DetroitMatt

I'll take em' PM sent. Thanks!

Hi, I'm looking for the levers / arms / supports that hold the trunk up. They're bolted at bottom and then snap into the tension bars under the trunk lid. Photo below highlighting what I need. I need both left and right sides and bonus points if you happen to have them in Malaga Red. Thanks! Matt

The OEM doors came with the car thankfully. I'd imagine they're hard to find these days and fairly expensive. They still had the part number stickers on them from my local BMW dealer. I'm guessing they were purchased in the early 90s and then kept indoors the whole time. The paint is a single stage AkzoNobel product. The brand name is UTech 500. I'm probably in the minority here, but I like the looks of single stage on these cars. Too me it looks more "vintage" and closer to the paint that they came with from the factory.

Hi Everyone, After spending (and saving) for quite a few years, I was finally able to pull the trigger on getting the body work and paint done on my 1972 2002. The owner of the shop has been kind enough to send me progress report photos as he moves through the process, so I figured it might be fun to share. I chose a single stage Malaga red paint, which is the original paint color on the car. I like the look of single stage as it keeps that retro vibe. I also added new OEM doors and fenders to the car as there was some damage to the original ones. This was by no means meant to be a concours project. I plan on this car being a driver, but the images he's sending me are looking promising. Here's the the first batch of photos. I'll post more as I get them.

Good advice. I’ll go back to TDC, start the process over again, and then graduate to the curves Mark posted above. Then after that I’ll start to add in some MAP curves if needed.

Thank you! This helps a lot. I did have it hooked up to the vac line on the carb, but thought I read somewhere that it should go to the manifold. I’ll switch it back as soon as I get her back from paint. This I was just what I needed though, a nice baseline. Much appreciated.

I’m wondering if any of you might be able to offer me some advice on my 1972 2002. The car is 100% stock save for a Weber 32/36 and a free flowing ANSA exhaust. Stock cam. Stock pistons. Really basic set up. So here’s my journey so far: I just rebuilt the carb and after following CD’s recommendations, it seems to be running just a hair rich, but is working and it now runs drastically better. In the hopes of not doing too much at once, I’m just going to call the carb sorted for now. Then, Just when I though things were running well, I lost spark. Turns out the ground wire came off the stock distributer and while I was going to just solder it back on, I later decided to invest in a 123 Ignition, a red Bosch coil, new plugs and new wires. I found TDC, dropped in the new distributor (I got the Bluetooth version) but found it wouldn’t start or run with whatever curves were pre-programmed on there, so I updated the curve values to what I think are the Tii numbers and rotated the dizzy a little until it fired up and ran pretty good. It’s not perfect by any means, and while it runs much more smoothly now, I feel like I can get a little more power here and there with some added advance in the right places. It also doesn’t want to fire up right away when cold, so I know it needs more finessing. My main question is: Does anyone (Who’s running the same set up as me: stock everything with a 32/36 and exhaust) have any screen shots of curves that you’re using that are working well for you? I know this is an iterative process and every car will be a little different, but I’m just looking for a curve map to start from that’s a little closer to my carbed car than the curve I have in there. Oh. I’m also running a vac line from the top of the manifold to the the 123Tune distributor. So any tweaks to the MAP curves would be appreciated as well. I’m very thankful to be in the fine tuning stages, but any advice you could offer would be appreciated. I have the car in for paint this week and I’m excited to get it dialed in perfectly so I can really start putting some miles on it this summer. Attached are a couple of screen grabs of what I’m running now. Thanks!

Update! The Venturi were in the right spots. Floats were way off, so I adjusted them to 40mm from the carb to the BOTTOM of the floats this time while resting on the needle. 51mm when they’re hanging slack. Put it all back together. Nothing. Got frustrated so I took the whole thing apart and rebuilt it yet again. Blew air and brushes in every hole. Nothing. Then on a whim, and because I was running out of stuff to do, I put the old needle in and tried again. Voila! She started right up and ran perfectly. Not sure why the needles would have been different (the old one had a black tip, new one had a red tip), but I think it was a combo of the float levels and the wrong needle apparently. Thanks for the communal help everyone! It’s really really appreciated! On to the next thing in this restoration journey.

I’ll double check the venturi placement again, but based on that diagram Buckeye posted, it looks like I did indeed mess up the floats. I measured from the gasket face to the top of the floats. It appears I need to go off the bottom of the floats for reference. And having the prescription for other side of it (51mm) is great. Thanks for sending. I wasn’t able to find that schematic when I was rebuilding.

Thanks Tom. I tried to attached the photo again, not sure what happened there. I have the brass floats and I measured 40mm from the gasket surface to the “bottom” of the floats while it rested on the needle. I put a catch can in the engine bay, cranked it and the fuel pump spits out gas with authority, so I’m confident we’re good on fuel pressure. Plus, when I pull the fuel line off, it really sprays gas everywhere, so the blockage has to be at the carb. Which makes me feel like it’s the floats. It’s almost like there’s a big air bubble in the system that needs to get bled out, even though I know it doesn’t work like that. Also, I have the F50 emulsion tunes and have matched CD prescription exactly. I replaced the tiny plastic fuel filter in the carb inlet with a new unit as well. The old one was pretty brittle.

I’m at a roadblock guys, so any insights would be appreciated. After adjusting timing, adjusting valves, throttle linkage, setting the points and adding a new cap, rotor and condenser I was still having drivability issues (stalling during braking, not idling when warm). So, I decided to pull my Weber 32/36 DGAV and rebuild it. The carb was a brand new Korman-sourced unit, but it sat on the car for 20 years by the previous owner and I’m glad I went in and rebuilt it. The diaphragms were dry rotted and torn, and the jets were WAY off from what C.D. recommends. The problem is the car ran ok when I pulled the carb, but now it won’t run at all. I’m out of ideas here, so I thought I’d reach out for advice. The car runs for a few seconds off ether or if I spill a little gas down the throat of the carb, so I know we’re operational and it’s a “no gas” situation. Oh, I also replaced the fuel pump with a brand new BMW (Pierberg) unit I bought from Blunt (thanks for the fast shipping!), so I can take that out of the equation. I’m pretty confident I rebuilt the carb correctly and carefully and to the C.D. prescription to the T, but the only part I’m iffy on is the float settings. There is gas in the float bowl when I pull the top off, but I’m not sure if it’s filled enough. The fuel filter is barely filled with gas when you look at it, and when I pull the line off it sprays with back pressure like something’s not letting it flow in. Is there a return line that’s blocked? It feels like there’s “back pressure” in the system and the gas won’t flow. Did I set the floats incorrectly? Any advice or ideas would be appreciated. Oh, I attached a photo of where I set the floats. Is that correct?

After loosing my clutch and having to drive home for 10 miles in second gear, I decided it was a good idea to replace my clutch master and slave. The slave came out just fine, but the master proved to be more difficult than expected. Already not a fun job, mine was exacerbated by having both bolts severely corroded and stripped by the previous owner. The metal on the bolts is really soft, so I think they used just mild steel bolts and nuts to attach. I ended up having to cut the bottom one off and will be cutting the top one off today if all goes well. With the bottom bolt in last weeks trash and the top one mangled beyond recognition... can anyone on here recall the specs on the bolts so I can replace them with the proper, hardened and correctly threaded ones? Thanks for all your help!

So I've been battling drivability issues all year with my 1972 2002 that's pretty stock save for exhaust and a Weber 32/36 DGAV. I've done my best to set the timing, but since it's running so rough, it's difficult to be accurate. The carb on my car is brand new and has less than a thousand miles on it, except for the fact that it sat for 25 years unused (this project was a barn find) So I'm thinking a rebuild is in order. Now, I've done my searching on the forum and everyone points me to this link (followed by comments about how great and helpful it was): http://www.mk3supra.org/topic/561-guide-rebuilding-a-weber-3236-dgav-carb/ Except the link is now dead. Did anyone on the forum here archive it or put in a sticky I haven't found yet? Are there other tutorials specific to our car? I'm a little daunted by the throttle linkage which looks pretty complicated. Can I just pull the top of the carb off and rebuild it from there? It looks like I can get to most parts / jets / pumps / gaskets from there pretty easily. Thanks!