EvilEmpire

I've tried all my IOS and my macbook to connect - no luck.  I'm afraid it's a 123 failure as you said.

After 3 years of flawless operation and tuning on my different race engine configurations, my 123 Ignition distributor stopped communicating with my ipad during a race. Now I can't get it to bluetooth connect at all to any of my IOS devices. I've reinstalled the phone app - i've done the 123 unit reset. The unit has power - blue light is on and blinks occasionally. The apps under device just have a spinning wheel and never connect now. Anyone have any other ideas?

Thanks Toby - the "hellifiknow" is probably the best answer yet.  So it's RACECAR right - you break stuff. 

If I can get the folks at KM to respond I'll try their rockers - if not guess I can go back to IE or VAC.

Thanks for all the help.

What should the target spring rate be for the double valve springs?

I have the IE dual valve springs.

So broke a stock Febi/Bilstein rocker exhaust number 1 at this weekends endurance race - have CatCams 310 with dual valve springs. Rev limit at 7200 and ran it to there all the time. Engine could run higher 7500-7800 with that cam. 

I'm trying to find best replacement plan - contacted CatCams - their rockers are out of stock and will not have more till mid fall. 

sent emails to VAC and KM to check availability.  

7 hours ago, Furry Camel said:

Jeff Ireland sent a good used q/r box to our friend down south to make the copy for the kit. He committed to a bunch of kits, but it wasn’t known at that point that the install was as labor intensive as it turned out to be. I had to learn by fire the steps involved and built a few for IE, two for selling and one for the show room as a demo. Now that I have it down, it still is two full days work. 

WoW!!  That doesn't sound at all like a DIY with a little professional help project. Thank you all for sharing.  Still would like one for the race car but .... 

I'm interested in Quick Ratio box for my vintage race car.  Those that have one, is it worth for racing?

Has anyone installed the Ireland QR kit? How much custom fiddling was needed? 

May have myself a N20 cheap with DME, anyone make any progress on doing this swap? I have a chassis that is in need of an engine....

Need an E12 Cylinder head for new race engine build - my machinist found my current one is cracked.

I have a 121 head and a E21 2.0 head if someone wants to trade. Otherwise happy to pay fair price.

Thanks

Craig

I've had to give all this a thought or two and this has changed since I started building a Street/Track/Time Trial car. Plan was a Roll Bar Hoop, Harness Bar and removable Diagonal bar. Use 4 point Schroth DOT harnesses, back seat delete. The reason for the removable diagonal bar was just convenience when used on street. Any roll bar near head should be padded - helmet or not the padding will help and is probably safer than just hitting the B pillar with your un-helmeted head.

Since starting my project I have acquired a dedicated race car with some what of a cage in it. I have to replace the diagonal bar since it's not one continuous piece, is not in the plane of the main hoop and doesn't attach low enough. The diagonal is there to limit the main hoop deflection. I have to put in proper x type door bars also. 

So with the dedicated track car I may still put the roll bar in the street car because if I do use it for a track day harnesses keep you in the seat and that is so important to drive the car well.

Now I had to do some major adjustment due to the quality of the IE bumper - it was way to wide, and one end is way shorter than the other. But a little extra fiberglass work and it's on.

I mounted my IE fiberglass rear bumper using PVC pipe. Used the existing 76 bumper holes. Duct tape to custom adjust the fit and alignment. Then bolt it from inside the trunk. Got a nice tight fit. 

So like you I foolishly decided I wanted to race. My project 2002 is now just going to be street and HPDE car. 3 weeks ago I bought a 76 race prepped 2002. Just that it was race prepped for SCCA ITB about 20+ yrs ago. Many things needed or needs to be updated to current racing specs. Mostly fix the cage to current door bar requirements, Put in new racing seat and harnesses, proper cage padding, Fire Suppression, move the battery cutoff into the car, move the battery to safer location....

Plan is to run COMSCC Time trials, Vintage events and Local Champ/Lemons.

I've done few of HPDE and some time trial events. 

I just completed Bertil Roos 3 day racing course at Lime Rock Park (they bought most of the Skip Barber school assets and instructors). So completely worth it. Learned so much about car control, how to look at race track, evaluate your line and planning escape if you screw up. Also qualifies me to get my SVRA license. 

So that's how I'm starting. Keeping the car basic, want the cheapest most available parts, because things will break or wear out.

Out of the paint shop.

All the welding and body work is done finally - now it's in the paint booth this week.

I will be installing Schroth 4 points Profi ASM into my time trial car as soon as we rebuild it. I have used the Schroth 4 points in other cars and they work very well. Also the Profi ASM can be used with head and neck restraint, I use Schroth's version. 

Thanks AA and Halboyles  

Does that mean I have the Tii Struts to fit that hub and rotor?

Hi Folks - finally got around to pull front wheels off in prep to drop the front subframe to clean and repair. I found that I have vented disk rotors - but I don't understand what I have here - looks like the stock hub? with some vented rotor and ATE 4 piston caliper that looks like it sits properly on the rotor. Now it's all rusted trash and needs to be replaced but I don't know what I have here. I've searched through many of the brake upgrade threads but haven't seen this combo for a regular 2002. Any help appreciated.

Thanks for the replies  and suggestions. The stock rods as you say will be more than enough but those shinny things in that picture - I want! 

I need new connecting rods for my track/street engine rebuild. (new 9.75:1forged pistons, 90.5mm bore, 292 cam, dual 40s). The rods that were in engine were unlabeled H-Beam that PO hacked by grinding the webbing off a bunch of them I assume to balance the weights. Total Junk and I don't want that again so willing to buy quality new but don't need the top of line. Currently where can I get Stock rods that are matched or good quality aftermarket that don't look like the overseas crap I have?

Son completed welding this morning. Grind and finish to do. 

You can do MIG - got my son the welder a new TIG machine and he likes using it. 

We are in the middle of the same type of repair. We cut out just what needed to be repaired. Had to rebuild the inner rocker with some flat stock. We got the replacement panel and cut that panel to make the patch.

Welded on the jack point with some flat stock. Using flange tool to put the patch panel under the top seam so it fits tight. Punch holes on bottom to spot weld to lower side. TiG weld the seams. Some pictures

I would like a set