chadley

Yes, my nephew crashed it into an SUV in a parking lot.  So the nose and hood suffered some damage, also, the driver's fender and door had been damaged before we purchased the car.  

Engine has been sitting for a year now; should have sold the car last year, but was hoping that I could start a full rebuild.  Reality set in, so here we are...

http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=39726090&cat=656&lpid=&search=&ad_cid=2

Preview: $2,500.00, currently a roller.  Have exterior trim, grille, door cards (they're rough), but no center console.  

two bottles of wine and three boxes of ammo, for two people?  Is that enough?

I have broken a stud, and my local tire store had a replacement stud- you can use a punch to drive the broken stud out, and then you use the tools you have to seat the new stud in place (a fun little project, all in all).  Also, I have screwed up an alloy wheel when I didn't re-torque it, as Toby advised.  It's important to have the correct lug nuts for your wheel as well- steel wheel lugs aren't supposed to be used on alloy wheels (don't ask me how I know that please).

I have also seen cracked lug nuts- inspect them carefully, they might be older than you are...

I vote for those Rota wheels as seen on Jim's car.

nice S10!

Yeah, I would ask, what are your intentions for this car?  How much are they asking? and, Is that tractor for sale? because that tractor looks to be in great shape!

Well done!  I could see the grin on your face as you drove through the neighborhood.  By the way, you're a much better writer than a videographer, just sayin'

Needs a new fuel pump if you ask me.  If you start it cold and it runs fine, but then dies shortly after starting it when the engine is warm, that's a good indication.  $90.00 for a new one, simple install.

Next time it happens, try cooling off the fuel pump with ice in a towel- if it runs after that, you'll know for sure.

I know you mentioned not insulating first, but you can't size your system properly if you modify your building after you put in your climate system.  The biggest waste is oversizing your a/c and ending up with a system that short cycles.

Having a well insulated and properly ventilated attic is crucial to the performance of your system (and will save a ton of money on cooling expenses if it's done properly), and designing your HVAC equipment carefully is money well spent.  I like mini-split systems, but I also like swamp coolers, so there's that...

Your carpet issue may require two burritos to solve.

and maybe a little internet.

I love this.  Thanks for being the best hack mechanic who also writes amusing stuff that I am aware of.

sounds like a classic case of 'scope creep'...

and you can pull both engine and tranny out from the top, after doing a lot of finessing and repositioning of supports, etc...

my current engine pulling project is going to involve disconnecting the engine from the trans and pulling the engine out the top, but if I had the space I would drop the subframe and take everything out from underneath; but if I was doing that, then, scope creep.

Toby I would love to let you have the last word, and let this stance crap die down, but then inspiration like this comes along:

http://www.stanceworks.com/2014/10/bruce-carrs-bristol-gray-1969-bmw-2002/

...and I have to contribute to the stance thread and keep it alive for a little bit longer.  -sorry-

Thank you. I have a blue coil, but just removed the firewall components and was concerned. EGR valve tomorrow...

Can you please elaborate on the resistor wire? I'm not sure I follow you...

Paul's F-Bomb

http://paulwegweiser.blogspot.com/2012/06/i-want-rock-n-roll-buti-dont-want-to.html

I bought one in September 2013, my invoice says part #61-31-1-356-193.

plus shipping from where?

thanks

Coupla more thoughts:

 

 

• Next time you have a hot hard start condition, pull the output fuel line off the fuel pump (presuming you still have a mechanical pump) and have someone crank the engine while you catch the gas in a jar or can.  If the engine cranks for more than a few seconds with no fuel spurting from the pump, I'd suspect either an air leak in the upstream fuel line, or vapor lock. Check the fuel line routing between the firewall and pump; if it's touching the cyl head or manifold, re-route it so that it's not touching anything, and/or insulate it.  That will prevent fuel from boiling in the line when the car is sitting after being driven.  A mechanical pump won't pump vapor, only liquid.  

Check the above plus the previously mentioned ignition items and that should solve your problem.  Let us know whatcha find.

 

cheers

mike

Follow this advice but keep in mind that the fuel pump itself could be the culprit- the diaphragm inside can have issues until it cools off (that was my experience anyway).  $89 well spent dollars later no more hot start issues.

I have a strong interest in getting a Cayman S. Maybe if 2002 prices continue to climb, and the Cayman's used car prices get within range … ah, you never know.

Um… it's not an 'S', but the review is good-

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25gSLDx_2m0

I don't like to see the value of these cars escalate- but the market will do what it does.

We have a couple of rough 2002's- a '74 and a '76, that combined set me back $2,300.00- they are rust free but still need a lot of work, and that is the fun in it.

When people spend upwards of $20K on one, and expect the value to go up even more, are they going to drive them like they should be driven?  I hope so... 

Where are you located?

Please always list this in your ads (region at least).

Thanks

That would be a nice dairy driver...

if it could pass emissions

And then, a leisurely drive...

https://vimeo.com/26625639

you may have already seen it, but since we're having this animated conversation about BMW's...