Fla2002

I have a complete Behr a/c set. All the panels, shifter console, pressure tested evaporator, new expansion valve, heater box, etc from a '76. Was going to use on my car but changed plans.

Thanks,

Tony 727-421-0014

I have a complete Behr a/c unit with all the panels, shifter console, refurbished evaporator, new expansion valve, and heater box if you have not found any.

I should have counted them. Some are undisturbed originals so I let them be.

I had the same issue. I have chased grounding issues on other cars so I just clean  all I can find.

Problem solved:

During this whole process I decided to repair my hazard signal button and remove the tooth pick. 
 

Using advice provided by members I repaired the switch. Re installed the switch and now everything works. Thanks for all the help

I installed the EL 13 flasher and connected the wiring as stated. Jumping the wires activated the flasher and the turn signals worked. I just need to figure out why I am not getting power independently from jumping wires.

Jumping the purple/white with the green/purple I get the signals to flash but no dash indicator.

Last time I checked I was not getting power to the flasher. I get power to the hazard flasher. I did not remove the ignition switch but good advice yo check the total circuit 

This is very helpful. I am sure it is another simple fix for a problem I created. The good part about this car it was complete and everything worked prior to disassembly. 

I was not sure but that explains one question. I guess I will go through the turn signal system to determine the problem 

1976 2002

I know there are pages and pages of ideas and solutions but my turn signals worked fine before the restoration and now they don't . I have the usual hazard light switch with a tooth pick wedged in to hold it down and worked fine.

Just starting to follow all the recommendations and have changed out the signal flasher to El 13. I am going to check all the grounds. The dash instruments and cluster lights work. The parking lights, license plate lights, and brake lights are working.  I did change out the bulbs when re installing but did not use the specific part number but a bulb that fit.

One item I noticed is my hazard light is slow to illuminate and very dim when the headlights are on. I know it was bright prior to the turn signal issue.

I do not have power to the turn signal switch but have power to the hazard switch.

I can say putting this car back together for a ground up restoration, doing all the mechanical, rebuilding the suspension, and sunroof  has been simple and relaxing. The turn signals are not.

I have the Behr installation instructions so I will look them over. I would think just eliminate the heater box harness and use the A/C harness. Sounds easy but we will see.

Thanks for the info about how the system works!

1976 2002 A/C wiring advice needed.

I am upgrading the Behr unit to 134 with all new components, cleaned, pressure tested the unit and changed expansion valve. Bypassing the heater control valve and eliminating the fan box and heater system. The system did not operate when I got the car but the fan/heater box needs rebuilding which I believe was part of the problem.

I have the original wiring harness and the Behr installation instructions. The fan relay and under hood wiring is still in place and when I removed the system to restore the car all the system parts were in place.

My question is eliminating the fan and heater system and using the existing harness. Has anyone tried this? I am not a wiring genius but can read the wiring diagram and fumble through the process. She is coming back to life. Also, I will have the heater box assembly available if someone needs it.

Any updates on the left and right door seal availability?

Has anyone tried a shift boot from an early E30. I am replacing mine and it looks like the E30 leather boot

My brake warning light works so these wires must be for the brake balance switch. My car was built 11/1975. Still working on getting power to the coil. Tail lights and parking lights work. I did notice my hazard light is illuminated when I pull the headlight switch and I thought that switch is part of the turn signal/brake light circuit. 

Still no power to 9,10,11,12. 

Can anyone identify these 2 wires? They are part of the harness that connects to the brake fluid reservoir cap. 

Once again, great information. I will be back at it today. It appears I have everything re connected as I found it as somethings are working. I did not remove the harness from the car, just moved it all into a plastic bag for painting. Hope I did not break a wire somewhere in the harness. 

What I discovered is that 1 wire from the the blue emissions harness goes to #15 on the starter. I traced it back to the green/white wire plugged into #12 on the fuse box. So I have the clear resistor wire and the black/red on the +side coil. This was done by whoever removed the emissions system. 

Now I discovered I have no power on the #7-12 side of the fuse box. I have to jump #12 to get power to the coil. Also, no headlights but the parking and tail lights work, no turn signals. Keeping in mind everything worked before I started the restoration

The diagrams and emissions bypass information are excellent and I appreciate 

Wow, great information and details. All emissions parts are gone but wiring. I will get back at it and try to remove the emission harness. Thanks for the help.

1976 2002 manual transmission going back together. All systems worked prior to disassembly. Emission system removed by previous owner but I believe the wiring is still there.

Can anyone identify these blue wires attached to the left relay on firewall? What are those relays? Thanks in advance, going to have a few more questions and I do have a wire diaphragm.

I ended up lowering the cradle a little and removing the upper differential bolts. That gave me enough room to just get it in place. I forgot to mention I replaced the carrier bushings with polyurethane which appear thicker. Thanks for the advice.

Restoring my '76 2002 and re assembling the drive train. Tried to re install my driveshaft today and the rear flange is tight to the differential flange. It is the original driveshaft just cleaned and painted no other changes. The transmission side is in all the way in and bolted. The center support has room to slide back and forth but it is now too tight. What am I missing or not aware of?

PM option is restricted I can call you or call me 727-421-0014

Looking for a fiberglass rear bumper or possibly a used Euro shorty to fit a 1976 2002