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    Astoria, NY

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  1. "Hey dude, GTFO of my thread. Go make your own if you're after a car." I saw his car come up in the thread and responded. You don't have to be rude about it. I'll mute this thread Sent from my LM-Q610(FGN) using Tapatalk
  2. How much? I want a car I can build, not a lipstick on a pig (most eBay listing), or a nice car I can't build up. Sent from my LM-Q610(FGN) using Tapatalk
  3. I got curious so I did a little research. It looks like the kit you have a has a compact master cylinder with a vertical mounting flange bolt holes separation of 2.25" and a 1.12" stroke. From the pictures anyway. Wilwood offers a tandem vertical flange mount master cylinder (same 2.25" bolt holes separation) with 1.10" stroke, which is a negligible difference.
  4. I agree the booster takes up a ridiculous amount of engine bay space. I'm wondering why the kit doesn't come with a tandem master cylinder to separate the front brakes from the rear brakes? Can the firewall mount be used with a flange mount tandem master cylinder from wilwood or any other manufacturer? Guess I'm trying to say, I wouldn't be comfortable running a single circuit master cylinder on any car - steet or race. Doesn't seem like it would be too difficult to run a tandem instead.
  5. I have a specialist components typhoon 2 ecu for sale. I ran my s54 swapped 2002 with it before converting it back to drive-by-wire. Of course, it would have to be wired and mapped for the m20 engine. It's an option if you're interested. Looking forward to updates.
  6. The powder coat on those bars is garbage anyway. You can literally scrape them with your fingernail, might as well paint them now. I'm digging the ITBs from your later post. What do you plan on using for engine management since you are eliminating the air meter? Alpha-n, or speed density?
  7. Ok, I should have clarified, while using tap talk. Thanks Sent from my LM-Q610(FGN) using Tapatalk
  8. I am having the same problem. I can't find my blog anywhere, not even in the blog archives, from dates I know I posted. When I look at my profile, none of my blog info or posts come up. Sent from my LM-Q610(FGN) using Tapatalk
  9. Suspension: 5 lug conversion, polyurethane bushings in all suspension and chassis mounting points Front - Ground Control Coilovers w/ Koni Yellow adjustable Dampers, Eibach Springs with torsion bearings, Ground Control camber plate adjusters, UUC swaybar 22mm Rear - e30 rear subframe and trailing arms with positive lock camber and toe adjusters, Koni coilovers yellow adjustable dampers, Eibach Springs, Ireland Engineering swaybar Tires: Toyo HP2 215/40r17 Rims: BBS Style 5 RC90 17x8 Sent from my LM-Q610(FGN) using Tapatalk
  10. The early ones have less weight. Differences are primarily in the bumpers, bumper shocks, door bracing for crash protection, and added gussets on the underside of the car between the rear shock towers. I'm not certain if the glass was thicker in later model cars. Many later models years have sunroofs which adds weight. The differences aside from the bumpers is negligible. Sent from my LM-Q610(FGN) using Tapatalk
  11. Any other pics? Rear? Rockers? Trunk? Floor? Does the car have the drivetrain? Sent from my LM-Q610(FGN) using Tapatalk
  12. Looks like it might be installed 180* the wrong direction. Shifter should lean slightly toward the driver when in neutral. Maybe it was the angle of the video. Sent from my LM-Q610(FGN) using Tapatalk
  13. Actually I drove is from Texas to PA and hit a blizzard in Ohio and PA last Super Sowl Sunday. I had it outside to wash it and spray Salt Terminator on the undercarriage. The car now lives in PA, but I don't drive it when the roads are salted. Sent from my LM-Q610(FGN) using Tapatalk
  14. I used these: 18-8 Stainless Steel Metric Oval Head Phillips Machine Screw, M5 Size, 12MM Length, .8MM Pitch, Packs of 50 http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=90258A249 From MacMaster-Carr Never was able to find oval head Alan drive screws, which is what I originally wanted to use. Also, regular Phillips machine screws will sit higher/proud if the chamfer in the factory turbo flares and it looks horrible. Black oxide screws will rust. I also planned to paint mine , but after installing them I liked the look, so I kept the stainless. On the body side, I used M5 stainless rivnuts/nutserts. I only use metric hardware on BMMs, except for the seatbelt bolts, which for some reason BMW uses s.a.e. hardware. Mixing hardware just seems sloppy to me. Sent from my LM-Q610(FGN) using Tapatalk
  15. Here's mine if you'd like to include it. Kaleb Sent from my LM-Q610(FGN) using Tapatalk
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