Grill

Hi all, I've read other posts but still have questions in the use of an 1983 320i 240 trans in my '68 2002. They are;

1. my driveshaft is 4/8 bolt do I need to change, what's typically done?

2. will I have a battle with the clearance and width in regards to the bodies tunnel size?

3. can I use the same rear trans crossmember as the original?

4. can I use the same cluch, P. Plate and bearing? (note that I have already upgraded my early 228mm flywheel to accept the newer P.Plate).

5. will the gear shifter locate in the center of the floor hole opening or do I have to change the mounting pieces on the trans?

6. does the conversion change the speedometer readings since I still am using the original 3.64 rear diff? any other quirks with this 5spd - 3.64 combo?

7. is it really worth doing?

Thank you all for your comments and experience!!

ps, my home computer is down (went to the library for this) so please keep responding with answers as I may not be able to get back as often as I'd like.

Thank you, I have an early '68 with the 6 bolt flywheel (which I'm converting to the latter pressure plate style clutch via new mounting holes and then rebalancing the set)...so I'll paint the smaller diameter air cleaner black - gives a little better view of the engine too.

very helpful, thanks again!

Hi, was wondering which diameter air cleaner was correct for the 1968 2002. I have several different ones around; from a 1602 (which I think is the smallest) and various 2002's (largest being from a '75). I want to sand blast, paint and install the right one.

Thank you!

I like the idea of upgrading the clutch assembly to the common 228mm style, however it is not clear what was actually modified. I don't see how a different seal can be used since the ID and OD are set. Perhaps the flywheel is modifed to accept the diffent pressure plate. Clarification is appreciated.

Thank you!

Hi, I have an early 2002 and am confused as to what clutch disc, press plate and t/o bearing to use. The dia of my disc is 228mm and my crankshaft is the 6 bolt style. Can I use the typical clutch combo or do I have to use the "exotic" odd (expensive if I can find them) set?

Any help is appreciated!

Thanks for the input, using the other body parts (hood, fender, etc) was my back up plan, so looks like plan B is the way I'll go. Thanks again.

Hi, I am replacing the front nose panel on my 1972 2002. The car was hit in the front and as such I need to position the new panel precisely. Yes, I have seen all the factory and other dimensions but none of these go from an established point on the body to any points on the nose panel!

Does anyone have a dimension from the body to the nose? There are three holes in the top of the nose panel but I have no way of knowing if these are symetricly opposite. Note that for "squaring" up the front end, one needs to use two diagonal lines to equal points, when these lines become equal on the body-panel, then the shape is square. This technique is only useable if the points used are know symetric (same left verese right).

Anyway, if anyone has battled this before, I'd appreciate any numbers. (actually, with all of the 2002 front end accidents, one would think that BMW would have this available).

Thanks to all.

OK, so my research at this point says that for 1968, green tint on all windows was an option, otherwise it was clear on all windows - could not mix green with clear on the same car. Also the rear heater was available in green as an option.

Thanks all.

Hi, yes, I want to know what is original. I will not "tint" the glass with a covering, I'm planning on using the original glass already tinted. The glass is available from BMW in clear, green or gray. I really want to know if the green option in 1968 meant that all windows were tinted or just the front (or back). The heated question is also if the rear window had a heated option in '68..

Again, I would use new glass, not putting a film over current glass.

Thanks !!

Hi, I'm preparing to finsh a Granada '68 2002 paint job and am ready to install the windshield(s). Some questions:

1. For original, can I use clear, green or blue/gray tint?

2. If I use a tint on the front, do I need to use it on the sides and/or rear?

3. Can I use a rear heated glass as original?

4. I understand that a green tint was an option, did that mean all glass came green or just the front?

Thank you for any help!!

Thank you, I have the air cleaner adapter and plan to keep it looking stock, I figure I can "splice" the hose as needed. Hope to have a faster '68 soon!

Hi, I am wanting to replace my '68 2002 engine's intake manifold with a '74 manifold (the '74 is set up with a weber carb that I want to use on my '68). Can anyone tell me if this is a direct exchange (take off '68 and bolt on '74)?

Thank you.

Thank you All for the suggestions. Upon further investigation I found that the cold start injector was constantly on, so during warm-up the idle was low because it was getting flooded with gas, apparently at some point (warm) the injector shuts off and the engine idles ok. Then when I turn the warm engine off and try to restart, the cold start injector activated again and was flooding the engine so it would not start.

The clue that pointed me in the right direction was when I pulled the air cleaner boot off of the intake and saw the mist constantly spraying (with ignition on for more than 15 sec). I then ran tests on the temp sensor which seemed to pass, likewise on the cold start injector, so I'm figuring the (temp-time) relay is bad.

As proof, I was able to start the engine cold with good idle and warm start-up by manually pulling the connector off of the cold start injector so that I controlled what the relay was supposed to do. BTW, I resoldered all of the relay internal connections with no change in results - guess a new one is in the future but at least I know how to make it work even without the relay.

Thanks again all.

Have a nice original '75 if still needed. contact me at; tculp@verizon.net

I have a good hood and a nose pretty straight but has a rust whole; in Philadelphia. e-mail me at tculp@verizon.net

excellent except for one dent in center chrome rib about 3/4", down 3"'s from the top - could be carefully tapped out. $65 + ship

Have a pair complete in fair condition and a good kidney except one dent, lites $45, all $95 + shipping.

Have a good one from a '74.

are you interested in the whole diff?

Thank you, I was hoping that my specific quirks (low cold idle and hard hot starts) may be a specific item since they are quite repeatable. .

I'm surprised, I would have guessed they were black under coat, but thank you!!

Hi, I recently purchased a '72 2002tii which I have for a long time desired. There are two problems that I hope are related and fimiliar to some of you guys, they are;

1. The car starts pretty easily, but then doesn't want to idle at all until say the third start - but then it idles very low; about 2-300rpm. However, once the car is warmed up, the idle is fine.

2. Once warm everything seems fine (idle, response, etc) but if I turn the engine off, it will not restart unless I run the starter for a long time (something I really don't like to do).

Any help and suggestions are greatly appreciated!

Hi, I'm preparing to repaint my '68 2002 and would like to know if the original car had the inside of the fenders and rear wheel wells painted body color. Thank you.

Hi, have a decent early nose (does have a rust hole,but pretty straight) in Pa but often go to east Tn. Tom

Hi, see my ad for '70 2000 trunk lid, pass door, etc. Tom