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drola

Solex
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Posts posted by drola

  1. On 5/21/2021 at 3:11 PM, mac20021972 said:

    Hello , I'll take them , please provide me your email address for Paypal payments. Please note accordingly.

     

    Thanks,

    MacArthur Davis

    allcity04@msn.com

    message sent

  2. 10 hours ago, steve oneill said:

    This is odd. I joined the forum in Feb. when I purchased a 76 2002. Sherman was advertising some small parts I needed. But I had just been scammed on some chrome bumpers big time. Should have had my crap detector on high but didn't. Expensive lesson.

     

    So I contact a buddy with a tii who has been on the forum for decades and is plenty savvy.  He highly recommends Sherman, I buy the parts, all is good.

     

    So as I said, this is odd. I am not taking sides but wish that Sherman would surface and explain. 

     

    Steve

    I agree. It would be nice if he surfaced and at least tried to make things right. But he does not. And it's not that he doesn't come on this forum on a regular basis. You can see in his profile page that he visits just about every day. But instead he hides. And does not man up.

    This is my experience. Others have said differently. I can't speak for them. Only for me. He was so smug about his parts when I asked him about their condition. Insulted that I should even have the nerve to ask. And then he sends me a gearbox with a cracked bellhousing and a wasted second gear synchro. And then he hides .......... So easy to hide behind a keyboard..........

    Like I said before, I'd love to get past this. But every time I put 2nd gear I have Sherman's smug voice in my head telling me "I don't sell junk!"

  3. be careful with sherman martinez

    1) he'll make you pay with money order so you have ZERO protection

    2) hey may or may not send you a good part

    3) he will not stand behind what he sells

    4) you will have zero recourse

    5) he will hide behind his keyboard and never make things right
    i know this from first hand experience. be careful !!!

  4. be careful with sherman martinez

    1) he'll make you pay with money order so you have ZERO protection

    2) hey may or may not send you a good part

    3) he will not stand behind what he sells

    4) you will have zero recourse

    5) he will hide behind his keyboard and never make things right
    i know this from first hand experience. be careful !!!

  5. if only i could forget about this.

    but every time i grind second gear on this supposed mint gearbox (NOT!!) that Sherman Martinez sold me I am reminded of how short sighted and cowardly a long time member of this community can be.

    I guess he really needed those $600 and willing to ruin his reputation over them

  6. several updates....

    1) i put the 002 dizzy from my old engine and set it to 28 deg at 2000 rpm's and just left it at that. i get max advance of about 36 deg. the 008 dizzy was just not working right. I'll wait to see what Jeff at advanced distributors tells me about my original 008 when he gets to it (should be soon I hope).

    2) i changed the idle jets to 55F8, 60F8 and finally 65F8. seems to like the 65's

    3) set the rotary style fuel regulator to 3.5. cheapy pressure gauge is reading about 4-4.5 psi but I put no faith in that. I need to get a better gauge

    4) i ran into a thread about the resistor for the coil. When i was in this engine swap process I ordered the black 40k volt 3 ohm coil from pertronix. but it turns out the resistor block was still hooked up on my car. The coil and pertronix were only getting 11.2 volts instead of 12.6+. So the coil was getting all out of whack once it got hot and I ran the car past 3000 rpm's for any amount of time. so I bypassed the resistor and its relay and hooked up live wire directly to the coil. weird thing is that i had the blue coil on the car already which is also a 3 ohm coil and it always ran great before. maybe it was because i rarely ran it past 3500 rpm's mainly because it would just go flat from there on that stock motor with stock exhaust.

     

    so, increased fuel pressure, larger idle jet and also proper voltage to the coil. these are my changes. the car runs much better. still some fine tuning to do as i drive it but it definitely runs better.

    funny how before the car would die off after 3500 rpm's and now with this set up and the 304 cam it is just waking up at 3500 rpm's :)

    • Like 1
  7. My car is a 1973 so that would explain the lack of that wire. I do have he ceramic block by the coil. Is there a way to test it? Also i recently put a 3 ohm coil which is what i read i need. Do i still need the resistor block with the 3ohm coil?

    i have a wierd stumble that i'm trying to diagnose so figured i'd give this a shot

  8. Price: $225
    Location: Hollywood, FL


    Description:

    I have 2 distributors from a 2002tii 1972-1973 with the mechanical advance. both have part numbers 0231151008

    1) I put this one on my car and it works but the center shaft is missing the little washer under the clip so it pulls up without restriction. i believe this was making the advance too much. otherwise it spins smooth. the condenser is good as are the points

    2) I did not try this one. the center shaft does have the washer so it does not pull up. but it does bind a little on the lower end of the advance mechanism if you push down on it whereas the pther does not. it spins fine but not as free as the other one although i hear nor feel any grinding or anything unusual. also this one is missing one of the cap clips

    I'm sure they are both easily fixed or use them for parts. these particular distributors are getting hard to find

    $225 including shipping for both to continental us

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  9. On 7/11/2020 at 8:22 AM, wegweiser said:

    If your distributor is functioning properly, you're at 50 degrees around 3200-3500 and it just stays there up to redline... The advance maxes out around 3500 on our distributors... and if you're not taking it past 4800 rpm, you're missing out on all the fun of an M10 engine. :)

     

    Graph the advance curve at idle, 1200, 2000, 2500, and 3500 and see what it looks like. You may have wonky weights and springs (as mentioned earlier). 

     

    Popular opinion is that 50 deg is way too much and I should be maxing out around 32 deg. I got 53 deg at 3500 rpm's but now that I retarded the ignition a little bit I'm at about 50 deg all in

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