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About heinemann

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  1. I got curious so I did a little research. It looks like the kit you have a has a compact master cylinder with a vertical mounting flange bolt holes separation of 2.25" and a 1.12" stroke. From the pictures anyway. Wilwood offers a tandem vertical flange mount master cylinder (same 2.25" bolt holes separation) with 1.10" stroke, which is a negligible difference.
  2. I agree the booster takes up a ridiculous amount of engine bay space. I'm wondering why the kit doesn't come with a tandem master cylinder to separate the front brakes from the rear brakes? Can the firewall mount be used with a flange mount tandem master cylinder from wilwood or any other manufacturer? Guess I'm trying to say, I wouldn't be comfortable running a single circuit master cylinder on any car - steet or race. Doesn't seem like it would be too difficult to run a tandem instead.
  3. I have a specialist components typhoon 2 ecu for sale. I ran my s54 swapped 2002 with it before converting it back to drive-by-wire. Of course, it would have to be wired and mapped for the m20 engine. It's an option if you're interested. Looking forward to updates.
  4. The powder coat on those bars is garbage anyway. You can literally scrape them with your fingernail, might as well paint them now. I'm digging the ITBs from your later post. What do you plan on using for engine management since you are eliminating the air meter? Alpha-n, or speed density?
  5. @02traditionI messaged you about the wiper arm. As for smokey burnouts. I'm currently waiting on a new computer from specialist components. Going to switch back to drive by wire and sell the drive by cable setup. Shouldn't be too much longer till I have it installed and tuned.
  6. Haven't posted in a while. Thought I'd provide a pic of the car as it sits now. Drove this junk up from Texas through New Mexico, Oklahoma, Missouri (Misery), Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, to PA. Handles beautifully, not too harsh considering the suspension spring rate. The Toyo HP's performed flawlessly when I hit a snow storm on the Penna Turnpike. You may notice I lost a wiper blade and arm, also on the turnpike. If anyone has a wiper arm with the airfoil please let me know. Waiting till spring to get the seats and door cards reupholstered, but otherwise I am super happy with the car. The thing is stupid fast.
  7. heinemann


  8. Hi David, This build thread is the most comprehensive documentation of the project. The biggest challenges are dealing with the length of the s54. I wanted it to sit farther back into the car rather than hanging out over the front crossmember. Most swap the m20 by taking out the front bulk head and rad support and hood support, which I was not willing to do. Thus is what will force you to rebuild the firewall and trans tunnel, which creates problems with the gas pedal clearance. Selling the s54 and getting an s62 might be a better option. Many issues I created for myself because I was unwilling to give up having a heater. It really depends how much you want to cut up your car. If you are going to proceed, go drive-by-wire. Getting the itbs to open like a regular car with smooth accusation has been a huge challenge. If you use the s54 air box, plan on going manual brakes and rebuilding the entire braking system. The 5 lug conversion is absolutely not worth the trouble. Just gusset the front spindles and call it good. The drag link for the crossover steering will Get into the oil pan if sticking with manual steering, so plan on clearencing it. The rear: couple options would be to swap in an e30 rear. You will need to either change body pick up points, which puts you into the rockers or change the mounts on the subframe. both options are a pain. A complete rear swap from I think garagtastic or 02Haus, I forgot who makes it is another option. It's a cool piece of kit, but imho not worth what they are asking. In fact, I think their price is absurd considering I can by two entire long arm suspension systems for my jeep for what they are asking for their rear setup. I'd spend my money elsewhere. Lastly, an e30 rear does change the track width, which can cause problems depending on wheel choice. The drive shift you can get by measuring the diff flange to guibo length, going to realoem and getting the specks from cars of similar size. Think I used one from a z3. RealOem list the lengths of the driveshafts in mm for all bmws. Just lop off the carrier bearing mounts from the trans tunnel and weld them in where the newer driveshaft requires. Also, the drive shift should be a few mm shorter than the measured length between guibo and diff flange to allow for slip in the system due to driveline flex. The transmission from the e46 M3 is big and not rebuildable. Options are to go with a 5 speed from an e36 or have an adapter made for a tremec. Many of my choices where due to budget, so that created challenges that probably could have been solved by throwing money at it. Fuel system: I baffled the gas tank and used an e30 suction unit, but using a fuel cell below the trunk floor would allow for more muffler options. Lots of trial and error is going to be normal. Waiting on parts is a huge time suck, so plan for that. Also, don't expect help from any professional bmw, 2002, or aftermarket supplier. In my experience, they will not answer your questions about how they accomplish things like 5 lug swaps, hood struts, etc. Think that's all for now. If you have other questions let me know, and post them here so others can follow. Thanks for checking out the thread. Sorry for typos, sent from my phone.
  9. Hi Spampi51, The dash is pretty good. Obvious;y, I would have liked to get a new dash, but at $1500, the price was too high. The problem I have run in to is what you choose to finish the dash with. I tried plasti dip, which was a disaster. Other options are bed liner and undercoating material, but they don't have the same texture as an original dash. It has held up; however, I do plan on getting is covered in leather eventually. Many of the choices I made were because of budget and not necessarily because they were the ideal way to go.
  10. I didn't know the blend valve could be opened up. Mine is stuck. I may have to see if its full of gunk too. I dig the match porting of the carb to the intake plenum. Nice work.
  11. After finally starting the car, there was a horrible screeching sound coming from the back off the engine. Really no way to diagnose the problem without removing the engine and transmission again. I ended up pretty much disassembling the entire car: exhaust, driveshaft, fuel lines, hoses, engine, transmission, radiator, engine wiring harness. I discovered that the shaft collar for the throw-out / release bearing was contacting the splined part of the spring pack on the clutch friction disc. I contacted gripforce clutches and they confirmed that the friction disc needs to be installed with the spring pack facing the flywheel into the recessed portion of the flywheel, which is not typical. The clutch kit only comes with generic instructions showing the spring pack of the friction disc facing away from the flywheel. After making sure that the release bearing slid freely on the collar, everything clutch related went back on the engine and torqued to spec. Getting the engine back in. My first approach was to install it form the bottom, but that was huge pain. So, I rigged the engine differently to the hoist and installed the engine from the top, and then installed the transmission from the bottom. The 10 foot steel cable was used as a safety just in case the bolt holding the engine to the chain gave way. Then, I reinstalled the driveshaft and then the exhaust... again! I ordered an O2 plug which will be installed when it arrives this week. Installing the engine this way is so much easier. Right now, I am using a cheapy parts store ignition switch to start the car, which I will swap out once I get the new part. Now, I have to clean up the wiring... again. But hey it runs! There is link below to a pretty crude video of the engine running. Dust blowing everywhere as I rev the engine. I am leaving the flares, front spoiler, and hood off or now. They will be the last things to go on the car, which should be very soon. BMW 2002 S54 Swap 480p.mov
  12. Hi all, I am looking to purchase an ignition switch for an 1969 1602. Mine is worn and starts the car in a run position. I am not sure if there is a difference between the early cars and the later cars, so I posted a picture of the connections on the one in my car. I just need the switch, not the tumbler, or key. I am thinking flat rate shipping, if it fits, it ships, since the item is so small. Let me know what you are asking. Thanks
  13. I figured it was a worn out switch. I bought a cheapy 4 position switch down at the parts store just to get it started and run through the circuits since all the wiring is exposed. issues. I'll hit some one up for a switch in the parts wanted section. Thanks.
  14. I am having a ignition switch problem of a different sort. When I turn the key to the run position the car starts, and the starter keeps cranking like I am holding the key in the start position (#4) on the ignition switch. I made sure all of the wiring is correct. I even wired in a momentary switch (push button start) between 50 on the ignition switch and and 50 on the starter solenoid. I thought i may have mixed up the wires. Rewired everything just to be sure and it still cranks in the run position. Has anybody else had this problem? Is there any adjustment like some of the older American cars, so that the tumbler triggers the switch contacts in the correct position? Understandably, I don't feel like spending $260 bucks on a new switch.
  15. Ok so can I use 15 inch blades on a '69 if they where originally 13" blades?

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