chadley

The way that you park the car may have something to do with the quality of the bodywork!  

that roundie with the Utah plates?

please keep me in mind...

I view the classifieds daily (sometimes 2x).

I would love to see the date that the ad was posted, and, more importantly, the seller's location (at least the region).

Is there a way (since so many don't include these in their ads) to make it part of the ad posting process to fill out these two items?

The Who "Happy Jack"  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=52cQeFBU2Kw

and those songs by the Who with a Keith Moon style drummer...

Remove the air filter and watch as someone else tries to start the car while pumping the throttle; or, disconnect the fuel line before the carb, route it into a bottle or appropiate container, and try to start the car and see if fuel comes out (helpful if you have a helper).

All stock? not a Tii?  more info?

'Like' is not a strong enough statement...

When I grow up, I want to be Marshall!

Awesome.

My favorite part is where he grins and says "all it takes is money."

My second favorite part is where he says "these little cars did everything well" (paraphrasing a bit). Just look at all of the different builds going on throughout this site- from bagged street cars to race cars and everything in between...

WTB Speedo for 1976 '02.

+1

Really into it cubby

keep posting

very inspiring

Delicious!

I took apart the fan on our '76 for diagnosis, discovered that the spring loaded contact had broken on the negative side, carefully superglued the contact back together, tested it, put it all back together, re-installed it, and it ran beautifully for about 20 seconds...

Now I have to do it all over again.

Thanks for your efforts...

yeah... same deal- our '74 would run all day beautifully, but if you turned it off and tried to re-start it while it was warm.... a few seconds of motoring and then no go.

we had initially pursued fuel line and carb issues, but a simple pump swap did the trick.

I believe the rubber diaphragm was worn out and would stick when it got hot, but would run fine when cold fuel was running through the pump.

I'd bet a pint of stout on it-

c.d. is on to something with the diaphragm in the fuel pump. My son's '74 had this issue- after the car was fully warm, it would re-start but only run until the fuel from the pump to the carb was used up (usually about a block down the road) and wouldn't re-start until the engine cooled down (my son got into the habit of lifting the hood every time he parked; and in a pinch, he poured cold water on the fuel pump before re-starting).

I would like to re-build that fuel pump (anyone know where to find a good re-build kit?), but in the meantime we bought a new pump from Bavarian Auto for $85.95 and the car runs like a top now.

www.bavauto.com part # 13 31 1 265 192

1986, I think, across the street from a friend's house was a '76 mintgrun with BBS wheels, owned by a guy a few years older and just out of high school. One day he offered me a ride- said he had just got new tires, and wanted to heat up the rubber to seal them better to the rims. Most amazing ride I've ever had- drifting every corner along a windy lakeshore road- terrifying, exhilarating, sooo much fun.

Then, as a senior in high school in 1988, my girlfriend's dad bought her a '74 for $350 that had been in a collision, and together we re-built the front end (nose cone, hood, radiator, windshield, etc.), and she was pretty good at fixing things on it when it stopped in the middle of an intersection because the throttle linkage had become disconnected or whatever. She sold that car because she didn't like driving it in the winter, and I had looked for another '02 ever since.

Fast forward to now, going on twenty years of marriage, we have a '74 Malaga that is our 17 year old son's car (paid $500, didn't run at the time), and a '76 Verona (original paint, sunroof, a runner, paid $1,800 a couple of months ago) for our daughter turning 15 in a few days.

2002's will always be in my family.

Thanks for asking

So, I have done some research and site searching and can't find an answer to this issue:

It feels like the brakes are engaged when the car is in reverse and you depress the clutch, but if you are rolling in reverse and pop it into neutral, it rolls fine.

I recently adjusted the brakes (rears) per the Haynes manual, and they seem to be fine (eventually we'll need new pads).

Also of note, we have replaced the output shaft spline (completely shredded) and I thought the failure may have been related to the rear brakes...

This is my son's car (he is 17), so I'm not the usual driver of it... I get to drive my daughter's 76 02 until she gets her license in six months...[/img]

I need a speedometer...

I would buy the whole instrument cluster if that's preferable to you.