Oldtimerfahrer

Well, if there is insufficient fuel in the bowls at startup, the plugs won't do a thing. If you are experiencing "more" evaporation faster, have you changed fuel or perishing connections? I remember it took forever to fill the bowls with the mechanical pump...unless you pull the plugs to speed up the starter. I'm not sure who to believe on evaporation of E5 and E10 fuels, haven't really read into it. 

The phh Solex's were not the first choice of in period mods, but drive well and look right if originality is the goal. I shelved mine and went with DCOE's, but kept the stock air can setup...I find pancake and other  filters change the look more than solex vs weber. If you do want to dial your carbs in for the compression, camshaft, etc. the weber jetting options are bountiful, not to speak of choke sizes and trumpets to expand or reduce the cross section of the carbs or length of the intake tract. Not many restore the solex's, not sure what is available on jetting and chokes but I am sure some members here would know.

Andrew

3 hours ago, uai said:

It really seems as if there's a big difference if you're west or east of the atlantic.
I know of 4 places a front wheel rubs 
Front lip 
Fender lip
Wheel well at the a pillar
Inside wheel well when on full lock
So in general all cars used for racing with 7" or 8" wide wheels have to bend if not cut back the front lip and move their wheel well in front of the a pillars a bit back.
I don't understand why this isn't necessary in the US? 
Not being that lowered - don't think so
Not driven that hard - might be - but don't think so
If we west of the atlantic comply with TÜV and BMW rules we have to use differents offsets as the trackwidth may not be changed very much. But that doesn't explain why you don't have rubbing on the inner wheel wells on full lock with the high offsets you're running.




 

Have to agree, I've never had any luck with E21 offset rims, I couldnt be bothered to creep over curbs or tram rails at 1,5mph...The math may provide a different answer, but I took the school of hard knocks twice on 13's and 15's...not going to try a third time. I only have e30 rims on my shelf now.

Andrew

Ok, my stock was "semi-old OEM" stock. I had the metal cup and will probably then search for a direct replacement, hopefully newer stock from oem supplier.

A.

The picture in the w&n website of the last mount is not confidence inspiring. It looks wider here. Looks like it would limit rocking, but not fore and aft motion.

A.

W&N don't seem to have the round mount any more. The funky square one with a movement limiter is available. I assume they are directly interchangeable, but are there any detractors for this newer design?

Andrew

On 10/15/2023 at 11:51 PM, Mike Self said:

Is your driver's side mount (the one you replaced) the OEM style round one inside a metal cup, or the rectangular replacement?  From your description it sounds like the latter...

 

And...is the passenger side mounting bracket the early style--a single piece of metal bent to hold the rubber mount, or the later style that's welded up from several pieces.  If the former, they will eventually stress crack and allow the motor to sag to the passenger side, thus putting extra stress on the driver's side rubber mount.  

 

mike

I have the round style on the drivers' side, but I can see between the cap and the mount that the mount is parting. I don't remember what the plate/bracket looks like on the passenger side, but I will check it for cracks as I will probably replace both mounts again...It would be easier to do without the skid plate under the engine, but its so hard to get it and the bumper mounts back in the frame rails in the right position.

Thanks!

Andrew

I discovered a few months ago when replacing the pilot bearing that my engine was not sitting correctly in the motor mounts...The block on the driver's side was sitting high in the mount, so that the screw was barely holding it in the groove of the subframe. So, engine sitting too high, which I had observed before but had not removed the air filter can (ti) to see the mount. So, explained why the engine sat high. I did not obesrve any cracks on the carrier, looks like someone has beefed it up in the past.

So since the mount was crooked from sitting high, I decided to replace the mounts. I had two NOS mounts on the shelf for both sides, were probably 4 years old, never used. I replaced both sides and drove maybe 200 miles or so and then... I noticed that the mount of the driver's side has split (sheared) from the top about 2/3 of the way through the mount. Like the engine was rocking to the passenger side and tearing the mount. Is there any way to install this "incorrectly" if its sitting true in the mount and the limiter on the passenger side is set correctly? Gearbox mounts are good, no issue there.

I was unsure whether the problem is NOS item (dried out), material failure (bad batch) or my bad (incorrect install).

Since its winter in the far north and I am doing a heater box rebuild, I can take my time in fixing this, but any input would be appreciated.

Andrew

What is the classified section for?

I spent a few hours on one of my e30's lady year swapping out wafers, I ended up short on one number and I filed it down to match another wafer...the 02's have similar looking wafers, but it's been so long since I had one apart and I didn't have an e30 at the time. Now I have a pile of e30 wafers lying around, I guess I will just try it out....

Thanks,

Andrew

Are the wafers shared among bmw locks, or just 2002 / NK?

I have no scrap handles...and would like to get my driver's door to lock.

Andrew

German ebay is nearly devoid of privateers, their ir the ebay classifieds and generally expect pick up...I built my 02 by selling turbo parts and buying up ti parts all on ebay, which worked out great...

Andrew

I found it ok, had Sachs sport shocks up front and koni adjustable on the rear but with rubber bushings all around. I found it fine, though they are HD, they are not markedly stiffer...I still managed to bottom out going off a trampoline on a rally stage. 

Andrew

8 hours ago, M3M3M3 said:

since this is a 2002 fourm, sounds like op's question is... will e30 rear dampers fit on a 2002.

Good point. Didn't consider missing the target completely, my bad...Didn't ever consider putting E30 front struts into the 2002 tubes either. I guess it's an expensive experiment, if the fronts fit and work there is a chance that the rears would too and the result wouldn't be worse than the current mixed bag. Fitting adjustable rears would be even more expensive but less risky...

As a few have said, you can't leave your patina in a harsh climate...it's amazing how slowly rust progresses in a dry climate, but also vice versa. If you don't want to paint, you could look at something that would provoke a reaction with the paint / rust and then clearcote on the cheap to preserve the effect for a few years...

I went for the delete because it leaves a little more space. I had routed something along there and the blanking plates remove the cable holder, which sticks out the most...

Andrew

I ran the HD springs for a few years, naively thinking they would handle better (they don't)...They are not extremely harsh , I had adjustable shocks so it was ok. Perhaps ok with gas, but not ok with cheap oil shocks. If you want to get extra load, ok, but as Toby said front and rear. You won't bottom out (as often).

Andrew

Agree with Mike, I have two sets on two E30, the one with the eibach pro kit has b6's, the other has b8's. The b6s are daily driver comfortable for me, the b8's seem a bit harsh but the whole setup is different so difficult to compare.

Andrew

32 minutes ago, JohnP_02 said:

As far a the groupin

I didn't mean to group the entries in the database by vehicle, I only meant to group the attributes pertaining to vehicle visually together. So if you look at a particular wheel, where it was oem for a vehicle model, years when it was an option for that vehicle...

Andrew

Hi,

I would probably group the information relating to models, model years and whether it was on the BMW pricelist, so the originality lovers get the years and application information in one block or series of lines....

Andrew 

23 minutes ago, Conserv said:

But what about the 2002ti, introduced in late 1968, just as they wound down production of the 1600ti?

Well, my late ti has the smooth one. A non-euro spec version of the 1600ti/2002ti existed or did not exist? The only catalog picture I've seen where the sport 3 spoke is depicted also appears to show a smooth button as part but that is certainly no indicator...

I've only seen two other ti's in Germany and I dont remember what they had (aftermarket I think). Here I've seen a few with the other button, so no clue...

Andrew

I thought there were cool cars and ones with accessories for swimmers / surfers who wanted a mobile diving board. On Long Island where I grew up, the waves were not big enough for these differences to be material...at that time they were all cool.

11 hours ago, TobyB said:

I wonder if I could get a T18 3 speed in there?

 

Maybe mounted upside down, or on its side, so the box stuck into

the cabin for more of that 'authentic straight- cut gear whine'

 

t

 

Perhaps you can get some visual clues from the mad max movies, that post Armageddon minimalist look might work with that box...

1 hour ago, conkitchen said:

disclaimer: a CR 235 is not a 245 & used is not rebuilt.   

Incidentally, gmt is offering the 245 and not the 235....

The landed cost in the US would be even higher, since customs duties are due...so the MM is an ok deal...but I still find the 5k OD shelf kit a bit pricey...

Well, a CR box rebuilt by GMT is a known commodity, the landed cost in the US might make you think that $5k is a good deal for a purportedly good OD box, which either was well rebuilt or original (granting the benefit of the doubt). My OD box is perfect, the synchros don't crash and I can lock the rear when quickly downshifting going into a corner with no complaints from the gearbox. So mine can be tested and then is it worth $6k? I have trouble with a shelf stock $5k conversion. Maybe I'm just living in the past, having bought my box for the equivalent of $600. I picked up two e30 m10 gearboxes with motors for $100 last year, I think the scrap value will exceed what I paid, but I'm not keen on a GPS speedo....no officer, you see, I was in this valley and my speedo went wonky....

😁

Andrew