other issues. the first is the location of the ground wire - is this acceptable? The second is the female alternator plug looking pretty ratty. Does this need replacement before the alternator? My feeling is that if the issue was only a crusty old plug, the symptoms would be less consistently reproducible. Am I on the right track? As always, all the help here is greatly appreciated.

Thank everyone for the advice. Once I got down into the engine bay and looked at everything I realized the previous owner had already reinforced the bracket. The subframe has a nice powdercoat finish on it and has no indications of damage. That was a relief! The driver side engine mount has ben sheared in half though. With some rangling I managed to pull the bracket off the block and have a new mount on the way. I had purchased the engine support bar pictured above in preparation for removing the subframe. Glad I had it on hand because once I removed the sheared mount, the engine wanted to shift quite a bit! That little device is pretty awesome for the money. Again, thanks so much for all the advice. I'll update this thread further if anything else interesting transpires. Gotta figure out the electrical issue now. So please excuse another post from me...

It is a 76. I have looked at the subframe and can confirm it is the one in the video posted by Son of Marty. Looks like I am going to learn how to remove the subframe.

Hellfire. The engine rocks exactly as in that video. That is... a problem... Would that cause the steering problem described? With that broken driver's side motor mount? I'm trying to imagine how that could cause the steering problem. But regardless it needs to be fixed. Do folks recommend trying to weld in a piece of metal like the one IE sells? Or replace the whole subframe? Neither looks terribly simple! Thanks much.

Looks like the engine mounts are ok. Not sure where the steering rubber disc is. Will look that up.

This is a very strange problem to me. Hopefully one of you many geniuses can help. A few days ago I was backing my ‘76 2002 out of a parking spot. I turned the wheel left to pull out of the lot and felt a dull thud under my hands and heard it in the engine bay. Fairly subtle. Not loud. Started driving and the alignment felt a little off. Shortly after I noticed that when turning the wheel left, instead of allowing the wheel to gently correct itself back to 0 degrees, it had to be pulled back to center manually. In fact, if the turn was especially sharp necessitating a lot of left wheel turn, the work of returning the wheel to center was noticeably difficult (and a little scary!). Almost simultaneously I noticed that when accelerating from a stop to speed when I would clutch to shift, the car would lurch forward fairly aggressively. And the shifter would lurch as well which would make the pattern of movement from 2nd to 3rd gear with the shift knob quite different! Felt as if the transmission was shifting forward and to the right as this would make 3rd gear (from 2nd) further forward and further right. Hopefully that makes sense. Lastly, and also corresponding temporally to these symptoms, the red L battery indicator on the dash has begun occasionally lighting up for a second at a time. Almost fading on and off seemingly at random. I have looked all over the engine bay and can see nothing odd or out of place. I put the front end on jack stands and crawled around beneath the front end and also could find nothing. I thought maybe the control arm, stabilizing bar, steering assembly, suspension components could all or individually be damaged. Found nothing - though I’m not a pro by any means, so I should say there is no obvious problem. Any help appreciated. Thanks so much.

I appreciate all the replies! Looks like the issue is where the throttle rod connects to the carburetor after all. There is quite a lot of play there. It looks like the prior owner tried to squeeze those two tongs on the rod together with pliers or a wrench to address this. That may have helped some. I will try to get a nylon bushing in there as suggested and see if that helps. But oddly, now that I can conceptualize in my mind what is happening when the accelerator is depressed, it bothers me much less. Weird how that happens. I will also clean up the area behind the pedal. And the carpet needs to be tacked down a little better too to prevent it from bunching up behind the pedal hinge. Thanks very much to everyone for their help! Very grateful for this community.

I am trying to diagnose a less than ideal gas pedal. When moving at speed the feedback in the pedal is fine, linear. But trying to start from a stop while modulating the clutch with the left foot is a challenge. It is hard to find the point in the pedal travel where the throttle engages and opens and therefore allows just the right amount of power for a smooth take off. The clutch feels pretty good actually. I think I can tell pretty decently where the contact point is within the clutch pedal travel. But the sloppy and obstinate accelerator makes for noisy (as in excessive throttle) and occasionally jerky starts from a stop and less than ideal shifts from 1st to 2nd. Admittedly some of this could certainly just be operator inexperience, but I am certain something could be tightened or tuned up. I realize the pedal box may need to be assessed but was wondering if anyone had any experience with a similar problem or ideas to point me in the right direction before I set off. Thanks for all the great info on this forum.

Just wanted to close the loop on this question. Once I got the car on jack stands and had a look, the selector rod was broken. The pin on the transmission side had broken off at the weld site. I was able to confirm the setup was indeed from Ireland Engineering. I ordered a new DSSR from IE as a replacement and just got it installed. That was really no easy task at all. The fit is incredibly snug and there was lots of grunting and cursing involved. Probably should have taken the drive shaft off, but I really did not want the project to get too involved. Car drives great, gearbox feels fantastic. Thanks for the advice and insights.

bergie33: Thanks for the edits to the photo. That's much clearer. I think your assessment is spot-on. But I'm actually not convinced that metal arm was welded to that nub. I think the nub was just hammered into that mangled-looking hole. Having read up on the shifter design in these cars, this one seems really elementary. But I have to admit it did shift very nicely prior to its collapse. I'll see about re-attaching the current linkage but am leaning toward replacing. Is the best plan to buy one of the LATE kits from IE and go from there? If anyone has had to recently strip out the shifter kit entirely, tips are greatly appreciated.

Hi there. New user, new owner. 1976 2002. Several mods prior to current ownership. I started the car up recently and the shifter was nothing but slop. I could hear metal clanging with each thrust of the stick. Felt around underneath and discovered a metal bar swinging freely. I have researched the set up of the shifter mechanism. And I have attached a couple photos of the disconnected arm and the connection point is also plainly visible. But I cannot square this equipment with diagrams and repair kits readily available. Does anyone know what it is I’m looking at here? And any advice is very very much appreciated. Thank you so much. -Stephen