Buckeye

You will need Thermocure run for entire engine cooling system when engine is up and running.

Two of 4 tires showed up today.

I have said this before and did work for me when I overhauled entire braking system. Start bleeding in reverse sequence and then go back do a bleeding per usual sequence for last time. This way most air will be purged through front drive side which is closest to master cylinder. 

year 76 BMW used E21 cylinder head. You suppose to have flat top piston in your block if is original and it is 1976 car.

e10_1975_us-1.pdf

Reading Conserv post I stand corrected. CA version uses E12 head

Back in the day

Yes, that part was part of original driveshaft nose assembly and it is made of close cell foam. When I refreshed my driveshaft a few years ago that part was available and utilized it in the assembly.

You can clean nose piece with brake cleaner and air dry it then fill it with long life grease. 

Can you test that sensor if it is good or not?

willing to sell it?

1 hour ago, JohnS said:

Not Tropical

That is Siberian version. Never introduced to NA

On 3/28/2024 at 1:52 AM, John76 said:

With the bracket removed, you might need two shorter bolts for the front 2.

^ +1. Of course I went opposite way buy installing the bracket back on and had to buy new longer bolts.

Did you see this

18 hours ago, Mike Self said:

Is your Camry a 4 or a V6?  We have an 07 V6 RAV4 with 144k miles and it burns no oil between changes (done with conventional oil at about 5k miles).  I have heard that Toyota engines don't tolerate dirty oil very well and will clog up if the oil isn't changed frequently, but that may go back to the 90s or early 00s. 

 

mike

It is 4 cylinder engine. I change oil on all our cars at 5K intervals regardless using conventional or synthetic oil. At time I asked supervisor take me to the shop and show me engine apart. mechanic  commented never seen engine so clean. 

6 hours ago, bmw_e30 said:

 

toyota takes better care of its customers than any other major automaker i have ever seen

 

they really really care about their reputation for quality/reliability/durability

I experienced that 1st hand. My 2007 Camry with 100K start using 1 qt oil every 1K miles. Took it to Toyota dealer and they said is normal. A few months later received a letter from Toyota saying that customers have reported similar issue as mine. For that reason they started a CCP in which filled the engine to proper level sealed it and said drive it 1100 miles and brining back. It was low 1.4 qts. They opened the engine replaced pistons and put it back together. The bill was $5,500 but cost me $160 because I told them to change the water pump while in there. Apparently oil return holes in the pistons were undersize and would not let oil return to sump quick enough and start burning. BMW does good too but sometimes they need arm twisting. I know on N63 engines they made CCP and took care of customers well. 

Joined Koito headlamp club for BMW 2002 regardless it has round or square taillights. It looks lot better to me than Hella H4 which had installed several years ago.

3 hours ago, Son of Marty said:

There's a thread in the archives about changing the charcoal in the canister.

On 3/10/2024 at 7:27 PM, Polymerjohn said:

I am trying to install my hood latches and release handle to get things locked down for the road portion of this adventure and the pics below is what I have.  

Did you have the hood removed at some point time and installed back now? I ask because hood seems to be in bind. Do you have pictures of hinges to the hood and to front brackets attached?

Are you sure "ramps" are in right positions? 

Here is chapter for pedal box from repair manual. Not difficult job but you will spend some times on your back for taking box off and install.

FOOT_PEDALS.PDF

@Sam_in_VA, I experienced same situation with mine back in 2014 and fellow member offered me a new one. Here is picture of communication and contact info.

If you decided to go with head bolts towards front then add 10% to torque specs value. Me, I will do it they service manual is written.

13 hours ago, zambo said:

When you say “move the hood around …” the central lock bar hook has pulled the hood closed at this point? 
 

And still assume the height adjustments are done after this step with the angle bracket and stop pad. 

No. You push down on the hood near windshield on driver and passenger side to see gaps are relatively same on both sides. 

Yes, once you okay with gaps then hood bolts are fully secured thru opening upfront and then you work on last piece of adjustment which is hood arms to fender brackets.

4 hours ago, conkitchen said:

Drew this on the last package of parts I sold.   Rendered totally useless 🤣

I LIKE!. Send me something as a gift with your art work. Seriously I appreciate your art work work. Regards

I had to google Knarly definition because I never heard before. And I only been here since 1976. lol. You learn something everyday. You must use hardware Son of Marty showed in his post. So there is Pdf document floating on the site that tells you how to adjust you hood  and is all good reference, but I was not happy with end results so this what I did and worked well for me.

Making sure that hood brackets are attached to fender attachment points are secured but not fully tighten 

Fasten bolts to to the hood loosely thru the bracket (hood open)

Fasten bolts to the brackets upfront making sure that hole on each brackets are alined. for this use dowels of drill bits. 

With the hood down, move the hood around so you get uniform gaps al the way around. You should be able to move the hood side to side as well as front to back

Now, tighten bolts to the hood from the front. Not easy but doable.

Raise the hood and adjust arms to fender brackets accordingly.

Good Luck & Regards

On 2/9/2024 at 10:23 PM, '76mintgrün'02 said:

(I installed two horns from an e21 at the junk yard)

Me too.

My younger son lives in Fort Lauderdale, Florida. He spotted this nice car in Galleria Mall area send me a pictures. Anyone we know here?

Put fat bolt thru the bushing with a nut and attache it to your electric drill (that is your lathe now) then use emery cloth/ sand paper and turn it down just a bit.