Lefty

I have a 1974 2002 with a crack in the head. The head currently on the car is a 68 TI 121. Looks like my pistons are dome type. The head I am looking at is a rebuilt E21. Not sure if it will fit here is a picture of my pistons. 

Just found a crack in my 68 TI 121 head that is on my 74 lower.  My car is a 74. Not sure when they replaced the head.  I live in San Diego. I would gladly buy it and come get it. Do you know if it will fit my lower?  $450 seems reasonable.  I’ll do a little research and see if it will fit. 

Here is a picture of my pistons. I posted a message about the compatibility on this forum. 

I bought the 3m fake stuff and my plan is to restore my existing trim. 

I just need the receiver part of the belts. Your first two pictures show those. Will you take $25 for just those?

David

I am in the market for a low mileage automatic transmission for a 1974 2002. I live in the San Diego, California area. 

6 hours ago, Jbaumshelter said:

Lefty,

If he doesn't want to ship it, try posting a request in the "parts wanted" section. You are in Cali....It's like, 2002 parts heaven out there compared to us out here in Middle earth. 

Good idea. I’m still getting used to the site. Thanks

 I have a missing bolt from my right engine mount bracket. Does anyone know the size of the bolt?  This begs another question... In general, is there a set of different bolts that one should keep on hand for these types of emergencies?  Where is everyone’s go to place for hardware?  I would like to stick to BMW or at least a close approximation. 

7 hours ago, Lefty said:

How many miles on it?

What year? Where do you live? How long has it been out?

3 minutes ago, dave-r said:

I removed it to install a manual transmission, no issues other than a few seals as listed before that could use replacement. I would do a pan gasket and filter. Unknown miles. Operates perfectly. I would want $75.00 for it BUT I would rather not ship it due to size and weight...I think I saw you are in California maybe? Couldn't be farther from me!!

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

What is it’s weight? If you can box it, maybe I can have a shipping company pick it up?  Is it from a 1974?  How long have to had it out?

1 hour ago, Kingryan86 said:

I have a good automatic I’ll sell for $150. Has leaks but shifted good

How many miles on it?

Yes it does have A/C but it doesn’t work. I don’t think it has work in a while. I live in San Diego so I really don’t need it anyway. 

21 minutes ago, Conserv said:

 

That’s what I would do if I had a 2002A.  And I would have multiple spare trans, just in case...

 

Like they say, they’re not making them anymore!  ?

 

Does the car have A/C?  A/C cars, like mine, are set up for a slightly higher idle because the activation of the A/C compressor slows the engine.  “Fast idle” cars are often set for a fast idle for a reason. If it doesn’t have A/C, is the automatic choke fully releasing after the car has warmed up?

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

8 minutes ago, Lefty said:

 

Thanks that is good advice. It’s a Weber 32/36. The idle was easy to adjust but I would like to tune it properly. Do you know of a good resource?

1 hour ago, Jbaumshelter said:

Lefty,

As for the 2 barrel carb adjustment it would be helpful if you sent a picture if you don't know for sure what type/style it is. 

If you have the original Solex, I can't help at all other than to tell you to replace it with a Weber 32/36. That's just my opinion, some people love the original carb for all different reasons. I love my Weber because i'm not a rocket scientist.

Once you get the idle down to 1100 or 1000 RPM you hard shift should go away. It makes a big difference. Also, the correct tuning of you carb can have an effect on how the car shifts. It's not going to make it smother but it does change the timing of the shift when it's tuned correctly. (Maybe it just feels that way, incorrectly tuned automatics will feel very weak when shifting into 2nd & 3rd gears. Keep this in mind. The automatic cars preformed just slightly slower than the standard trans cars at 0-60 mph from the factory).

 

My 2 cents of advice getting started with you new car:

1 - Service everything including the Auto Trans

2 - Make sure all you safety equipment is working (Brakes, pads, brake lines, brake booster, Brake master cylinder, headlights, horn, mirrors wipers etc).

3. Check all the hoses everywhere! 40+ year hoses/fuel lines can cause all sorts of problems.

 

Actually, I'm just going to stop there and tell you to read this post below multiple times!!!! 

 

 

How much are you asking for it?  How many miles are on it? Why did you remove it?

9 hours ago, dave-r said:

Lefty,
I am in SouthCentral Pennsylvania and my auto that I just removed shifts like butter but does need dipstick O-ring, Speedo drive Oring (small issues) but is available if you find you need it. Price would be very reasonable. Let me know!!

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

Thanks for all the responses. I just joined this site. What a great resource!

It shifts firm but the idle is definitely to high. Is there a good resource for the 2 barrel carb adjustment? I just got the car so I am working in triage mode to take care of the big items first. I have some disks and pads coming right now for the brakes. I’m thinking about buying a second tranny rebuilding it and having it ready. 

Level was correct. Fluid was pink and didn’t smell. Still good advice. I’ll service it before tackling a rebuild. 

6 hours ago, Schnellvintage said:

I would check the trans fluid. Is it still reddish in color? Not orange. Does the fluid smell burnt or have a foul odor. When was the last trans service? (Filter and proper fluid). Are there particles in the fluid? I would perform a trans service first and then see what happens.
Matt


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just got a 1974 2002.  I got the automatic for my wife.  I really wanted the manual.  The transmission shifts hard and when warm going from neutral to A (drive) screeches the tires. Their is also a very slow leak coming from the transmission at the seal where it contacts the motor. Not sure if I need to rebuild it, buy a rebuilt transmission, or what. Any advice would be highly appreciated. Also, where can I get a rebuild. Would a manual conversion be cheaper?