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wim van wesemael

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Everything posted by wim van wesemael

  1. wim van wesemael
    You're right. Unfortunately there isn't an awful lot of places left without rust. I'm just starting out but it's difficult deciding how far to go. Anyway whether I'm going to bare metal or not, I do have tot prepare it for a spray over.
  2. wim van wesemael
    I do have a suitable 125mm variable speed angle grinder. Luckily. I did however found out that maxing it out greatly helps with stripping speed of the gray rubber undercoating. As for how perfect I'm doing it. It's a mental thing. I'm not taking apart an entire car and spending a small fortune, more then I might for the rest of my life on a car just to do a sub optimal job. Especially because being more meticulous is only costing me time and not money. So just skipping in this phase because of me being lazy is not an option ?
  3. wim van wesemael
    Thanks for the pictures. Looks like the only thing I'm short on is patience ? It does come off and I do get to bare metal like this. I've noticed you took the nose off (which I have to do as well). You didn't brace the front end of the chassis between both sides. Should I be doing this? I'm a little worried about taking off to much panels and distorting the body... Thanks a lot for the info. This keeps me on track.
  4. wim van wesemael
    I'm a little reluctant to dip it (if I'd figure out where I could). I'm sure some corrosive residue will remain somewhere and start to mess up the paint. For now a heatgun and scraper followed by a wire wheel does seem to work on surfaces but of course plenty of areas hard to get to. I have what I need to blast over here but I'm reserving that for those corners etc. I guess this is just going to take ages...
  5. wim van wesemael
    I had the idea to coat the bare metal in some kind of primer... Either a red metal etch primer or a zinc weld through... When I have some substantial areas clean I'll put it in epoxy primer.
  6. wim van wesemael
    Thank you for your input. Will media blasting cope with the rubber like substance?
  7. wim van wesemael
    Hi there, I've stripped my 02 touring to the shell and am now left with a very dirty and rusty body. I was going to start replacing sheet metal but now I'm a bit puzzled. Obviously some cleaning and sanding must be done before I can weld. But would it be better to sand the whole car (and remove everything sticky like sound proofing) and then begin welding? In what order should I tackle this? Also it would seem the underside has a gray rubbery coating covered by a sort of white paint and then the typical black undercoating. The black and white stuff shoots of with an air chisel but the gray goo is next to impossible to remove even with a wire wheel. I'm assuming sand blasting isn't going to work either. Do I need to get to absolute bare metal for a respray? This gray rubbery coating is really annoying to get off and I'm a afraid that I'll always have a smear left somewhere. Thanks,
  8. wim van wesemael
    Allright! I didn't think about the panels warping or dimpling. It should be manageable though. I'm not going to to use it for hauling large loads anyway. So in general, the suggestion here is to keep the gap and still glue it.
  9. wim van wesemael
    It's mostly the edges that are gone. Weird enough the quarter panels are unaffected. So I'll need to fabricate this edge anyway. It would be weird to patch it up but then leave such a large gap?
  10. wim van wesemael
    So in essence, when I figure out the panel puzzle, welding or spot welding these and sealing is an improvement...
  11. wim van wesemael
    Well it doesn't *look* welded. But then how is it held in place? The whole rear is smudged by anything sealer like in existence from the last two decades. It's nearly impossible to find any seam and I'm not keen on starting cutting without a plan.
  12. wim van wesemael
    Hi there, I've just started the repairs on my 02 touring. Being a touring body panels are ultra rare and I'm planning on fabricating as much as possible. The trunk floor or pretty much everything below the bumper line is rust. Parts of the floor at the back panel were being held together by bondo and fiberglass. Especially the seams near the rear panel. Around the fuel tank the damage is so bad I don't see how the edge of the floor panel is welded to the sides. As I'm trying to stick to factory look I'm looking for photos and info on how these panels attach. For now I can only find that the floor has an edge which touches the quarter panels. Is it welded in the seam? Spot welded through this edge onto the sides?
  13. wim van wesemael
    Hi, I've recently started dismanteling my touring to begin my restoration proces. I've noticed most of the replacement panels are affordable but the touring panels, if available, are triple the price. I've been asking myself to what extent I could modify some panels for touring use. Most of my problems are located in the trunk. The trunk floor is available as a whole but it mentiones (Wallosh) "not for touring". On first looks I do not see the difference. Most of my rust is around the fueltank and in the rear left corner where the floor panel meets the rear panel. The lower rear panel is also gone. I've noticed the exhaust for a touring is on the left side instead of right side for the sedan. I'm seriously considering the normal panel and then moving the exhaust recess to the other side. Even though this will take me a while to properly tig it in place it's less then a third of the price. Any advice here?
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