pdx2002

not sure why my comments didn't come through, my bad.

Wanted to share what i got back from the machine shop.  Valve cover and oil pan will be sent out to powder coat.  Had them install Schrick 292, and complimenting with IE shorty header and IE exhaust.  Amazing how clean they got the engine!

Anyhow, thought I'd share. 

Happy 4th to everyone.

BTW, saw this car out on a walk, thought it deserved a couple pics.

Andrew

do you have a rear defrost switch?

Want to thank both of you for your responses. I did some searching and realized I must have disconnected that wire when I pulled the battery recently. 

I reconnected the leads and my engine idle came down. Perfect! 

This is forum is so great. 

Thank you, Andrew 

Does that impact the choke? Even when the engine is warm, the idle doesn’t go down. 

Having issues with my choke on my carburetor. Anyone know if this blue wire should connected on the open end?

Thanks for all of your help, much appreciated. 

Andrew

I’ve attached pics of master and slave cylinders. I don’t really see anything resembling a pressure switch. I can see how a loss of pressure would set of the brake warning light, and I assume that loss of pressure equates to a failing master cylinder, and a resulting spongy brake pedal?

Yeah, still have the canister, thank you.  

Can't find a pressure switch.  Are you suggesting this is mounted to the inside of the fender, either by the relays, or further back?

It's a 76.  I assumed that light comes on when the emergency brake is engaged, or the fluid level gets too low.  Will the brake pressure switch also activate the light?  What can I do to troubleshoot that?

I replaced my clutch master cylinder.  Followed that procedure by bleeding the line at the clutch slave.  Drove the car for a couple of days, checking regularly for fluid reservoir level.   The level hasn't changed in 4-5 days, and I've got a great clutch pedal.

Today I got a sudden soft pedal during first drive of the day.  As that happened, my emergency brake light on the dash illuminated.  When I got home I checked the fluid level, still topped off.  Is this a coincidence, or can this problem be related to the clutch slave replacement?  I'm guessing It's coincidental and I'll need to replace the brake master.  Any suggestions?

Thank you, Andrew 

I have a number of taillight parts left over from collecting over the years. I'd like to pass them on to those who need them, so make me an offer on anything. The frames are all in perfect condition, the lenses have cracks, but are functional, and the rubber seals are in great shape. The fixtures are in good shape, there are some with burn marks from bulbs. 

It isn't threaded, but the hole I've drilled is snug enough that it doesn't move around or fall off. It almost threads itself when you first put in on.

thanks for your feedback, I will turn some of these and contact those of you who have expressed interest. You will have to source your own roundel, but it will be prepped and ready for you to attach. 

I wanted to create a shift knob that would compliment a Nardi steering wheel. I turned a piece of mahogany on my lathe at the shop. I modeled it after the original shift knob in my 76. Then I pulled the roundel from my steering wheel, routed the top of the knob, and inserted the roundel. What do you think? I could probably make one or two of these if there is any interest. 

I haven't confirmed whether the fan is seated. are there indexes on the prop shaft that tells me it's seated?

Here is a pic of the lower motor mount. (engine rebuild next, forgive the oil build up)

Hi Hans, yes this is constant from cold start to warmed engine. It seems to be more prominent as I throttle up while warming the car.

Attached are pictures of the fan. The bottom picture shows that blade at the 5:30 position.

Okay, that makes sense. The bonnet has paint peeling away on the underside. It reveals a red paint, so I know it's not original. Maybe there was front end damage at some point. I'll check the diff and see if there is any adjustment. Are you suggesting I put the car on jack stands to move everything? I would assume you need the wheels off the ground to do this.

76' Siennabraun, 5/76 manufacture date. 

Yes, thank you very much for the photo. I'll source that from my Haynes manual. All suspension components were removed from the car when we did refresh, so the entire assembly could be slightly forward, however I would think that would have shown up as an issue when we reattached the driveshaft. I will attempt to adjust limiter bracket in the passenger side mount this evening and report results. I really appreciate the help guys! Andrew 

motor mounts are brand new.  I swapped them out 500 miles ago when I did a suspension refresh.  Come to think of it, we had this problem when we did the suspension, and it didn't exist before that.  So, I see what you mean about the motor mounts.  How could putting new motor mounts in create this problem?  I assume there are adjustments at the mounts.  Sorry for confusing feedback, the fella who helped me with the suspension has been working on these cars for years, and I didn't see how he adjusted the motor at that time.  I'll do some research on the limiter bracket, as that is new to  me.  Thanks very much for your kind suggestions, I'm trying to learn this stuff, and will pass the knowledge onto my kids. 

I put my car up on jack stands to swap out an old drive line. When I brought it down I noticed the fan blade is now hitting the bottom of the radiator when the motor runs. I checked the transmission mount and noticed it was way past its prime, so I replaced that. Now the sound is even worse! I figured by raising the back end of the transmission, it may move the bottom of the fan blade away from the radiator, clearly it hasnt. I can see the spot where the blade hits, so I know it's at the bottom. Does anyone have any experience with this problem? Thank you, Andrew.

You may want to check to see if your fan is touching its' shroud. I've had that problem and it sounds like a clicking or ticking.

Try calling Boyd Motor Werks in Portland.  They know their 02's quite well and will get you a thorough assessment. 

If you don't install the front screws when reinstalling the dash, you will be able to pull the dash out at a later date without having to pull the windshield.