heinemann

"Hey dude, GTFO of my thread. Go make your own if you're after a car." I saw his car come up in the thread and responded. You don't have to be rude about it. I'll mute this thread

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why don't you start with a rust free shell.
71 Granada with a clean title. All the body panels are there.

How much? I want a car I can build, not a lipstick on a pig (most eBay listing), or a nice car I can't build up.

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Ok, I should have clarified, while using tap talk.
Thanks

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I am having the same problem. I can't find my blog anywhere, not even in the blog archives, from dates I know I posted. When I look at my profile, none of my blog info or posts come up.

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Suspension: 5 lug conversion, polyurethane bushings in all suspension and chassis mounting points

 

Front - Ground Control Coilovers w/ Koni Yellow adjustable Dampers, Eibach Springs with torsion bearings, Ground Control camber plate adjusters, UUC swaybar 22mm

 

Rear - e30 rear subframe and trailing arms with positive lock camber and toe adjusters, Koni coilovers yellow adjustable dampers, Eibach Springs, Ireland Engineering swaybar

 

Tires: Toyo HP2 215/40r17

 

Rims: BBS Style 5 RC90 17x8

 

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The early ones have less weight. Differences are primarily in the bumpers, bumper shocks, door bracing for crash protection, and added gussets on the underside of the car between the rear shock towers. I'm not certain if the glass was thicker in later model cars. Many later models years have sunroofs which adds weight. The differences aside from the bumpers is negligible.

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Any other pics? Rear? Rockers? Trunk? Floor? Does the car have the drivetrain?

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Looks like it might be installed 180* the wrong direction. Shifter should lean slightly toward the driver when in neutral. Maybe it was the angle of the video.

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Did you take it out the garage just to get the pic or are you driving it in those conditions, you madman? 

Actually I drove is from Texas to PA and hit a blizzard in Ohio and PA last Super Sowl Sunday. I had it outside to wash it and spray Salt Terminator on the undercarriage. The car now lives in PA, but I don't drive it when the roads are salted.

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I used these:

18-8 Stainless Steel Metric Oval Head Phillips Machine Screw, M5 Size, 12MM Length, .8MM Pitch, Packs of 50


http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=90258A249


From MacMaster-Carr

Never was able to find oval head Alan drive screws, which is what I originally wanted to use. Also, regular Phillips machine screws will sit higher/proud if the chamfer in the factory turbo flares and it looks horrible. Black oxide screws will rust.

I also planned to paint mine , but after installing them I liked the look, so I kept the stainless.

On the body side, I used M5 stainless rivnuts/nutserts.

I only use metric hardware on BMMs, except for the seatbelt bolts, which for some reason BMW uses s.a.e. hardware. Mixing hardware just seems sloppy to me.


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Here's mine if you'd like to include it.
Kaleb

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Maybe a little late to the party, but first thing I thought was worn plug wires. Many times the core and/or insulation erodes over time and the spark can arc between plug wires. This will cause you to lose a cylinder and many times it is intermittent. If your car is a points style ignition, which may have been updated on your later model, the points go out often and cause ignition problems. Switching to an electronic ignition will solve that.

Glad to hear you tracked it down.



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The order that I build an 02 from a freshly painted shell.

I would start by installing all the body plumbing first. Fuel lines, hard brake lines, maybe even wiring. I woukd dynamat the car before assembly. It is much easier to work on an empty shell than with major components in place.

Better to do it with a buddy, but totally can be done solo. I am assuming you are using a lift.

I have done it both ways. No lift is possible and you'll need several jacks preferably with wide lifting pads.

If using jack stands - Car up high on jack stands. ballast it inside with some cinder blocks or heavy items on some furniture pads. The empty shell ways onky weighs a few hundred pounds and can easily shift. Best not to do this on a windy day.

**You will either install the engine first or the rear end first. Both will upset the weight ratio / balance of the empty shell and can tip the vehicle off the lift or jackstands. Be careful!


Assemble the rear end - bolt in diff, new subframe mounts, new or rebuild half shafts, new soft brake lines, new drum hardware, etc. Assuming if the subframe is out, everything is getting refreshed.

Assemble struts and front brakes with new or refurbished everything. They will be installed later.

Assemble front subframe suspension pieces - tie rods, control arms, all new bushings snugged, but not torqued. Sway bar in place but don't connect the end links to the control arms.

Place the front assembly on a low profile, rolling cart or something that can support the weight of the front subframe, engine and trans.

Use ann engine host to mate the trans to the engine. I am assuming you've refreshed all serviceable parts. Place the motor mounts on the engine block before attaching the front subframe to the engine. Torque motoe mounts to spec.

You can use a floor jack and trans jack at the same time and lift the assembly together into the bottom cavity of the car. You have to get the car auoer high in the air. I've done it. It sucks.

You can (I would recommend) lower the car onto the front end assembly.

Start all subframe bolts by hand with plenty of anti-sieze. If you cross-thread one using an impact got will kick yourself.
Lower the car shell slowly and the subframe alignment pins will slide in. Gentle persuasion with a rubber mallet helps. Torque all subframe mounting bolts to spec.

Now install the rear assembly either by jacking / lifting it into the car. You will have to lift and fit the rear subframe mounts over the large body bolts just fore of the rear wheel wells. Try to start one side first (just a tiny bit), catching some threads into the subframe mount holes. Jack the rear subframe assembly up slowly, using a rubber mallet to tap the subframe mounts up by switching between jacking up the diff and tapping either side subframe mount up.

Once able to catch bolt threads on both mounts you are home free. Go slowly until the subframe bottoms out in the car. Mount the differential mount to the diff and body. Now, Doing only one side at a time, remove one subframe to body mount bolt. Slid on the body to subframe support rod and assemble completely. Then do the other side. you will snug up the trailing arm bolts once the car is at ride height on the ground.



I would hold off on attaching the struts, steeting box and drag link To the subframe until after the engine is installed.

You can install the engine and subframe with the struts attached but it's easier to do it after and you won't scratch up the inner fender wells. Plus they are heavy and make the engine and trans install harder if you are installing from the bottom of the car.

You can install the engine and trans from the top but it's a major pain to do without wrecking the front bulkhead / radiator support and wrecking the firewall.

After the engine, trans and rear end are installed, install the strut assembly. You can install the brakes after or before strut install. Obviously, more stuff means more weight.
Attach the bottom of the strut to the control arm first. Push the loose assembly down fitting the top of the strut into the inner fender without scratching it. Align the three stut mount bolts into the fender, start the top nuts by hand and torque to spec. Then do the other strut.

Now it's just adding bits and its very tedious or enjoyable depending on how you look at it.

I would continue in this order with the - steering box, radiator, doors, windshields, gas tank, rivet in door weatherstrip channels, rivet quarter weatherstrip channels, rear quarter windows, dynamat doors, door windows and regulators, door vebt windows, steering column, master cylinder and Booster assembly, door handles, trunk lock and mechanism, trunk weatherstripping, light buckets (don't mix up the sides or your 02 will have wall-eye), horns, door handles, rear lights, signal lights, side marker lights if you still have them.

*note - the A, B, C pillars must be upholstered before the door weatherstripping can go on and the rear quarter window seal can be installed. Use a plastic pry tool, similar to a VW hubcap pry tool. Just don't use a screwdriver because you will tear the rubber.

Then heater box, dash, headliner, carpet, seat belts, seats. Each of these has a write-up somewhere in the forum.



Longwinded but that is how I would do it, as I've done it many times. The last thing you want is to have to rip up the carpet to install the wiring harness, or tear out the headliner to install dome light wiring.

Hope this helps.



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You can totally move the car without the motor in / or attached to the trans. And yes you can take the trans and motor out separately. Its just a different procedure for whichever comes out first. The trans has its own mount and as long as the car is in neutral and the parking brake is off the car will roll.

02 are ridiculous easy to work on. However, if only the trans is in the car, you might as well drop it and replace all the bits. - Throw out bearing, clutch fork and spring, pivot pin, guibo, and rebuild the shifter bushings.

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I am changing oil for my '73 2002 til - recommended oil viscosity; good oil brand out there?  Thanks

Where you live affects oil selection. Hotter climates need higher viscosity, but I always use a 50 weight oil in summer. Years ago a BMW mechanic recommended 20w50 for my e24. It is also the weight recommended in the manual. I went with his advice and have been very happy with the results. Good viscosity in hot climates and great film strength. During the winter I switch to a lower temp oil. I have used Mobil 1 20w50 in the summer (southwestern US, very very hot and dusty) in my e30 for 20 + years. The engine has over 300k miles and drives like a champ. I also do not baby my cars. I drive them hard and, as far as internals go, the straight engines love high viscosity oil.

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I found a set of 15x 6 et25 Panasports. I've read other threads, but I know availability changes often. Does anyone have any recommendations (brand, etc.) based on what is currently available in either 185/50 or 195/50? I am running stock springs, and my fenders are not rolled. Thanks 

I just drove across the country through on Toyo extensa hp's. They handled rain, ice, and snow like a champ. Great traction on dry pavement too.

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Rust free? Anyway if u want it, buy it. Doubtful you'll find another for under 20k in the next year. Consider the refresh to getting it running as part of the deal as it is standard practice when buying old cars. Ive lost out on too many cars I waffled about. If u think the car is worth it and you really want a car you're not going to modify, then spend the money.

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Do you have a good, crack free interior dome light?

Hi all,

I am looking to purchase an ignition switch for an 1969 1602. Mine is worn and starts the car in a run position. I am not sure if there is a difference between the early cars and the later cars, so I posted a picture of the connections on the one in my car. I just need the switch, not the tumbler, or key. I am thinking flat rate shipping, if it fits, it ships, since the item is so small. Let me know what you are asking.

Thanks

I figured it was a worn out switch. I bought a cheapy 4 position switch down at the parts store just to get it started and run through the circuits since all the wiring is exposed. issues. I'll hit some one up for a switch in the parts wanted section.

Thanks.

I am having a ignition switch problem of a different sort. When I turn the key to the run position the car starts, and the starter keeps cranking like I am holding the key in the start position (#4) on the ignition switch. I made sure all of the wiring is correct. I even wired in a momentary switch (push button start) between 50 on the ignition switch and and 50 on the starter solenoid. I thought i may have mixed up the wires. Rewired everything just to be sure and it still cranks in the run position. Has anybody else had this problem? Is there any adjustment like some of the older American cars, so that the tumbler triggers the switch contacts in the correct position? Understandably, I don't feel like spending $260 bucks on a  new switch.

Ok so can I use 15 inch blades on a '69 if they where originally 13" blades?

Hi Duke,

I sent you a message about the rear windshield maybe you didn't get it. My notifications always go to the spam folder. If you haven't read my message yet or didn't get it, I would like to purchase the rear windshield. We just need to set up a time. Let me know when you get a chance. If you message directly, we can exchange contact info.

Thanks,

Kaleb

Hello All,

My rear windshield is severely scratched.

 

I need to locate a VERY GOOD CONDITION rear windshield for a 1969 BMW 1602, as the front has new glass.

I am assuming the cars all have to same rear windshield with the exception of the later cars with the heated rear glass. My car does NOT have a heated rear windshield.

I am willing to drive to pick it up if located in the Southwest.

Shoot me a price and location and hopefully we can work something out.

Thanks,

Kaleb

 

Hi All,

I am looking for some good condition defroster ducts for both the left and right side. Mine are sunbaked and warped. Please let me know what conditions they are, what you are asking and cost of shipping to 79930.

Thanks,

Kaleb