76ohtwo

hi! 

i’m interested in some of the spares … specifically the shaft that comes out of the trans and connects to the shifter/linkage.

let me know if there’s a better way to get in touch! thanks!

these look awesome. come time for round two, might very well be interested in a set. excellent work man

Hi Dave - 

I'm in need of a new brake line for my 02 - the one that goes the length of the body of the car on the drivers side (visible under the driver's door) as it has corroded and now is leaking and I have no brake pressure.

Would it be possible to order this line pre-bent?

I see the kit on the site and I think it might be worth replacing all of them, but it doesn't look like it includes that one... I can send you an email if you'd like to discuss that way too.

Thanks!

44 minutes ago, TobyB said:

 

fixed that for ya...

 

t

 

 Right. Air. Not fuel. ?

2 hours ago, Bibm5 said:

Sweet! I am buying it off Craigslist but he claims that this kit was specifically designed for the M10 and should perform well right out of the box. Obviously a seller is going to say anything so I just wanted to confirm here first!

Thanks!

 

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

 

 

 

Check the jets and see if they’re close to the setups on this thread to make sure it’s at least been tinkered with for M10 or a 4 cyl. There are some guys running stock M10s with the 38/38 but it’s very hard to get a smooth idle because it’s pushing a lot of air for a stock motor. My dads car has one on a stock bottom end w a cam and it has a really unsteady and high idle. My car has a fully built motor and I got it to idle well. Some friends of mine have had success getting it to idle well but you have to really richen up the mix. 

No two engines are the same, so you should expect to do some adjustments. Luckily, they’re not difficult to make if you have a screwdriver around. 

If you want a 32/36 Weber (the most common upgrade for a stock 02), I’ve got one that I’d sell to you for $100 or something. Will go on the stock manifold and should be easier on the stock motor. Could use some cleaning but it delivered fuel to my engine for 10000+ miles under my ownership and many more before I had the car. 

Did a little rejetting this morning, then took the car for a drive.

Mains: 140 150

Airs: 180 190

Idles: 55

Emulsion: F66

Needle: 250

Car does much better in the top end (above 4000 RPM) than with the 140s and 180s. Used to definitely feel like it was running out of breath up there and now it pulls all the way through the range. Very happy with the results.

Hi everyone!

Hate to revive this thread (again) but oh well. Going to do some tuning on the 02 this week and was wondering if anyone had any tips for swapping jets out. Should I take the carb off the car and swap them out that way, or is it easier (as it seems in my head) to change them while the carb is on the car?

Thanks!

How cheap could the a Volvo based front BBK be for an FAQ member? ST 22mm/19mm swaybars? Thanks!

16 hours ago, jdamon said:

That spacer looks to be adding a little bit of height to that spring, like a shim? But it may help keep it from coming dislodged on the lift.

I am curious as to why there are so many pics of the red car? The orange one is the one for sale correct? Unless it's the same car (with a whole much of changes and new paint)? Definitely a sweet whip either way, I am interested...

yeah - i think so too - i'd like to know where to get one as a temporary fix for my cut rear springs. 

Hi - 

What is that white piece holding your rear spring in place while the car is up? I have issues with my springs coming off (very rarely, however still an issue) when lowering the car back to the ground from a lift or jacks, and that looks like it could be the solution to the problem.

Car looks awesome by the way. GLWS

$575+ship 

I still have these if anyone is interested! Need to go!

My engine was just put in the car and seemed to be running well when the car wasn't moving when the timing was being set, but according to the shop they took it out and it was bogging and felt like it had no power. (Fresh rebuilt engine, shouldn't have no power).

My set up is a 90mm 10.5:1 compression pistons, 292 cam, E21 head, shorty header.

The carb is a 38/38 with the following specs:

Mains: 140

Airs: 180

Idles: 55

Emulsion: F66

Needle: 250

Any ideas as to what might be happening? Could it have to do with the carb setup? I thought it would run close to well with that setup and not need a ton of adjustment. 

I'm hoping that the problem will solve itself with some fresh gas - the gas in the tank is kinda old.

Thanks

UPDATE: it was a bad ignitor - don't forget to run resistors everyone!

Bump.

C'mon, somebody take these off my hands - it's a great deal!

Still got 'em!

15 minutes ago, theNomad said:

I ordered from Carbs Unlimited just fine.

 

http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/weberparts2.asp

perfect, just got two f66 emulsion tubes and a 250 needle off there. thanks!

Alright, was able to check everything today.

Mains: 140

Airs: 180

Idles: 55

Emulsion: F50

Needle: 200

Guess I am going to order at least a 250 needle and probably F66 emulsion tubes. Where does everyone order this type of thing? Thanks. 

4 minutes ago, burndog said:

BUMP, please message me back if they are still available.

messaged

On 6/19/2016 at 0:58 AM, bento said:

Emulsion tubes are under the air correctors. I think I fished mine out with a pick after removing the air correctors.

 

The needle valve just unscrews from the seat in the carb cover.  I don't recall whether they're labeled. You didn't mention any details on your motor. Is it stock? If so, the 200 (stock) needle valve is fine. If not, you'll know when you need it. It has no effect on how your engine runs unless you aren't getting enough fuel in the float bowl at high rpm/high load.

 

Edit:Fixed description of needle valve location. 

My engine has 10.5:1 compression and a 292 cam, which is why I want to make sure I have the 250. I can't figure out how to take it off. Just unscrew by hand? 

Hi

I have a set of 135mm Ireland Engineering forged H-beam rods that I have decided I'm not going to use in my engine. They're sold out right now, so if you want a set, today is your lucky day!

I kind of just want to get my money back, so I'm going to sell them at a slightly discounted price from retail. I'd like $595 $575 or best offer for the set.

I only took one out of the wrapping for photos, they are all sealed up and have (obviously) never been used.

Thanks,

Matt

I've just checked my carb and it looks like my specs are as follows:

Mains: 140

Air Correctors: 180

Idle: 55

I couldn't figure out how to remove the emulsion tubes, jet needle, or pump jet so I did not check those. It seems the carb is set up to run slightly richer than previously expected.

I would really like to be able to check if the needle is a 250, any tips on this would be appreciated. 

I didn't leave it stock, Interestingly they have 135 as the mains and 185 as the air correction. Each moves towards lean.

Mine, on stock internals is currently:

 

Yeah, when it's all done I'm going to test her on the dyno to see where I'm at in terms of AFR and where to go from there. But I figure that's a good baseline, I think IE knows what they're doing.

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On 5/11/2016 at 11:14 AM, theNomad said:

If that's the case, you can call IE and talk with them. I believe they may sell you a custom rejet kit based on your specs (since they are familiar with that common setup) but they would definitely know what the current jetting is.

 

Either way, an AF gauge is a good investment. I hope to get one soon.

 

Update

My jetting specs, from IE, for the 10.5:1 CR, 292 cam 2.0L M10 are as follows:

Mains: 135

Air: 185

Idle: 55

Everything else as included with the carburetor. Does everyone else leave everything as it comes except for the Mains, air, and idle jets? Thoughts?

S O L D

Thank you everyone for your interest.