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Gromitspapa

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Posts posted by Gromitspapa

  1. The upside is you get the full size image right from the get-go. Sometimes a bigger ass is a good thing...

    22c.jpg

    If you quote this post, you'll see how the HTML is supposed to look. Also, there's an "Img" button you can click before and after the image URL to make linking the image easy.

  2. The addition signs mean: "put them together as one"

    that is a good one, been on this board for a number of years and this is the first time I've seen it, but it doesn' work for me...

    What firefire90 means is put together the the symbols without the "+" signs- combine everything else. If he typed the HTML without the + signs, you wouldn't be able to see it. Try this- quote someone's post with an image displayed and you'll see how it's done in the text of what you're quoting before you submit it.

  3. Here's an example. My thought is if this car truly has zero (visible) rust, it's not likely to start rusting unless it's driven in the rain. Does that sound right? I've seen this car not meet reserve at $14K and $16K. That price range seems reasonable for a 40K mile car with original paint and zero rust. I would go for something like that at a later date. Anybody know about this car?

    http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11030.m43.l1123/7?euid=a2ba478d34d64ff2b7c587b2f78a93cc&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com%2Febaymotors%2Fws%2FeBayISAPI.dll%3FViewItem%26item%3D170561263560%26ssPageName%3DADME%3AB%3AEF%3AMOTORS%3A1123

  4. What I'm trying to say is I think the smart way to get a super nice car is to buy it sorted at a discount to what it takes to get it there. I don't think there are many cars that can be properly restored that will be worth as much or more when they're done, certainly not in this price range. What I'm wondering is once there, do these things still rust or is there a way to keep them rust-free?

    I'd like to start with a $2-5K car, drive it and enjoy it. How crazy I go with fixing it up depends on if rust is going to play a role. If so, I'd keep it cheap and live with as little of it as possible. If not, I could "invest" more, knowing the value won't be undone by rust.

    My ultimate goal (and it probably wouldn't be the first car) would be (1) an '04 tii in outstanding/show quality. It would make sense to me for that to be as original as possible or easily returned to that state. Or (2) would be a '74 or '75 non-tii with in similar condition with some moderate engine mods (or a small six) and a 5-speed transmission.

    I'd like to have something more presentable than a beater, but I could start off with one and build up from there, assuming the rust issue could be avoided or controlled. Going that route would allow me to be creative, obviously. If I later bought a completely sorted car, it would need to be sorted in a way that I would prefer (i.e. color, mechanicals) or easily made so (i.e. wheels/tires, seats).

    I'm in the SF bay area, but could imagine traveling 500 miles or more for the right car.

  5. I live in CA and am thinking I'd like to get a square taillight '02 in the next few months. Can rust be avoided, or is it going to crash the party sooner or later every time?

    What I'd like to do (but can't afford for a long time): Buy some rig for $20-25K that's completely restored. Likely someone will have spent a bunch more than that getting it there. Seems like the smart way to go vs starting cheap and ending up with $30K in the car. My understanding is no restoration will be rust-proof unless the car isn't driven in the wet. Will just washing it get water in the wrong places?

    What I could do: Buy a car for $2-5K. Are there any zero-rust cars out there? If there was, it would probably have to be an original paint car to tell, right?

    I guess I'm trying to figure out if a high dollar car is going to get ruined down the line or not, or if I should just live with a bubble here and there on a cheapie.

  6. Seems like a very well priced daily driver to me at $6,600. Questions I'd have:

    - odometer says 15,000 in listing. Did you mean 150,000?

    - can you estimate the mileage for the head rebuild based on the records?

    - picture of the new rear seat?

    - no structural rust. What sort of rust does it have?

    - do you have the original front seats? The ones in the pic through the windshield don't look OEM, though.

    Maybe edit "sears" to read "seats." Good luck selling it!

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