Acid House

Yeah I put the manifold and water choke lines in and bolted everything together, looks like I need the linkage from a 2 barrel solex since mine was originally a single barrel.

3 hours ago, Stevenc22 said:

Take a picture. Can you not loosed the bracket on the weber and adjust its orientation?

Ill get some pictures today. The way the bracket connects to the Weber can only go towards driver or 180 degrees to passenger. The rod is perpendicular pointing straight up.

Ive got it roughly connected but I can’t get it to run except on starting fluid or fuel dumped into the barrel. Despite this I can see the carb functioning properly as it dumps fuel down when I press the throttle, yet won’t run on its own yet for some reason. It’s been years since I had a weber so I have to relearn the thing.

It’s a 1bl solex so the rod bends straight up but I need it at 90 degrees towards the driver side. I adjusted it a little with the linkages to the pedal and I got it in there but I don’t think it’s perfect yet.

Hey there I’m pretty much finished with my solex to Weber 32/36 conversion and the last thing I need to do is tie in the throttle rod, but the design is slightly different 90 degrees off. 

I searched but couldn’t find a thread on this specific issue, how did some of you solve this incompatibility?  Am I going to have to fab something up or is there a simpler tried and true method using existing bits?

On 7/8/2018 at 5:16 PM, iinca said:

hello? someone has to have a wheel collectin' dust...

LOL i got one!  No cracks, but dusty, lemme see if I have the horn cap.

I'm looking for the hosetail which screws into the block where the water choke return is on later cars.  Anyone have a used one laying around?

That makes sense, mine is a 72 glad to see they were thinking ahead.

Cool maybe I can find something that will fit in there with that info and the part number, I didn’t realize they had diagrams for aftermarket setups on that beautiful website.

Thank you!

I re-keyed mine but ended up just putting a keyless entry from eBay that does the heavy lifting since the cylinders are so fragile. 

Mileage may vary!

Hey y’all I tried searching but couldn’t find the part.

Im switching from a stock solex to a Weber water choke but my block just has a bolt in the spot where I’d return the water after the choke/carb. Is this fitting just something I’d grab at the hardware/parts store (if so any idea the measurements?) or is it a specific piece?

Thanks in advance.

ITS THE GROUNDS

Edit: Man if it ain't the cable like was posted above I be surprised. Seems like for sure an electrical issue rather than a faulty starter.

Ha! Was just looking for something like this, timely bump.

So to make sure I'm reading this right, I'm going to set my car (carbed 1bbl early 72) at 2700 rpm and check for the OT with my timing light set to between 38-42 degrees advanced? 

I feel like I'm starting to get it, but not sure I'm there.

My closest to perfect result was when I did 35 degrees at 3000RPM as per another post.  I think maybe I just need to do 34-36 degrees again but at a slightly higher RPM, say 3400?

I'll try it tomorrow when I won't piss of the neighbors with a car running outside at 3500 rpm for minutes on end.

Other than safety features none of that stuff can't be added to an 02 or even an ancient RV with a nice radio and an iPad mount.

E28-E30 is right where you get the modern engine management with the old styling, nothing from the 90's moves me as much. My e28 535i has bluetooth etc, power everything. What else you need?

Mine did this the Ignition Switch was broken, same part these guys described above. Found one on the forum cheap, head to Parts Wanted they'll sort you out. Also clean your grounds.

1 hour ago, heinemann said:

I am having a ignition switch problem of a different sort. When I turn the key to the run position the car starts, and the starter keeps cranking like I am holding the key in the start position (#4) on the ignition switch. I made sure all of the wiring is correct. I even wired in a momentary switch (push button start) between 50 on the ignition switch and and 50 on the starter solenoid. I thought i may have mixed up the wires. Rewired everything just to be sure and it still cranks in the run position. Has anybody else had this problem? Is there any adjustment like some of the older American cars, so that the tumbler triggers the switch contacts in the correct position? Understandably, I don't feel like spending $260 bucks on a  new switch.

Holyshit I timed my 72 at 1400rpm, it revs  and idles nice but loses umph at higher RPM above 4000. I'm going to retime it at 2800 when I find some shade and see if that gets it dialed in.

2581823 here, just a few thousand younger.

My BBS RA are like this, had to have the Ireland Studs pressed in because the old studs not long enough, I think its a VW size wheel.

Of course now I want to put on flares and spacers for the wide stance since I have the studs to do it...

On 3/29/2017 at 11:05 AM, deanres said:

Yes the ones I got are dimmable. Found on Amazon chose the white ones. 

Give your cluster a little whack with your palm, it looks like one of the bulbs isn't lighting up.

Mine did this initially until I adjusted them in the sockets. 

Edit: From the page- 

• Notice:All LED bulbs have to be plugged in a certain way,it has Positive and negative, so if they don't work at first, quickly take them out, turn them around 180 degree, and put them back in again.

They are bigger than the stock ones but they fit.

This game has a setting where it does the real weather and times, so it was all night racing on the 101 and Laguna Seca but I got a couple screenshots.

I always drive from cockpit view, my friends hate it. With a wheel and a VR headset it could be amazing though!

All the gauges are accurately animated including the temp gauge (cools on long straights) and the gas gauge (as shown with little gas for the short race and near full for the California Highway race). Crazy details.

They also have awesome paint liveries, all the classic ones.  I'll have to take some of the outside of the car.

So it seems like almost every racing game has a 2002 in it, typically a turbo. I don't know if any of you are on Steam but I've been playing Project Cars and I think it has the best likeness I've tried.  They really nailed the engine sound, it's creepily similar to mine (minus the turbo sounds obviously).  I think this game even has a VR mode with a powerful enough PC.

Anybody have another game with a favorite 2002?  I had one in Forza Horizon but the sound and hence the likeness wasn't nearly as on point as Project Cars which is a full sim. There's a new Forza out which I haven't tried, would be interesting to compare likenesses.

Bruh you dont even know what severe is.  My first 02 was a flintstone mobile!

1 minute ago, Vicleonardo1 said:

 

The Frost King Duct tape is a good find for price point!

However, it may be a better product for a second layer (sound decoupler). On top of a sound deadening mat. 

But hey, I am an expert, because I just got it off the internet.....

This is probably true.  I am however not a fancy guy, I'm mainly trying to keep a little heat and engine noise out and give my doors that happy clunk instead of the questionable clank they currently have.

I like engine and exhaust noise better when it's coming through the open windows not the firewall and doors! 

I'm planning to do the inside of my doors with a couple layers of the Frost King "duct tape", which is just like Peel N' Seal except it uses foam adhesive instead of asphalt. If it turns out well I'll do the firewall and floors, will report back in a few weeks. Its like $16 for 15 square feet of the stuff.

Edit: $18.77 http://www.homedepot.com/p/E-O-12-in-x-15-ft-Self-Stick-Foam-Foil-Duct-Insulation-FV516/100028603

On 3/14/2017 at 3:13 PM, beammmer said:

As questioned before, are the LEDs dimmable in our cars?

 

Don

They sorta dim, but its not smooth like the regular bulbs. On my 72 its like full>half>dim>off.  I'm sure something could be wired in to do it more properly.

These are the ones I used https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H1ES6S6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1